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Thread: Trap Out

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    PA
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    Default Trap Out

    I started this on another thread but I still have some questions. I installed a screen cone on what I felt was the main entrance of a colony that has been in the second story walls of a house for at least 20 years. The kitchen addition on the back of this house allows me to place a bait hive next to the cone. I caulked what I felt were all of the other entrances (wrong). I didn't place a brood and eggs comb in the bait hive at first. Just old comb. I was advised to do this and last evening did so. This afternoon the bait hive is boiling with bees and more are still pouring out the cone (and it seems another found entrance). Should I remove this hive and place another in it's place with a brood and eggs comb? If I continued to do this a few times will I weaken the existing hive to the point that the queen will eventually leave? Any advice?

  2. #2
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    May 2007
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    morehead city, nc, usa
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    Default

    I don't know anything about trap-outs but I'd sure like to have that queen! 20 years...think about it.

  3. #3
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    Lift the top and see how many frames are covered with bees. If 7 or more, yes, switch hives. I have gotten as high as 4 hives and a nuc from one trapout. Keep it up until it is empty and wait at least a week after the last bee comes out. Then remove the cone and allow the hive colony to rob the cavity out before taking the last box home.

  4. #4
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    Iddee,

    Will they (or should they) raise their own queens?

  5. #5
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    They will make queen cells from the eggs you give them.

  6. #6
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    Jun 2003
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    Grifton, NC
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    Default

    So what do you plan to do with all the honey, dead larvae, vermin and detritus that are left behind when you remove the bees and seal everything up?

    I doubt you'll succeed in removing the queen unless you go in and find her and catch her. She'll likely die in there before she would leave.
    Banjos and bees... how sweet it is!

  7. #7
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    Default

    >>>So what do you plan to do with all the honey, dead larvae, vermin and detritus that are left behind when you remove the bees and seal everything up?<<<<<

    Read my post.

    >>>Then remove the cone and allow the hive colony to rob the cavity out before taking the last box home.<<<

    The queen ceases to lay when the flow stops coming in. There will be little or no brood in about 3, maybe 4 weeks. The last box of bees will call the box their home within 3 days of the last bee coming out. The queen will abscond when the food is gone. She may not go into your box, but she will leave, and take the few remaining bees with her.Wax will be the biggest thing left, with maybe some pollen. Neither will make much of a mess.

  8. #8
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    Nov 2005
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    PA
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    Iddee,

    Thanks for the information. We are in for a big temperature change over the weekend. I am a little leary about pulling this first box because it is to be down in the 30's the next few nights and the population in the new box may not be strong enough to cover the brood frame.

  9. #9
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    Greensboro, N.C.
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    Good decision. The box will hold many more bees than you would think. Besides, there won't be many added to it when the temps are in the 30's.

    I posted this link on the other trap question, but you might want to look at it, too.

    http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j2...e/TRAP%20OUTS/

  10. #10
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    Nov 2005
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    Default

    Do you make you own cones?

  11. #11
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    Yes, from 1/8th inch wire. Normal screen is too soft and will collapse and stop up. 1/4 inch, and the bees will walk right through it. I make different size cones for different jobs. My preference is approx. 10 inches long. I have used 6 inch all the way to two foot.

  12. #12

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    I am just guessing that the end is of the cone is a 1/4 inch opening right. Like your Idea
    My-smokepole

  13. #13
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    Default

    I try to make the exit hole large enough for two drones to exit at the same time.

  14. #14
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    Jun 2007
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    melvin,mi
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    hey iddee I got a trapout coming up here shortly. can i put one frame of eggs or day old brood and maybe one frame of sealed honey in the trap? then put the rest with new foundation.

  15. #15
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    You can put one frame containing eggs and any other combination you want. I would be afraid of guessing one day old larva. With eggs, you know you have 3 days minimum for them to start queen cells.

  16. #16
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    Jun 2007
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    melvin,mi
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    yes i plan on bring some eggs. one more thing how long will the eggs last in the car temps 50-60 here this is going to be 60 mile trip for me, im hoping it will warm up this next weekend and get back in the 70.

  17. #17
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    Warm up the car before starting. Try to install the trap 30 min. prior to the warmest part of the day. Postpone it if the bees aren't flying. You need a few hundred bees exiting the cone the first hour, a thousand or more before night.

  18. #18
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    Jun 2007
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    Default

    ok will do thanks

  19. #19
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    Feb 2008
    Location
    Pasco, Wa.
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    Default Brood with nurse bees?

    I've read about trap-outs until I'm blue in the face. Think I get the jist of it. One thing (1st yr beek here). When donating the frame of eggs/brood, do you shake off the nurse bees from that frame...or add them as well to the bait hive.

    Thanks! and Thanks esp. to Iddee!

    Chris
    Tricities, Wa.

  20. #20
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    Nov 2004
    Location
    West Newton, Pa.
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    Default

    Leave the nurse bees on the frame when you insert it into the hive. They are accustomed to taking care of the larvae that are on the frame and will continue to do so until there are more bees from the trap out in the box.

    I just finished a trap out last week and ended up with two full deep box hives complete with new queens for each.
    Be Yourself, Everyone Else Is Taken!

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