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Thread: Building boxes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
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    Greenville, TX, USA
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    Default Building boxes

    Time for a new thread. Since its been raining here for 4 days, so I decided to build supers today. I have a fairly clugee jig for doing 3 at a time. Michael posted one awhile ago as well. I'm trying to improve on mine, so I want to see ideas and comments. I'll go first...

    I finally discovered I can speed things up by clamping all the pieces together and applying the glue to all at once.
    http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/boxjig/glue1.jpg
    http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/boxjig/glue2.jpg

    My jig is a 3 sided box. It has slots for rails to hold the sides in place, kind of like my frame jig. I don't use them much anymore.
    http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/boxjig/jig3.jpg
    http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/boxjig/jig2.jpg

    The fourth side is floating in the slots. This allows me to use clamps to draw all 3 together at once. The little feet keep it centered so I can nail all 4 sides while in the clamps.
    http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/boxjig/jig1.jpg

    It works ok, but faster is better when you have a bunch to build...
    http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/boxjig/supers.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Madison Heights VA
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    Default

    Ross,
    Some great ideas.
    Thanks for sharing.
    Curtis

  3. #3
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    Jan 2007
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    berkshire county MA
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    Default

    Is it lots faster than doing one at a time and checking with a square? Might be once you get into the swing of things.

  4. #4
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    Sep 2006
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    SE Texas
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    Default time saving gadgets

    my wife accuses me of spending hours building time saving gadgets....someone else fits the profile!

  5. #5
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    Default

    It is considerably faster than one at a time to me. They always come out square. I'm thinking of ditching the clamps in favor of Deco toggle clamps. If I do that I may go to a 4 box jig. Anything much bigger gets hard to handle when you flip it to nail the bottom sides.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Grapevine,Texas
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    59

    Default jig

    Harry Vanderpool in Oregon had an interesting one a year or so ago. Think he does several hundred at a sitting. He was on the forum...you might search.

    Think I would build his style if I ever did more than half dozen at a time.

    Ray
    Back To The Future

  7. #7
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    Apr 2003
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    Default

    The only thing I found of his is a single box jig.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Columbia, South Carolina USA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ross View Post
    I'm trying to improve on mine, s
    I am thinking of making one of these - have you made any of the improvements you were hoping for?

    My luck I would copy v. 1.0 and you would come out with version 1.1 . . .

    Keith
    Bee Sting Honey - So Good, It Hurts!

  9. #9
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    I haven't really messed with it this year. Michael Bush had one better than mine.

  10. #10
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    Default

    Thanks for the update. Michael - got any pics of the contraption?

    Keith
    Bee Sting Honey - So Good, It Hurts!

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Hillsboro, Wisconsin, USA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ross View Post
    I haven't really messed with it this year. Michael Bush had one better than mine.
    I use a similar design to what MB uses, made it to fit two deeps or three mediums, and cut the height down a bit - no need to support the box that high. No clamps, I spread glue with a disposable foam brush, use a plastic mallet to seat the joint and shoot 1 3/4" narrow crown staples into the fingers.

    http://www.bushfarms.com/beesboxjig.htm


    MM

  12. #12
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    Thanks for the link. No screws - just the staples? And that is holding up for years? It is not that I don't believe you, just making sure.

    Keith
    Bee Sting Honey - So Good, It Hurts!

  13. #13
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    Default

    ...i made one based on looking at michael's picture (on his website). mine does 2 deep boxes at a time.

    even when applying the glue on more than one piece at a time, i find this the slow part of the process...i'd like to build a big, profiled brush that will do all the joints at once.

    my jig is pretty tight, and i countersink each hole and use drywall screws to hold things together. this way, the screws act as the clamp, and they can be tightened in the field.

    fwiw, i find the best way to design/build these things is to (using some cad program) draw the part first (based on your actually measuring the actual part), then draw the jig around the part.

    i'll try to take/post pics of mine when i get the chance.

    deknow

  14. #14
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  15. #15
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    yeah, i do that, but it still feels like a slow process.

    i'm imagining a horizontal bar with "paintbrush fingers" to match the box joint. glue in a paint tray...one swipe, and all the joints are well glued.

    i won't bother until i have to build up another bunch of boxes....which may or may not happen soon.

    deknow

  16. #16
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    Mar 2008
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    Russellville, Alabama
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    Default

    this might be a dumb question but... I have some 34 inch pine stock. it is only 6 inches wide. Can I join those boards and make deeps with those? or would the joint cause a problem with moisture?

  17. #17
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    Smile No screws - just the staples

    its the glue- the nails/staples are to hold shape till it dries. they are not strictly necessary. good luck,mike
    "Wine is a constant proof that God loves us and loves to see us happy" Ben Franklin

  18. #18
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    Apr 2006
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    Indian Valley, Virginia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Docking View Post
    this might be a dumb question but... I have some 34 inch pine stock. it is only 6 inches wide. Can I join those boards and make deeps with those? or would the joint cause a problem with moisture?
    you should use waterproof glue like TB3.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keith Benson View Post
    Thanks for the link. No screws - just the staples? And that is holding up for years? It is not that I don't believe you, just making sure.

    Keith
    You should use outdoor rated PVA (Titebond III) glue. You have to really trust your glue, as that is what is really holding the boxes together. I use PVA III for many outdoor projects, and it holds up very well. Your box joints should also be prepared correctly - when dry-fit, there should be some resistance -- no sloppy fitting joints.

    I use the typical formula for the minimum size of the fastener (in this case staples) -- twice the width of the boards, plus .25", or 1 3/4". I shoot the staples into every finger of the box joints. Just takes me a few minutes to glue and shoot staples into each corner - no pre-drilling for nails or screws. Many folks use drywall srews which can fail, as they are very brittle, and not designed for fastening wood together! Of course, a good coat of primer and two finish coats of outdoor paint protects the joints from premature failure.

    For more info on glue strength:

    www.titebond.com/Download/pdf/HowStrongisYourGlue_FWW.pdf

    MM

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Docking View Post
    this might be a dumb question but... I have some 34 inch pine stock. it is only 6 inches wide. Can I join those boards and make deeps with those? or would the joint cause a problem with moisture?
    Not a dumb question. Make certain that your joint is clean and tight - use a jointer if you have one, or in a pinch, rip using a sharp blade on your table saw. When gluing, don't starve the joint by applying too much pressure. Many folks tighten the clamps so hard that most of the glue squeezes out, and the boards buckle.

    Only tighten the clamps hard enough in sequence so that the joint just starts to ooze glue. Using cauls (with a small piece of waxed paper between each caul and the glued boards), put a set of clamps at the ends of each board pressing down onto the glue joint. This will help to avoid buckling the joint.

    MM

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