Small Hive Beetle Problem

[GA-BEE]

I was able to get into my hives this past weekend for the first time in over a month and I couldn't beleive the SHB's. There is one hive on the verge of colapse I fear and two more are heavily infested. Please tell me what WORKS to get rid of these despicable pests.

I normally use Gardstar but with the rains we have been having I've had to delay treatment. I don't like to use chemicals in the hives but I am about to change my mind.

[kenpkr]

I just received my AJs Beetle eaters from Dadant.
https://www.dadant.com/catalog/produ...roducts_id=867

I've heard good things about them and plan to put them in soon just above the cluster. Maybe if you were to get these in during winter you could decrease their numbers before they start actively reproducing when warmer weather comes. The severe cold we had over the last 3 weeks appears to have killed off quite a few for me (seen on the bottom board when I checked mite counts).
Good luck

[Flyman]

I had a a bad SHB infestation and installed West traps over the bottom board. This was before AJ's traps were available. IMO AJ's traps will be good for ongoing treatment, not trying to get a major ourbreak under control. The West trap got mine undercontrol in less than a week. I am using AJ's to keep them under control. Hope this helps.

[Beaches' Bee-Haven Apiary]

You may need to give them a shock treatment of Check Mite +. If it's legal in GA.

-Nathanael

[Panhandle Bee man]

Gardstar only works against shb pupa. That should not be a problem this time of year. Hives with a large number of adult shb are probably trying to tell you something, and the problem isn't the shb. You may have a queen problem, mite problem, sunlight issue, or other disease issue going on.

West traps will cut down on adult shb fairly quickly. Checkmite will kill adult shb quickly. But until you take care of the underlying problem, the shb will keep returning.

[BjornBee]

If your going to use checkmite, and it is very effective, please use the cardboard method so comb contamination does not take place. If you use the strips between two pieces of cardboard, the bees and comb will not come in contact with the strips. One on the bottom board and one on the inner cover will do the trick.

[bluegrass]

I thought cold weather did the adults in every winter? Has it not been cold in GA this year?

[D Coates]

I read those articles as well and enjoyed learning but fear what's coming. Knock on wood, (really hard) they aren't here yet. I want to get in front of this by putting a trap in each of my hives but the one thing I did not understand is where do you put the baited "sandwich" traps?

1. If above the inner cover do you need to build a mini hive body to gain the space necessary for the trap?

2. If on the bottom board how do you check the trap without completely disrupting the hive?

I look forward to seeing everyones response to the Australian Hive Beetle traps work once things warm up.

[Beaches' Bee-Haven Apiary]

I thought cold weather did the adults in every winter? Has it not been cold in GA this year?

No, they just cluster with the colony.

-Nathanael

[Bizzybee]

Has been another mild winter and coming out of it now. I saw a fair number in the clusters about a month ago, but we had some decent cold weather over the last two or three weeks that put a serious hurt on them. I hardly see any at all now, only carcasses. But then I have screened inner covers and bottom boards too. It is my intent to have them get the full effect of the little cold weather that we do see.

I doesn't usually get all of them out of the clusters, but most if it's cold enough.

[Grant]

Hey D Coates (and others)

Scroll down to the post in this forum titled, "Small Hive Beetle in Missouri?"

Follow the discussion until you get to the link for Linda's blog She has made a SHB video on her web site that is absolutely fantastic.

But to give you the short answer to the question, "Where do you get these sandwich traps?"

You make them. You get the sandwich containers at Dollar General. You drill 3/16" holes in the side. You take a jar lid (or I used Ross Round covers) and pour in the liquid lure (Linda has recipe), then put them above the cluster, resting them on the top bars. Yes, you'll have to set an empty super on top to make room for the trap.

The last ABJ has the article with other links.

And let's give Sonny and Mel a fantastic round of applause. These traps work!

Grant
Jackson, MO

[sc-bee]

I did my first inspection two days ago, and much to my dismay, I also have shb at an alarming level. The brood comb area in two hives have literally hundreds. I too am trying to access the situation and wondering how we are going to control these pest this year, hopefully without chems.

It is looking rather dismal on my end right now and it's early in the season:mad:.

[D Coates]

Grant,

The video was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks! I was rereading your 2 Hive beetle articles and noticed there were photos of the hive traps directly on the frame tops and other photos of the traps on the inner cover. Which worked better for you?

Personally I'd like to put them on top of the inner cover with the mini hive body on top of it to avoid bur comb and to be able to check the trap without really opening and disrupting the hive. The flipside is they apparently will hide under the trap if it's on the inner cover.

Any help is appreciated

[Jman45]

Hi, I am always having an issue with SHBs here in Florida. Unfortunately I am unable to put all of my hives in a full sunlit area. I have tried most of the methods except Mel's trap and the AJ trap. I have been putting a couple of strips of checkmite above the screened inner cover which seems to knock down the SHBs pretty rapidly. Based on one of the replies above I am a little worried about the comb contamination issue. Do you guys think that I might run into this with my method ?

I did just order several of the AJ traps and I hope they will help control the SHB. The only way that I can stop the "herd" is to use the checkmite on the inner cover. I have mostly Italian hives but do have a few russian. I am yet to see any SHBs in my russian hives, I think the russians are just too mean and run them off, who knows..

[lake thompson honey]

i just got test results back on my honey. it showed levels of coumaphos that were acceptable however i have not used coumaphos for five years. the fact that there is any level showing up in my honey is troubling. my advice would be to stay away from it completely. i think some of you southern guys that are having trouble with hive beetle could go treat the ground in a new spot with gardstar and then move your hives to that spot. or move the hives out to a random spot for a couple days while you spray your current spot with gardstar and then bring the hives back. i think traps are an excellant detection device but you are never going to get rid of hive beetles with traps alone. thats just my opinion. i dont think i would try to treat the ground around hives with gardstar without moving the hives first because of the risk of dead bees.

[BjornBee]

If you use rubber matting as seen in the photo as an example, you can get great control over SHB larvae as well as many other benefits. Its great for weed control. Ant control, and other insect control can be achieved by a sprinkling of borax (or salt)occasionally around the edge of the rubber. And thats if the larvae even make it to the edge as crawling along the rubber almost guarantees that most die in the process.

I would never consider setting up a yard without rubber matting nowadays. it seems to help with a host of problems and the benefits are well worth the effort. The photo was just a prop shot. I usually have about a 4 foot buffer of rubber on all sides of the hive. Larvae get cooked on the rubber...and no more weedeating!

[Jman45]

Interesting. I would much rather use something other than chemicals if at all possible. Where do you get your matting from ?

[BjornBee]

I got lucky as a local roofing contractor was replacing a roof for a buyer of a large warehouse. The contract called for a new roof.

So I was getting 20 x 20 sheets, about 14 per skid, for 100 dollars. Best part was that it was less than two years old and they used no glue when they put it down. So it was near perfect stuff.

I have seen it advertised over the years. But never paid much attention. Maybe contact a couple large roofing contractor and see if they can keep you in mind.

Buying new is way too much.

Good luck.

[Grant]

D Coates wrote: The video was exactly what I was looking for. Thanks! I was rereading your 2 Hive beetle articles and noticed there were photos of the hive traps directly on the frame tops and other photos of the traps on the inner cover. Which worked better for you?

Response: the sandwich traps over the bare top bars worked the best. Traps set on the inner cover provided a very narrow area between the trap and the inner cover where beetles would hide from the bees. I'd lift the trap and fifty beetles would scurry in all directions.

Grant
Jackson, MO

[Drugstore]

A good source for mats to put under Beehives is a pool company.
I got the Idea when I replaced the vinyl liner in my pool.
The pool companies cut the old liners out with a case cutter and haul them off to the dump.
I kept my side wall liners. You can get them in 4 foot by 20 foot strips.
It is heavy duty vinyl. Mine happen to be white,but they come in what ever color that the pool happened to be.
They are free for the asking and I am sure they would cut them a certain way for you if you paid them.
They look just like the one Bjorn pictured,but they are not black.
Pool companies in Florida should be able to suppy you .
Richard