Quick question about Formic Acid Pads

[GRIMBEE]

Are you suppose to use the inner cover when using Formic? Or do you take them out and just use top cover?

[Ian]

you need to allow air space over thepad for them to work efficiently. They suggest a rim of some sort and spacers under the pads themselves

[GRIMBEE]

I have the spacers under the pads. And I have the shims to keep the pad from getting mashed.
I was just curious if the air flow from the top cover vent would make the formic not work as efficient. The DVD shows no inner being used.

[Ravenseye]

Doesn't matter much. I leave my inner covers on. Many others don't. Your choice. After the first few days, it won't matter much since your pads will have lost some of their potency.

[GRIMBEE]

The DVD was very specific. It was free from Mann Lake, no inner cover for ventilation, only bottom entrance, and they duck taped the gaps inbetween the boxes. Also I don't think they used screened bottoms which I have on my hives.

[Ravenseye]

They're shooting for perfect space and, if you can do it, it's worth it. My inner covers had no notch so the ventilation is less than perfect. My first year with formic was a disaster. I think I got the colony too tight. Now, I treat like all other treatments, that being a step along the way of pest management.

[winevines]

The DVD was very specific. It was free from Mann Lake, no inner cover for ventilation, only bottom entrance, and they duck taped the gaps inbetween the boxes. Also I don't think they used screened bottoms which I have on my hives.

Do you have a verdict on Screened bottom boards and mite away II? Do you leave them open or put in a mite tray in an attempt to close them up?

[GRIMBEE]

I keep the screened bottom boards closed up for the full effect, but I did not duct tape the boxes. The bees do that with bee-glue anyway

[dickm]

Instructions say leave them open. I suspect this to be more important in warm temps.

dickm

[winevines]

Instructions say leave them open. I suspect this to be more important in warm temps.

dickm

NOD apiaries just told me on the phone

Open tub outside
CLOSE up SBB
Open up entrance all the way
Seal any top entrances
Seal any cracks

[winevines]

Instructions say leave them open. I suspect this to be more important in warm temps.

dickm

NOD apiaries just told me on the phone to CLOSE up SBB

[GRIMBEE]

As I figured, you only keep the bottom entrance open. The bees are in control of moving the formic fumes around.
By the way the bad hive on day 3 had uncountable amounts of Varroa on the SSB The formic is working very well and I don't see piles of dead bees so I am happy

[bleta12]

As I figured, you only keep the bottom entrance open. The bees are in control of moving the formic fumes around.
By the way the bad hive on day 3 had uncountable amounts of Varroa on the SSB The formic is working very well and I don't see piles of dead bees so I am happy

I would give that colony a some feeding after you take the FA.

Gilman

[winevines]

What about respirators used when first putting formic acid pad on? Seems like a requirement in the US but not in Canada. In the US they want you to use a special pesticide respirator- not just a dinky one.

What do folks use or not?

THANKS

[dickm]

I have a respirator but it came off pretty fast. I suggest you keep a smoker lit so you can work upwind of the hive. Rubber gloves I don't skimp on. You could contaminat your leather ones but the bees won't like them ever again.

dickm

[xC0000005]

I used the respirator with the pesticide & organic vapor cartridge (the one from the mite away instructions) and was glad. That is some POWERFUL stuff. I used the respirator when taking the pads off, too but that was probably not necessary.

[GRIMBEE]

I did not use a respirator(Don't tell on me) for my 3 hives. I just held my breath when I was opening the formic and placing it. I did not have any problems with my eyes, nose, or throat. And anyone who reads my posts knows I use nirtile latex throw away gloves for inspections.

[jams bees]

According to the manufacturer the hive should be well sealed; no holes or other entrances. This would include the upper entrance on the inner cover. All of the treatments which rely on vaporization, whether thymol based or acid based, count on the bees moving air through the hive to distribute the vapors throughout the hive. Any extra holes reduces the concentration and therefore the efficacy of the treatment.

From the mitegone website;
FOR BEST RESULTS:
· Bottom boards must be solid and drain-holes must be sealed.
.
· Top entrances and auger holes must be closed. Use carpets or plastic under wooden
inner cover to seal the top.
· Only colonies of the same strength and “housing” can use the same treatment.
· The hive must be full of bees to maintain evaporating temperature and humidity.
· Bees in clusters or four frames of bees in 2 otherwise empty boxes cannot be treated
successfully.
· Move weak colonies into singles or nukes.

from the Mite-Away website;

Seal all holes in the hive except the bottom hive entrance, which needs to be fully open for the entire duration of treatment. Entrance reducers MUST be removed to prevent excessive damage to the colonies. Treat all bee colonies in the apiary at the same time. Allow a minimum of one month between applications.