Beesource Beekeeping Forums banner

staple gun for supers

117K views 99 replies 63 participants last post by  G3farms 
#1 ·
making up new supers wondering what type of staple gun and size staples to use. any comments well appreciated
 
#36 ·
I'm looking to get a nailer/stapler but unsure of which, and now I see this thread. I would like something that will be well suited for building all hive components, be it brood boxes, bottom boards, roofs, etc. Would the Hitachi N3804AB3 mentioned be a good for this? Or should I go with something else, with a longer length nail/staple?
 
#38 ·
I use a Hitachi air nailer with about 1.8" nails. Yes, they sometimes follow the grain. I usually break off any that protrude.

Titebond III absolutely.

I have a cheap Harbor Freight nailer. It seems to have ingested a tiny piece of trash that made it fire at dangerous times. Pulling the trigger would not make it fire, but connecting or disconnecting the air would make it fire, without the safety mechanism depressed. Quite disturbing. A complete cleaning of the guts fixed it, but now I treat air nailers with the same range safety considerations I would with a pistol. It could probably happen to any of them.

I don't use the air nailer for frames. For that I use a spring-drive stapler that can also shoot 5/8" brads. Titebond does the heavy holding. I shoot the brads in from the sides so they are long enough.
 
#39 ·
I use a Porter cable ms200 medium crown staple gun with 2" B&C Eagle stainless steel medium crown staples. This along with tight bond 3 makes a very strong bond and I've never had issues with boxes pulling appart.

I use a Porter cable narrow crown stapler with 1.5" staples for frames. It might work for boxes, but for me a medium crown stapler is better for boxes.
 
#42 ·
A while back my son bought a Grex 16 ga. 7/16" crown stapler for assembling supers. He bought some 2" long staples for it. We tried using it the first time and found that the stapler obviously needs a larger air compressor to feed the stapler, as the stapler would only shoot the first or maybe second staple deep enough into the wood before you had to take a small break to let the compressor catch up.... not too efficient! How do I decide what size compressor I need to buy (without overkill) to get the proper air pressure continuously at the tool? Thanks.
 
#43 ·
Hey. I use that portable porter cable pancake compressor with two outlets. It's primarily what we use on jobsites. It is going to turn on and every dozen shots or so. If you don't want that look at a much larger tank.
They all have gauges too. It's not always catching up, but turning on before it gets too low.
 
#50 ·
Two DeWalt cordless screwdrivers

one with a drill / countersink bit (let the grandkids do that part, they are 'helping Grandpa')

one to drive 2-1/2 " weatherproofed screws

a piece of 3/4 plywood to fit snugly inside to keep it square

takes a good bit longer but they don't loosen up
 
#52 ·
I know this is an older thread that was kind of reborn... but I'll add my opinion... we all like those, right? :)

I think the method for attaching also depends on the joint being used. I've used Elmers wood glue and Titebond 3 in my little shop, and now I use Titebond 3 exclusively. I wouldn't use anything else on my hive parts. I don't think it can be beat, but again, that's MY opinion. Your mileage may vary. All of my thoughts below are with the mind that you are using that glue.

-If a person is just using a butt joint, I would feel more comfortable using glue and screws with pre-drilled pilot holes.

-If using a rabbit type joint, I think glue and nails or staples would be sufficient, screws would add a little more "extra" assurance.

-If using finger joints, I think glue and nails or staples are sufficient, again, screws add extra assurance.

-if using really good (tight) finger joints, glue will likely hold on it's own for several years.

I only use 8 frame mediums, and I don't throw stuff around. I may drop a hive body a foot or two to the ground, and I don't "baby" anything, but I treat it like I want it to last.

Wow... I've gotten off on a tangent here, haven't I.... sorry.

I use a Hitachi 18ga stapler with a porter cable pancake compressor, set to about 75 or 80psi. I use 1 1/4" staples. I build my boxes with 3/4" box joints. One staple per "finger" on the joint along with glue. Covered in primer and two coats of paint. If I try to get it apart, the wood breaks before the joint does.
 
#53 ·
I know this is an older thread that was kind of reborn... but I'll add my opinion... we all like those, right? :)

I think the method for attaching also depends on the joint being used. I've used Elmers wood glue and Titebond 3 in my little shop, and now I use Titebond 3 exclusively. I wouldn't use anything else on my hive parts. I don't think it can be beat, but again, that's MY opinion. Your mileage may vary. All of my thoughts below are with the mind that you are using that glue.

-If a person is just using a butt joint, I would feel more comfortable using glue and screws with pre-drilled pilot holes.

-If using a rabbit type joint, I think glue and nails or staples would be sufficient, screws would add a little more "extra" assurance.

-If using finger joints, I think glue and nails or staples are sufficient, again, screws add extra assurance.

-if using really good (tight) finger joints, glue will likely hold on it's own for several years.

I only use 8 frame mediums, and I don't throw stuff around. I may drop a hive body a foot or two to the ground, and I don't "baby" anything, but I treat it like I want it to last.

Wow... I've gotten off on a tangent here, haven't I.... sorry.

I use a Hitachi 18ga stapler with a porter cable pancake compressor, set to about 75 or 80psi. I use 1 1/4" staples. I build my boxes with 3/4" box joints. One staple per "finger" on the joint along with glue. Covered in primer and two coats of paint. If I try to get it apart, the wood breaks before the joint does.
 
#58 ·
Harbor Freight 18 gauge in assorted lengths. Under 20 dollars at HF.

These are great until they break. I have a broken Senco that cost about $200 well over 30 years ago. When it broke, I went to the harbor freights. They work well. I have probably 6 broken ones. Latest addition is a Hitachi which looks like the HF models, but has been going strong for maybe 3 years. I recommend Hitachi.
 
#57 ·
I hurriedly ( is hurriedly a word? ) threw together some supers in early June, from scrap packing crate lumber, did not paint, just got them on the hives as fast as I could get them stapled together. butt jointte most with glue. 1/4 inch crown staples, 1&1/2 long.
Now the flow is over here, extraction/ bottling is done, getting these boxes off & repairing, painting etc. some of the boards are "cupping" apart at the edges. I am pulling them back close with a bar clamp & Adding a screw in each corner, filling the cracks & open end grains, knots with glue & painting/repainting . Same for some of my original finger joint boxes.
For future/new construction, I will consider a screw in each corner to start with.
Good Luck with your bees ...CE
 
#60 ·
Do not forget that 20 or 25% soupcon from HF.

I used to use Sears Tools when I worked for Brown and Root back going to school when the had 100% free replacement and were great tools. Hard to beat Harbor Freight on sale unless your life depended on it. I figure most of the foreign made tools are never going to be the quality of quality made tools from 50 years ago.
 
#62 ·
Dovetail joints and TiteBond III glue, then clamp up for 2 -
4 hours ---- no screws, nails or staples. Water clean-up is great. Biggest problem is getting a router bit for 1-inch rough sawn pine with the routing fixture. I have to plane to .912 and use a 7/8ths deep bit bit (little extra extension :) ).
 
#65 ·
Frame making question...
I don't have a compressor and can not justify buying one that I will never use again. Nor can I spend that kind of money for that and a staple gun.

I don't mind buying a cheap Brad nailer for the frames but will those and Titebond2 work well enough for Deeps and mediums ?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top