I want to get into bees again. Always fascinated by them. I never “owned” any bees by myself I just helped family.
Questions: Besides the obvious benefits of lining up easier and straighter when you nail/screw the corners of the boxes what is the expert opinion of those reading this post of finger locked corners, verses rabbeted ones?
If good wood screws are used with strong cement on the wood and hardware on both type corners what is the down side to each type, the up side? Am 61 years old and I am only planning to use these boxes for another 40 years or so.
Hear…uh, read many people discing plastic frames and foundation, what is the opinion of the experts, ie. people who have used them both for a significant period. Remember, I live in a wax moth area.
Once you wanted your hives shaded by hardwood trees part of the day. What is the recommendation now that we have to fight SHB, mites, viruses etc.? I hear full Sun. What do you think of only using a screened moving cover under a telescoping top cover in our Alabama Summers? What about screened moving covers in the Winters and covering the inner cover screens with clean newspapers for the Winter months? Would this knockdown some condensation? Could SHB and wax moth still enter through the top of the hive???:confused:
I retired early on total disability. I properly need to hoist a few boxes of bees to see if I can get a nuc off the ground. What is your opinion of 8-frame woodenware? How much does a full (brood & stores) 9 5/8” 8 frame hive body weigh? A 6 5/8” inch 8-frame medium full hives body. With 8 capped frames of honey?
Don’t worry your widdle heads people, I will do what I think best, I just need some input folks. I know I once could have walked off with two 9 5/8” full
10-frame supers less the tenants, I’ll never see those days again. I am not sure I even miss them.