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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Cuyahoga Falls, Ohio USA
    Posts
    312

    Default How many 10 frame deeps you using for Italian bees?

    Hello

    It woud seem that my Italian bees are REALLY taking off. Much more so then my Russians or Carns. This the 1st day of May and the Italians are working their way into a 3rd deep 10 frame already. Is this common for Italians or are mine just supper productive?

    thx

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Pasco, Wa.
    Posts
    109

    Default

    Same issue here. My packages are 2 days shy of 3 wks old. They're sucking down 3 qts each of 1:1 every 4 days now, and bringing in tons of pollen. Lots of activity on all but the 1 and 10 frames last check. Tomorrow I'll check them again. In anticipation, have two deeps with foundation installed, ready if needed. Not sure if this is the norm or not.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Grifton, NC
    Posts
    1,302

    Default

    I like 2 deeps and as many honey supers as they will fill. 2 deeps gives you plenty of bees and options for splitting or reversing.
    Banjos and bees... how sweet it is!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Pepperell, MA.
    Posts
    3,772

    Default

    Two deeps.
    "My wife always wanted girls. Just not thousands and thousands of them......"

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Massillon, Ohio
    Posts
    3,440

    Default

    Two deeps for brood, and move frames of honey out or up to the third deep when they start getting crowded.
    To everything there is a season....

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Sawyer, Michigan, USA
    Posts
    2,115

    Default

    One of the distinct advantages of Italians is there ability to build comb, I normally keep them in two deeps but some are so explosive that I give them three deeps. And keep a close eye on them for adding surplus supers, and start counting the money.

    By the same token they will need more food reserves going into winter than NWCs or Russians because they will keep larger winter clusters. The Italians that come threw the winter are usually the first to give me surplus honey for my area that is usually the first week of July.
    The Busy Bee teaches two lessons: One is not to be idle and the other is not to get stung.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Auger Hole, MN
    Posts
    433

    Default one variation

    is keep them in two deeps and put an exlcuder on when they need more room to lay. put an empty deep on top before dandelions.

    move frames of CAPPED brood above the excluder into the center of that upper deep and replaced with empty comb in the brood nest. let the brood frames upstairs hatch out and be back filled with honey. this can go on until late june then you should not need to be moving brood frames upstairs.

    a little labor intensive but you get max honey production- even in northern WI there is no need for more then 2 deeps to over winter.

    in mid sept pull your crop and treat if you treat. if the hive has too many bees to fit into 2 deeps move it during day flying hours and leave the old foragers behind. they are not needed during winter if you have plenty of brood (winter bees) ready to hatch. you can't do this move too late in sept or you run into problems.

    many migratory beeks pick up their bees and leave in midday in fall with the same intentions. Italians tend to go into winter in good years with too many bees. they eat a lot of honey.

    go russians they are not so goofy when it comes to laying into late fall.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Greenville, TX, USA
    Posts
    4,410

    Default

    None, I'm all mediums.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    46,591

    Default

    When I used deeps.... I would use at least two. A good queen will fill those with brood.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sacramento Ca
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bud Dingler View Post
    is keep them in two deeps and put an exlcuder on when they need more room to lay. put an empty deep on top before dandelions.

    move frames of CAPPED brood above the excluder into the center of that upper deep and replaced with empty comb in the brood nest. let the brood frames upstairs hatch out and be back filled with honey. this can go on until late june then you should not need to be moving brood frames upstairs.

    a little labor intensive but you get max honey production- even in northern WI there is no need for more then 2 deeps to over winter.

    in mid sept pull your crop and treat if you treat. if the hive has too many bees to fit into 2 deeps move it during day flying hours and leave the old foragers behind. they are not needed during winter if you have plenty of brood (winter bees) ready to hatch. you can't do this move too late in sept or you run into problems.

    many migratory beeks pick up their bees and leave in midday in fall with the same intentions. Italians tend to go into winter in good years with too many bees. they eat a lot of honey.

    go russians they are not so goofy when it comes to laying into late fall.
    Instead of tossing these bees away like that you can use this to your advantage and split the hive after the main honey flow. That way you have young queens in spring,(cuts down on swarming). two strong built up hives for next years honey flow, or sale them next spring as nucs.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona, USA
    Posts
    5,408

    Default

    No deeps, no 10-frame, but many of my colonies, of Italians, are in six and seven, medium, 8-frame supers.
    48 years - 50 hives - TF
    Joseph Clemens -- Website Under Constructioni

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