archive.org has a copy of the page from 2009.
archive.org has a copy of the page from 2009.
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Hi Mike 121 Which oil did you go with in the end. I ordered 2 traps from
I suppose they will come with an instruction but they havent arrived yet and I curious what you found the best. Also is this the style trap you have? If it's not do you have a link to the type of trap you use. I only have one hive right now but will have 4 soon. I saw a hive beetle last time I checked ny hive. I ordered the traps as soon as I saw but I'm worried the damage will come quick. I'd appreciate any insight. Thanks, Virginia
I've used similar traps. Soy surf works the best in them. Since it takes longer for it to evaporate. I suggest if you are a hobbiest get one. When you do see the beetles in a hive. Go through the hive, flip the brood chambers, and set it on the trap for a day. Usually the bees get aggresive and chase beetles and they fall into the trap or any other trap you have in the hive. Then put the hive back in its origanal state. Then you can conserve and recycle the oil you will use. Bottom board oil traps can get expensive when you start multiplying hives. Hope this helps.
I have 60 screen bb with the oil tray . What is the cost of the hive of bees ,wax and honey if the shb takes the hive????? Good luck rock
Hey rock your exactly right. The cost of the hive itself is worth having. Here in Ms. we have problems with raccoons. When using the oil traps we must strap the hives down with ratchet straps. They will flip the hives over to get to the oil. I usually had to pull the pans out every two to three weeks filter the oil because of the waste in the hive. With hundreds of hives this is not practical. I started in desperate times just having them set to the side in a yard. In case of a infestation, I would put a hive on the oil trap for few hours previously aggitating the bees. Thus getting the bees to chase the beetles down into the trap. Now all I use is baited jewel cd cases costing about a dollar per hive per quarter year. I do spray my neighboring beekeeper empty yards with permethran because of there beetle breeding hives from last year. He lost 22 hives out of 24 to beetles. Gave me the other two. They are a destructive pest. Oil traps, beetle jails, treatments, baited traps, or whatever else can kill them I like it if it works.
What bait do you put in the cd case traps? I'm leary to put roach killing stuff near the bees but I've seen some good feedback on them.
I'd appreciate any insights. I'm going to try 2 oil traps in the bottom board. I haven't received them yet. I checked the hive this weekend. I didn't see any beetles. I also ordered some little oil traps that connect on the frames from brushy mountain. http://www.brushymountainbeefarm.com...oductinfo/647/
still waiting for them as well. I've seen videos of beetle infestations it was quite disturbing. Want to prevent them from messing with my hives. Virginia Wolf
The lure I'm using now is Russell's beetle juice. All natural besides the pollen sub. Before I was using pollen sub. fermented with honey. The beetle juice works better. You can use any approved kill agent mixed with the lure or without. You will catch and kill beetles. Have you had beetles in the past? Here in the south where they are strong they are the biggest pain. I have completely irradicated the beetles in my hives before the season started. Just a few can slime a hive in just 3 days. They are the worst pest you can have as a beekeeper. Again I'm not completely against the oil traps. I just think there is a better way. My way may not be the best for you.
Where can I get Russell's beetle juice?
Russell's web page
website for russell apiaries is
Thank you very much. That was not easy to find with Google.
Check a local farm store that carries livestock feed. I recently bought a 50lb bag of it for about $50.00.
Be sure to get food grade diatomaceous earth. There is a type of DE that is used in swimming pool filters. This will not work! It has been heated and it's structure has been modified. Food grade should also indicate that NO harmful chemicals have been added.
Everything I have read says not to use the swimming pool grade DE. It has been heat and chemical treated. It may still kill insect pests but according to some sites I have read, it is harmful or toxic to humans and animals.
I bought food grade DE from a farm store that sells it as a livestock food additive.
I am very careful applying it around my hive. I don't want to have any DE dust picked up by a breeze and get blown into the hive. I'm sure it is just as bad for the bees as it is for the hated hive beetle.
Oh, and the DE that is sold as an insecticide may also contains other chemicals including insecticides.
Food grade DE is 100% DE.
Last edited by TonyC; 03-25-2011 at 08:35 PM.