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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    El Dorado County, CA
    Posts
    605

    Default

    thanks for the reply. mine sure is a big piece of equipment for only spinning two frames at a time.
    all that is gold does not glitter

  2. #22
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Cedar Bluff, Virginia, USA
    Posts
    141

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by min79854 View Post
    oops...sorry,..........Thanks for your input...it gives me hope.....Today, I called a couple of sandblasting places, and I received one "ball park estimate" over the phone, with the coatings and all of around 500.00!!! I almost fainted!!! Does this seem reasonable? I could buy a new 2 frame extractor for that much!!!! I think that maybe the guy didn't really know what I was talking about, but if anyone has any idea of how much it would cost....for real.....I would appreciate it....Or, maybe I could just rent a sandblasting machine and do it myself....Input PLEASE.............Again, what I have is an old 2 frame motorized extractor....galvanized tank and very rusty gears and brake..... Thanks again everyone........Min
    Lord you could buy a compressor the sandblaster and everything you need for that price. This is just an idea but if there is a vocational school near by that teaches auto body you may want to inquire if they have a sand blaster and just pay for a night class and do it. I know the classes are pretty resonable like 65 bucks around here and other then that all your out is your materials plus you have teacher present to lend some knowledge if you have any problems. One other thing if there are any holes in the galvinized tank make sure they are patched by someone who knows what they are doing as welding or cutting will produce very toxic fumes.

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    owensboro,ky
    Posts
    2,240

    Smile rust

    get one of those wire wheels sold at hardware stores to chuck up in a hand drill and just do it yourself. as you have found, proffessional labor and equipment is quick and easy but is VERY costly. home labor is slow,hard, and free. AS HAS BEEN WIDELY RUMORED, THERE IS NO FREE LUNCH! good luck,mike
    "Wine is a constant proof that God loves us and loves to see us happy" Ben Franklin

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Plant City,Florida,USA
    Posts
    21

    Default

    More about the extractor..... Well, with the help of WD-40 I've gotten everything loosened up...But; I cannot get the spinning part out...I've disconnected the bolts that hold the top apparatus on, so I thought that all I would need to do is lift it out...I was wrong...I noted that there was a tightening type of bolt down at the bottom, so I got that out...still, I can't get the darned unit out...Does anyone have a clue as to what I am talking about? Please help....Thanks, Min

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Cooperstown,N.Y.
    Posts
    474

    Default

    Not sure I can help with that...I thought they lift out...I'd pull harder.

    But I seem to remember someone on here saying that you could remove rust with a battery charger using electrolysis. I always wondered...anybody try it?

    Good Luck

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Red Bluff, Ca
    Posts
    301

    Default

    Mine sets in a bearing others I have seen have a bushing in the bottom of the extractor or a short shaft that the reel fits over .
    Dan

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Greenville, TX, USA
    Posts
    4,416

    Default

    Try a local body shop. Maybe someone wants some weekend work. PB Blaster and Kroil are both good penetrating oils. WD-40 is not a penetrating oil.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Plant City,Florida,USA
    Posts
    21

    Default Still working on the old extractor....and another question..

    Well, I hung the extractor from a chain, sprayed penetrating oil around the spindle in the bottom of the tank, and worked it until I lost my patients...then took a hammer to it...down it dropped! Here's the question; in the place where the spindle sat, are a bunch of ballbearings...does anyone know if that spindle had the bearings on the bottom of it, or do the bearings sit down in that sprocket? I guess I have to clean out that area where the ballbearings are, and figure out which way to go to replace it. Sorry if I'm not clear on this.... How do I replace the bearings? Any help would be appreciated... By the way, as someone suggested in a reply eariler, I went to Harbor Freight and bought the media blaster. I think that should do the trick...Thanks. Now that I basically have the thing all apart, it's just a matter of getting the time to work on getting it cleaned up.. Another question comes to mind; after the clean-up, do I seal just the seams, or the entire inside of the tank? Thanks, Min

  9. #29
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Concord, CA
    Posts
    4,191

    Default

    On many older things the bearings are greased & just sit in the lower race. The upper part you're drum might just ride on the bearings.
    I don't know if thats the case with you're machine.

    Glad the blaster worked for you.

    Dan

  10. #30
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Plant City,Florida,USA
    Posts
    21

    Default

    Thanks for the help....I'll more than likely be posting more questions as I go along here....Didn't do anything with it today...took a ride over to the other coast to watch the shuttle launch....very cool! Min

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