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  1. #1

    Default packages into 5 frame medium nucs?

    Hi all,
    I'm preparing to install five packages into 5 frame medium nucs. I'm going to try foundationless and I have cut down the wedge top frames to 1.25" so the nucs actually hold 6 frames. I nailed the wedges on vertically as starter strips and will rub beeswax onto them, along with a few drops of lemongrass oil in each nuc. I have hive top feeders to fit the nucs. I want to try top entrances and so thought I would place tapered shims between the nucs and the hive top feeders. I have nailed plywood bottoms onto the nucs.

    I have installed only two other packages previously (last year) and they were both into 10 frame deeps.
    My questions are:
    1. How many frames will have to be removed in order for the bees to fit and the queen cage to be hung.
    2. What's the best way to install the bees and release the queen? (She will have been in the package for at least 4 days by the time I install.)
    3. Should I use bottom entrances in the nucs and then switch to top entrances when I switch to 10 frame mediums?
    4. Will temperatures ranging from the mid 30's at night to the mid 50's during the day (and cloudy!) be too cold for the bees to use the top feeders?
    Thanks for all advise!
    Kyle
    "Argue for your limitations, and sure enough they're yours."
    Kyle Meadows www.kylemeadows.com

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Indiana, Clay County
    Posts
    524

    Default frames

    Well I dont know . I am new, but I just installed a 3lb package on a medium, and I used 6 frames spaced evenly in the middle of the hive body. I am using a jar feeder over the cluster, and cut unwired wax foundation in 1/2 for deeps in to get them going, when I get some good strait comb I will go to starter strips. I am 2 hrs north of you and my bees are taking syrup and doing well.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Greenwood, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    39,809

    Default

    >1. How many frames will have to be removed in order for the bees to fit and the queen cage to be hung.

    I'd take two out, shake in the bees, put the two back in and release the queen into the nuc. I would not put the cage in at all.

    >2. What's the best way to install the bees and release the queen? (She will have been in the package for at least 4 days by the time I install.)

    First make sure they are fed. Spray some syrup on the screen or paint some on with a very soft brush until they stop taking it. If it's too cold to take syrup this will help tide them over, plus they will be much nicer on a full stomach.

    Get a pair of needle nosed pliers so you can grab the rim of the can. Slam the box down and pull out the can with the pliers to get started and then grab the can and pull. Grab the metal strip that is to the side of the can, this is the queen. Pull that through the slot until you have the queen out. Put the can back over the hole, but not down in it. Do what you want with the queen. I'd mark her. Some would clip her. If you have a queen muff you should be able to keep her from flying away. If you marked her, put her either in a marking tube or a queen catcher. If you aren't going to mark her leave her in the cage. Slam the box down lightly (because of the can) and then remove the can and hit it sharply. Pour the bees out. When no significant numbers are coming out, slam it down again and dump more out. After all but a very few bees are out of the box, put the two frames back in and aim the queen tube or catcher down at a gap between two frames and release her. Make sure the gap between the frames is a little big so she has no hesitation in going down. If she's in the cage, pull the staples enough that you can peel back the screen (but don't let her out yet) and hold the cage with the screen down so if she tries to fly the only way to go is down. Peel it back and put it close enough to the top bars that she can climb out into the hive. After she runs down in, push the frames tightly together in the center and close up.

    >3. Should I use bottom entrances in the nucs and then switch to top entrances when I switch to 10 frame mediums?

    Unless that is a lot more convenient for you, it will be less for them to get used to if you start with a top entrance.

    >4. Will temperatures ranging from the mid 30's at night to the mid 50's during the day (and cloudy!) be too cold for the bees to use the top feeders?

    During the day they should get some of the syrup, but it is pretty cold. You might want to warm the syrup up so they can take it better as the 30's at night make the syrup very cold and they can't take it until the syrup warms up to 50 F. You can heat the syrup just hot enough that you can put your finger in it comfortably (110 F or whatever it comes to) but it feels hot. That will make the heat last longer for them.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it."
    My book: ThePracticalBeekeeper.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Wausau Wi
    Posts
    308

    Default installing packages

    Another way I sometimes install a package would be to in a 8 or 10 frame deep. What I do is take the queen cage out and get her situated between frames. ( provided its warm enough out ) then you can set the package of bees inside the hive where you removed some frames. Then take the can of syrup out and close up the hive. You can put a feeder on also. Come back a day or so later and all the bees are out of the package, and HAPPY. They will be all clustered on the frames. Just take the empty package out and Waaa Laaa You just installed a package. If you are a first timer, its a little easier if you are hesitant about dealing with all the bees. Its also faster in some aspects too.
    Everything happens for a reason. Time heals all wounds - time and a half heals them even faster

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Greenwood, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    39,809

    Default

    >Come back a day or so later and all the bees are out of the package, and HAPPY.

    Usually this works well. Sometimes they cluster on the lid and build comb there instead.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it."
    My book: ThePracticalBeekeeper.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Kiel WI, USA
    Posts
    2,376

    Default

    Since you're going foundationless, there's no need to put the queen cage BETWEEN frames, you can just wire it to the bottom of the top bar and leave it in the comb.

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