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Thread: table saw blade

  1. #21
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    Aug 2006
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    Pittsburgh PA
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    I am just starting out in woodworking, a complete novice. I will make so many mistakes and learn from them. I don't wan't to spend too much on a blade only to see it ruined by my stupidity. I think I'll go with freud 1060X 40$ should be good enough to learn

    I cleaned the top with some wd40 now it looks much better. the fence moves smooth too.. I have downloaded the manual from grizzly.com have to micro adjust the fence who knows it may work out great after fine tuning..

    It feels great to learn new things in life!
    There is no greater satisfaction than the satisfaction of a job well done.

  2. #22
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    Feb 2008
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    Reno, NV USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by MapMan View Post
    I have a couple of the Forrest Woodworker II blades, they are maybe 8.25/10. I'd rate the Tenryu GM25540 higher at 9.5/10 and Freud P410 about 8.75/10. I have only tried the Infinity 010-044 on someone else's machine - it was very smooth, though.

    Freud also makes a very affordable 8" dado stack - the SD208, which is very good for the money with excellent square bottom cuts ~$80-100. For starting out, you don't need a 10" dado set.
    A 10" stacked dado set may be a bit much for a 10" saw with a relatively small motor. It's nice having the extra rim speed of the larger blades, but there is a substantial amount of added torque with the increased radius. Besides hogging out 3/4" dados in hard wood which can strain a 2HP motor, the capacitor has to work pretty hard to get all that steel moving. I agree that an 8" dado set would be appropriate. A Delta Unisaw or Powermatic #66 (or similar) with 5HP motors are commonly fitted with 8" dado sets.
    Fine Woodworking (Taunton Press) has reviewed many blades over the years and may be a good reference source. Forrest Blades have scored very high over the years with their dado set getting mutiple awards.

  3. #23
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    Apr 2003
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    Greenville, TX, USA
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    I run nothing but Forrest blades. I have a couple of WWIIs for the table saw, WWI for the radial arm, and a Dado King set. I have nothing but good things to say about them. If I need to rip rough or dirty lumber, I throw on a 20 tooth Freud that cost $24.

  4. #24
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    Feb 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ross View Post
    I run nothing but Forrest blades. I have a couple of WWIIs for the table saw, WWI for the radial arm, and a Dado King set. I have nothing but good things to say about them. If I need to rip rough or dirty lumber, I throw on a 20 tooth Freud that cost $24.
    Same for me. I have dado stacks 8" for my table saw and 12" for the radial arm plus several WWI and WWII's. I even broke down and purchase a no melt for plastic. I purchased Forrest blades when I read how they left minimal kerf marks. I found this to be true. Once in awhile, on a reactive board, I might have to use the cabinet scraper, but not too often. I worked as a cabinet maker when I was young, and never developed a love for sanding.

  5. #25
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    May 2007
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    Hillsboro, Wisconsin, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVH View Post
    Same for me. I have dado stacks 8" for my table saw and 12" for the radial arm plus several WWI and WWII's. I even broke down and purchase a no melt for plastic. I purchased Forrest blades when I read how they left minimal kerf marks. I found this to be true. Once in awhile, on a reactive board, I might have to use the cabinet scraper, but not too often. I worked as a cabinet maker when I was young, and never developed a love for sanding.
    Forrest WW blades are fine, I like them, and have splurged on several of them. Heck, I used A WWII just an hour ago, making hive covers. However, I think that other manufacturers have gone past them in newer technology, such as friction coatings, dampening and expansion slots. I really notice the coatings difference when cutting pine - the pitch doesn't build up on my Freud. And it doesn't burn maple or cherry as easily as the WWII. But the Forrest has remained sharper longer than any of my other blades, but only after the first resharpening - I think that it wasn't as sharp as it could be from the manufacturer.

    Forrest has been the leader in premium blades for years, but I think they have been reactive to new technology rather than proactive. Again, I like their blades, only I think that they have to get some new technology into their designs, and reduce their price a bit. Otherwise, they are going to take a competitive hit from Freud and Tenryu.

    I agree - I hardly ever sand - once you get the technique going with a scraper plane and cabinet scrapers, the sandpaper just sits on the shelf. I love not having to breath dust.

    MM

  6. #26
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    Apr 2003
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    Greenville, TX, USA
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    Yep, I have quite a collection of scrapers, from card stock to #80s, #12s, #112s. They all have their place. We talk about old tools and machinery of all types on my forum at Wood Magazine. Stop in for a visit.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Petroleum,WV,USA
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    1

    Default Moving bee hive

    What is the downside of moving a bee hive to a new location?

  8. #28
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    Aug 2002
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    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
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    46,120

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    >What is the downside of moving a bee hive to a new location?

    Bees drifting back to the old location.

    http://www.bushfarms.com/beesmoving.htm
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Berkey, OH, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Malson View Post
    What is the downside of moving a bee hive to a new location?
    They get posted in the wrong thread

  10. #30
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    Mar 2007
    Location
    Paw Paw, IL
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    75

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    I know something that will make your table saw smoke a lot. Putting in your blade backwards

  11. #31
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    Aug 2006
    Location
    Pittsburgh PA
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    I finally got the blade for my saw. freud 60 tooth.
    http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...106+524425+590
    NOW it works! I made a bottom board (screened) as per Ross's plans just for fun. it took me 1.5 hours but I loved it! The cut is so smooth! now it(saw) feels like a good thing to have. Grizzly Rocks!

    As you can tell I am very HAPPY!
    There is no greater satisfaction than the satisfaction of a job well done.

  12. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Bridgewater VT. USA
    Posts
    238

    Smile saw & blades

    As far as blades go unless you are doing a lot of cutting on hard woods the highend name brand blades are to expensive, most big box stores carry a blade made to the same standards as the name brand blades without all the fancy paint and logos, @ Home depot the oldham blade is one of those. If looking for a dado blade the 8" stack dado blades work well and are much cheaper than the 10". since your dado cut is usually 1" or less there is no need for a 10" blade. When ripping material the old standard of blade as low as possible creates a lot of friction, raise the blade so that the tooth gullet ( the notches between the teeth) is even with the material top, use a push stick and keep your feed rate as fast as your saw and you are capable of to minimize burning. as far as checking your fence for square first check that your blade is square to the mitre slots on the table, a framing square works well for this. If these are square place the framing square between the blade and fence and check for true. The fence should be about a 1/32" wider at the far side of the blade (with the blade at full height) to prevent binding. There should be adjustment screws on the fence to help with alignment. Once you have it set up practice with scraps of wood to get comfortable with your saw before working with finish material.
    Stuart

  13. #33
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    May 2007
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    Hillsboro, Wisconsin, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by danameric View Post
    I know something that will make your table saw smoke a lot. Putting in your blade backwards
    Never done it on the table saw, but I admit to doing it on the portable circular saw. Yep, smokin'!

    MM

  14. #34
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    May 2007
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    Hillsboro, Wisconsin, USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ross View Post
    Yep, I have quite a collection of scrapers, from card stock to #80s, #12s, #112s. They all have their place. We talk about old tools and machinery of all types on my forum at Wood Magazine. Stop in for a visit.
    I visit there in every once in a while. And if you think beekeeping is expensive, buy some old planes... Beekeeping is cheap compared to being a handtool galoot, right Ross?

    I stop in to WoodNet all the time. Nice to have so many forums where folks will give you the best ideas of how and where to spend your money.

    MM

  15. #35
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    Apr 2003
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    Greenville, TX, USA
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    It only gets expensive if you buy 100's (like I do) or like the rare stuff (like I do)

  16. #36
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    May 2007
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    Hillsboro, Wisconsin, USA
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    Are you attending Brown's auction this coming 4th and 5th in PA? Looks like they have some nice items listed. Check out the samples pages:

    http://www.finetoolj.com/bas/home.html

    MM

  17. #37
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    Apr 2003
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    Greenville, TX, USA
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    Too far away. I wish I could.

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