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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Troupsburg, NY
    Posts
    4,072

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeffzhear View Post
    Peggjam, ahhhhh, would you be paying shipping to Owego NY too? Sounds like a bargain at twice the price! Put my name at the head of the list pulease!

    LOL, just kidding and I hope you get the saw you want!
    I got a Grizzily cabinet saw, it works good, but it is not set up to cut out the number of pieces I need to cut, in the time I have to cut them. Ironicly, I have a real cheap sears saw that I use for a dado cutter, it works much better than the radial arm does.

    I think the new ones are just plain junk, the old ones were proably built here in the good ol US of A. I'm not kidding, even free, this saw wouldn't be a good deal.......
    "I reject your reality, and substitute my own." Adam Savage

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Troupsburg, NY
    Posts
    4,072

    Default

    "I can adjust radial arm saw, any brand. They all work about the same. Craftsman has a problem of under-speccing fasteners. The first thing you do is upgrade all the bolts to grade 5 bolts so they don't stretch, then your adjustments will stay for awhile. There is a specific sequence for setting up a radial arm and deviating will cause you grieve."

    The way the saw head mounts to the arm is real wobbly, I don't think it was ment to be that way, as just cutting a crosscut, if you want to, you can torch the head a 1/4 inch left or right. But that's not the only problem with it. You can't line up the rip from front to back and have it stay in line the lenght of time it takes to tighten the bolts. I love the thing for the speed of cross cutting, but you have to cut them long enough to square them on the other saw.

    My Grizzily has a fox fence, which is ok, and it sure is heavey.
    "I reject your reality, and substitute my own." Adam Savage

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    St. Albans, Vermont
    Posts
    5,585

    Default

    >I see older Delta (Rockwell) contractor saws for sale in that price range all the time and they are a much better value.<

    Boy, that's the truth. I still have the Rockwell saw I bought in 1974. I've made thousands of bee boxes, bottoms, windows, cabinet doors, and too much other stuff to mention. Still works great. Easy to set up. Plus...I can still get parts for it at delta.com

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Worcester County, Massachusetts
    Posts
    3,740

    Default

    ...i found a 1967 delta/rockwell 10" radial arm saw locally on craigslist. i've done a fair ammount of manufacturing work (musical and medical instruments), and have a good deal of machine shop experience...but limited woodworking experience.

    a saw like this, or a dewalt, is like a machine tool, holds adjustments very well (it's all cast and weighs a lot), and has the turret head for mitered cuts.

    with this, a cheap skill saw, and an 8" craftsman table saw, i've really enjoyed building equipent this year.

    for ripping, the table saw is the best, but almost everything else seems easier on the ras.

    deknow

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Greenville, TX, USA
    Posts
    4,416

    Default

    Peggjam, you can tighten the head on the arm. The slide bearings are mounted on eccentric bolts. Loosen the lock nut and turn the bolt to tighten it on the slide. It actually moves the bearings in and out, so you can get it as snug as you like as long as it still slides. You'll need to remove the sheet metal arm cover to get at the bolts from the top. You can also take the slop out of the column itself. This is a good book..http://www.mrsawdust.com/
    There is also one by Roger Cliffe that I have that is pretty good, but not a lot on setup.
    Last edited by Ross; 06-26-2007 at 06:05 AM.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    East TENNESSEE
    Posts
    100

    Default Ridgid

    We had a similar thread last year, a guy got rid of his craftsman and bought a ridgid. I did the same, I like the ridgid better, no plastic parts to break easily. I don't think any of the craftsman tools are the quality they use to be.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Greenville, TX, USA
    Posts
    4,416

    Default

    True, but you can make them work. For that matter, Delta, Powermatic and others are not what they used to be. I have two 12" Deltas. One has a steel elevation gear, the other is plastic. Guess which is which.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Pittsburgh PA
    Posts
    399

    Default You guys are just great!

    Thanks a lot guys for saving me from a lot of hassle later on... I like the bosch saw better (it is 485 on amazon cheapest right now) and try to find a deal somewhere. mean while I will try to find some used rockwell-delta saw. I do like the folding style better though.

    There is one on ebay right now, lets see what you think of this one. the guy says he bought it a little over a year ago. It is within driving distance from me

    http://cgi.ebay.com/BOSCH-4000-09-10...QQcmdZViewItem

    as always thanks a lot..
    There is no greater satisfaction than the satisfaction of a job well done.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Greenville, TX, USA
    Posts
    4,416

    Default

    Under powered and over priced. Never believe 'Peak HP' ratings. Ever see a 6HP shop vac? You should be able to buy a real saw for less than the opening bid. Direct drive saws just aren't very good. Making beehives involves ripping material most every time. Ripping takes horsepower, a good fence, and a solid work surface or it becomes frustratingly slow and dangerous. Having to baby a board through the cut just makes it easier to screw up and get a kickback IMHO. Do you ever plan to cut plywood. It would be very dangerous to try on a table top saw. The bearings aren't designed for the loads of a dado blade either. Here are a few more good comments....
    http://www.woodworking.com/ww101et-table.cfm

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