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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Limestone Co, Alabama
    Posts
    1,674

    Thumbs down new tricks for an old dog.

    I want to get into bees again. Always fascinated by them. I never “owned” any bees by myself I just helped family.

    Questions: Besides the obvious benefits of lining up easier and straighter when you nail/screw the corners of the boxes what is the expert opinion of those reading this post of finger locked corners, verses rabbeted ones?

    If good wood screws are used with strong cement on the wood and hardware on both type corners what is the down side to each type, the up side? Am 61 years old and I am only planning to use these boxes for another 40 years or so.

    Hear…uh, read many people discing plastic frames and foundation, what is the opinion of the experts, ie. people who have used them both for a significant period. Remember, I live in a wax moth area.

    Once you wanted your hives shaded by hardwood trees part of the day. What is the recommendation now that we have to fight SHB, mites, viruses etc.? I hear full Sun. What do you think of only using a screened moving cover under a telescoping top cover in our Alabama Summers? What about screened moving covers in the Winters and covering the inner cover screens with clean newspapers for the Winter months? Would this knockdown some condensation? Could SHB and wax moth still enter through the top of the hive???:confused:

    I retired early on total disability. I properly need to hoist a few boxes of bees to see if I can get a nuc off the ground. What is your opinion of 8-frame woodenware? How much does a full (brood & stores) 9 5/8” 8 frame hive body weigh? A 6 5/8” inch 8-frame medium full hives body. With 8 capped frames of honey?

    Don’t worry your widdle heads people, I will do what I think best, I just need some input folks. I know I once could have walked off with two 9 5/8” full
    10-frame supers less the tenants, I’ll never see those days again. I am not sure I even miss them.

    Good luck.
    Scrapfe---Never believe anything in politics until it has been officially denied.--Otto von Bismarck.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Venango/Crawford Pennsylvania
    Posts
    1,709

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Scrapfe View Post

    Questions: Besides the obvious benefits of lining up easier and straighter when you nail/screw the corners of the boxes what is the expert opinion of those reading this post of finger locked corners, verses rabbeted ones?

    If good wood screws are used with strong cement on the wood and hardware on both type corners what is the down side to each type, the up side? Am 61 years old and I am only planning to use these boxes for another 40 years or so.

    Hear…uh, read many people discing plastic frames and foundation, what is the opinion of the experts, ie. people who have used them both for a significant period. Remember, I live in a wax moth area.

    .

    I myself have use both and like the finger locking. After awhile the rabbeted ones would working loose and were not keeping square. Might have just been me...back in the 60's and 70's, but I like the finger joints better.
    I nail and don't glue my hives. Glue is a chemical that my bees don't need.
    Never used plastic, I like natural things for them. Plastic is what?...it is a Chemical bi-product.... and I did see one guy selling all his plastic frames...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Sacramento,California,USA
    Posts
    3,660

    Default

    I use 8 frame deeps, much better to manage than the 10 framers, but if I had it to do over again, I'd be using 8 frame mediums instead! Check Michael Bush's website for weights of the different sized boxes to use at http://www.bushfarms.com/bees.htm.

    Hive beetles and wax moths both can enter the hives no matter where the openings are. The best defense is very populous hives and bees love to be crowded.
    “When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world.” – John Muir

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Sparta, Tennessee
    Posts
    2,136

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    I have built many a box using rough cut pine from the local saw mill, by butt-ending. I plane them, glue them, clamp, drill and screw (at least screws in all corners) and nails in the center. Now I dip them in Paraffin and Rosin and so far they are holding up just fine. I don't profess to be a woodworker, nor ever want to be. But, when I can get inexpensive lumber and save much $ on building my own boxes, I do.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Devils Lake, North Dakota
    Posts
    9,123

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    Quote Originally Posted by RayMarler View Post
    I use 8 frame deeps, much better to manage than the 10 framers, but if I had it to do over again, I'd be using 8 frame mediums instead! Check Michael Bush's website for weights of the different sized boxes to use at http://www.bushfarms.com/bees.htm.

    Hive beetles and wax moths both can enter the hives no matter where the openings are. The best defense is very populous hives and bees love to be crowded.
    I agree and have switched to 8 frame........ I wish I'd have
    done it from the start. I use 1 deep and 1 medium for brood.
    But I agree with MB and Ray here......... go with all mediums
    8 frame.

    And box/finger joint is good.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Limestone Co, Alabama
    Posts
    1,674

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    Yes, I found that link after I posted the above request. Thanks everyone for replying and good luck.
    Scrapfe---Never believe anything in politics until it has been officially denied.--Otto von Bismarck.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    282

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sundance View Post
    I agree and have switched to 8 frame........ I wish I'd have
    done it from the start. I use 1 deep and 1 medium for brood.
    But I agree with MB and Ray here......... go with all mediums
    8 frame.

    And box/finger joint is good.
    So you would use 3 mediums for the hive body and mediums to super? Am starting to look into woodenware and would like to be able to have the same frames for all.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Sacramento,California,USA
    Posts
    3,660

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    I would use 3 mediums for brood until the bee populations got high, then would cut it back to 2, with supers added for maximimum honey production. I'm figuring that 2 medium 8 frames should be close to the same as 1 deep 10 frame. Yes, all medium 8 framers for both hive body and supers.

    But alass, I've got many deep 8 frame boxes and even more deep frames for those boxes, and will not be going thru the expense and work to change over to mediums anytime soon.
    “When one tugs at a single thing in nature, he finds it attached to the rest of the world.” – John Muir

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Devils Lake, North Dakota
    Posts
    9,123

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RayMarler View Post
    I've got many deep 8 frame boxes and even more deep frames for those boxes, and will not be going thru the expense and work to change over to mediums anytime soon.
    Like a fool I changed my mind (partly for health) to go with
    8 frame after buying 200 ea 10 frame deep unassembled
    boxes!!

    Gonna have to sell them off.......

    Next year I just may cut down the deeps and run all medium
    8 frame. It's not that hard with a table saw. Even the frames
    cut down nice with the right blade (plywood).

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