Swarm Traps & Obstinate Bees

[Grant]

I posted this above in the "Forum" but thought those more interested in pictures might also look here.

I had two swarms that wouldn't go into the swarm trap, but rather chose to build underneath the trap.

One swarm I vaccuumed off and transferred to a hive body, the other one I smoked the bees away from the comb, scraped the comb free and forced them into the swarm trap.

Every year I get a couple of these. here's the link:

http://www.swarmpics.homestead.com

Grant
Jackson, MO

[JoeMcc]

http://www.swarmpics.homestead.com

Grant
Jackson, MO

Wow... interesting.

Thank you for sharing!

JoeMcc

[Zane]

Grant, thank you for the pics and story. It looks like your still getting swarms around there to get. I like your idea on attaching the box to the tree. Do you just notch a board on the box and slide it onto the nail in the tree?

[Grant]

There are more pictures of alternative traps at:

www.feralhoneybees.homestead.com

I prefer the six-frame nuc box. The "hanger" is a 1x4" board that is probably 8" taller than the trap is high. I screw it to the side of the trap with simple dry-wall screws, coarse threaded. In that section that sticks up above the trap, I drill a 1" hole toward the top.

I went to my local True Value Hardware store and bought 60-penny nails. They're about six inches long and very sturdy. I drive the nails into a tree and hang the trap through the 1" hole.

Most of my traps are 8 to 10 feet off the ground. In some of the uneven ground and ravines, where a ladder is not safely balanced, I'll hang them at shoulder height. So far, height is not a strong determining factor as I catch swarms equally at both heights.

Grant
Jackson, MO