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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Lake county, Indiana 46408-4109
    Posts
    3,540

    Default

    http://www.steoil.com/index.asp

    Or Wal Mart for small amounts
    Last edited by honeyman46408; 04-15-2007 at 05:29 PM. Reason: add
    Ed, KA9CTT profanity is IGNORANCE made audible
    you can`t fix stupid not even with duct tape

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Mason, MI, USA
    Posts
    1,015

    Default

    I purchased a barrel of it from STE oil 8 years ago as per DR. Rodregaz and between use and selling some I only have 4 gallons left from the original 50 gallons. It has worked good for me just fogging. I used it alone for 5 years on 500 + hives in my polonation business before I retired and now with Thymol for the last 2 1/2 years on10 to 15 hives. It has kept me away from the harsh and toxic chemicals used for the control of mites.

    Clint
    Clinton Bemrose<br />just South of Lansing Michigan<br />Beekeeping since 1964

  3. #23

    Default

    Can someone tell me how much fog to use per hive and how often do you fog each hive?

    Thanks,
    Mark

  4. #24
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    eastern Hanover, Virginia
    Posts
    361

    Default fog'n frequency

    i've been told on here that you should take of the outer cover and fog 'em until you see some fog coming out of the top. And it seems most people on here recommend fogging once a week as general maintenance.
    -M@

  5. #25

    Default

    OK, thanks Matt. I'll give it a try.

    Mark

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Morehead City, NC
    Posts
    5

    Default Inspect first Fog second?

    I am a Newbee! When fogging once a week as general maintenance would this be a good time to inspect the hive as well. Can you smoke and inspect and then fog towards the end of your inspection or does this sound like to much time manipulating them and possibly drive them to the point of irritation?

    Many thanks,
    Emily


    Quote Originally Posted by newbeematt View Post
    i've been told on here that you should take of the outer cover and fog 'em until you see some fog coming out of the top. And it seems most people on here recommend fogging once a week as general maintenance.
    Just trying to learn what the gals already know!

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    eastern Hanover, Virginia
    Posts
    361

    Question

    i dunno about that. i'm just now getting ready to do my 2nd fogging myself. but i'd would think that you'd want to have as many bees in the hive as possible when you fog, so if you were doing an ispection at the same time, there might be a lot of them out flying.
    -M@

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Mason, MI, USA
    Posts
    1,015

    Default

    I voften use the fogger with FGMO when inspecting hives with no problems.
    Clint
    Clinton Bemrose<br />just South of Lansing Michigan<br />Beekeeping since 1964

  9. #29
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    eastern Hanover, Virginia
    Posts
    361

    Sad fog flash bomb !!

    ok... when i 1st was trying to use my fogger, i got some pretty nasty boiling oil shooting out. i wrote about it on this thread a while back. since then, i've had no problems. Then yesterday, something pretty scary happened. i was going down the line, fogging each hive, doing each the same way, making sure i wasnt tipping the fogger forward. the nozzel up at the entrance, everything normal...... FWOMP ! the fog somehow ignited and a fire ball shot out the entrance. I dunno how many bees died yet, i figured i'd give them a day or two before looking, but there was at least a thousand blown out the front that were singed wingless/legless or just plain dead. I never saw the fogger flame up at all, just a ''thump'' type explosion and fire shot out the front. What did i do wrong? Am I putting the nozzle to close to the entrance? I was thinking that possibly the fog vapor as it was leaking out of the hive caught an ignition from the hot coil?? i have no idea. But that hive is most certainly queenless now, not to mention the death toll of workers. And eggs/open brood? they coulda been flash burned too.
    -M@

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Greensboro, N.C.
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    I have heard of that happening with the burgess, but I have the bonide and have never seen or heard of it happening with them. I think I will stay with the Bonide.

  11. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Mason, MI, USA
    Posts
    1,015

    Default

    The burn back can happen with any fogger. It is caused by the fog blowing back to the burner and igniting. When I fog I keep the nozel about 1 foot away from the opening. I fog the opening for 5 seconds and move on. I do not remove the top of the hive but do see the fog comming out the top entrance. I make sure that I do not fog when the wind will blow the fog back at the fogger or me.
    Clint
    Clinton Bemrose<br />just South of Lansing Michigan<br />Beekeeping since 1964

  12. #32
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    eastern Hanover, Virginia
    Posts
    361

    Default 1 foot away

    that's where i messed up. i started putting the nozel a lot closer than i was doing before thinking that i was wasting too much fog since so much seemed to not be going in the hive. i'll back it up a bit.
    -M@

  13. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Lake county, Indiana 46408-4109
    Posts
    3,540

    Default

    I fog at an angle and it hasnt happened to me YET, never say never!!
    Ed, KA9CTT profanity is IGNORANCE made audible
    you can`t fix stupid not even with duct tape

  14. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Long Island, NY
    Posts
    278

    Default

    I like my Burguss 1443 propane fogger..It has flamed up on me once, in the year I have owned it.. That was i believe from my error,to close to my rear of the hive opening,aka, a built in varroa mite tray draw..I lost my queen and a bunch of bees this past Memorial Day weekend...But,I still have a bunch of bees left,a flow is going on ( black locust, smart weed, and a little Russiian Olive,and plenty more....... I added
    a 2nd super of PermsComb today (Med.Super) as the first Med.of PermaComb is already almost full.. Along with a shallow of mostly drawn comb, and a few with wax foudation on Top...I have a Queen excluder just under the top shallow...Theres a good flow going om, I want to take advantage....advise, exprthankseirance speaking,,? thanks...Kevin
    Kevin M.

  15. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Sparta, Tennessee
    Posts
    2,139

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by iddee View Post
    I have heard of that happening with the burgess, but I have the bonide and have never seen or heard of it happening with them. I think I will stay with the Bonide.
    Well I took Iddee's and others advice and purchased a Bonide. I am looking forward to using it when I get some thymol in the mail....paid for it this morning.

    Now I was talking to a friend of mine yesterday who suggested that I don't treat splits by fogging since the splits typically have lower levels of mites. Thoughts?

    My favorite NYS Bee Inspector, Peter Borst who is quite the beeman, inspected my hives at one of my yards yesterday. He said the mite count was 4 per hundred in one of the original hives (not split). So I am going to hit them with FGMO and thymol, starting this week for three weeks.

    Anyway, I am still regressing all of my hives but it's a slower process then I anticipated...

  16. #36
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    enterprise, florida
    Posts
    116
    Ive read the whole thread about fogging. I'm a new bee keep and I would like to know more about the fog method. I am going to purchase a fogger and I need to know the recipe.

  17. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Greensboro, N.C.
    Posts
    5,080

  18. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Sparta, Tennessee
    Posts
    2,139

    Default

    I copied the below recipe from Iddee's link and from ClintonBemrose's post. My question is this the recipe for my Bonide?

    I noticed Sundances post but his recipe's seem to be for other type foggers.

    Thanks for your help in advance. I just am new to this and don't want to screw up.



    "1000cc FGMO.
    Remove 100cc into sealable Mason jar.
    Add 50 grams thymol crystals to reserved 100cc FGMO.
    Seal jar.
    Place pot with water on burner.
    Place jar with FGMO/Thymol in water bath.
    Slowly heat water and swirl mixture to dissolve crystals.
    When crystals are dissolved completely Solution may change color to amber.
    Add the remaining 900cc of FGMO and mix.
    Mixture is now ready for the fogger.
    Store tightly covered in the Mason jar.
    Store in a cool dry place.
    Use only 3 to 4 trigger squeezes per hive as needed for Varroa control

    From
    Dr. Pedro Rodreguz.
    FGMO"

  19. #39
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Greensboro, N.C.
    Posts
    5,080

    Default

    The recipe is for the bees, regardless of what fogger you use.

  20. #40
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    enterprise, florida
    Posts
    116

    Default

    You guys are amazing. The information that is exchanged here is priceless.You are all giving the planet a boost by helping each other keep bees. Thanks for the cooking lesson.

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