Need some advice on wood to use for a hive

[FordGuy]

Hi folks. I got around thirty boards that are 24 inches wide, 30 inches tall, and one inch (little less) thick. They are fully finished yellow pine, and were gave to me as an organization was throwing them away. They appear to be 4 inch boards that are glued side by side to make the full 24 inch wide board. The finish appears to be a commercially applied hard polyurethane. They were bookshelves and appear to have held up well to scratches.

I've had some recent luck making woodenware. I can take an old cedar board and whip up a screened bottom board or migratory top, titebond glued and screwed together, in no time flat. This is kind of nice to be able to just make what i need in a hurry. I just remember all the dimensions, use a pencil, square, and tape measure and small trim saw and cut away.

So I'd like to use these boards, but I am wondering if laminated boards (laminated side by side) have a tendency to seperate over a year or so?

What if I hit them with a coat of latex paint?

if this is a lost cause, tell me and I'll change directions here and use the boards as wains coating in my home.

[drobbins]

FordGuy

my guess would be if they were originally intended for indoor use, you should stick with that
exterior glue is more expensive and they usually don't use it on stuff made for inside (bookcases)
there are a lot of really good glues for interior use that fail when they get wet
build shelves out of them, everybody needs shelves

Dave

[Ross]

If you are worried about the glue, simply rip them along the glue joint on the table saw and re-glue them with Titebond II or III. I'd use them as is.

[TwT]

I got some boards like that a few years back, they were shelves and they have done fine, I just put 2 coats of exterior latex paint on them like I do all and not a single problem, I always thought most use regular wood glue and moisture shouldn't be a problem, well at least I have seen any yet...

[MapMan]

I'd use the boards, making certain that I used a good primer coat and then followed up with two final coats. Before type III PCA glues came around they used other white glues, even on outdoor stuff. Paint will make the difference.

If I can recycle anything, I do it - that's me. You wouldn't believe the piles of lumber, old windows, doors, milled hardwood I have sitting around. But I use it all of the time.

MM

[Ravenseye]

I'd use them. Sand a bit, prime, paint and off you go.

[Jack Grimshaw]

The bees will seal any cracks.Just protect the outside.

[BeeKeep]

I'd use 'em. If you're worried about moisture getting into the glue joints, you could brush another 1 or 2 coats of exterior (Spar) Polyurehtane. It'll bond well to the existing polyurethane. Spar provides a bit more moisture resistance and has some additives for UV protection.

If you want to be sure it's polyurethane and not possibly shelleck, put a drop of alcohol on the finish. If it's shelleck, the alcohol will disolve into the finish. If it's poly - it won't.

Scott