Yes we tried them and they didn't work for us. They were put on in the fall in ND and didn't seem to drop any mites. The temp. was in the range it was supposed to be in so I don't know why they didn't work. It was a rather expensive experiment but it might work better in other areas for other beekeepers.
I would like to hear if anyone had great success with mite away II.
I've used Miteaway II twice, with very different results. In Fall 2005, temperatures were in the 50's and 60's and the pads weren't very effective. In Fall 2006, temps were in the mid to high 70's during the first week of the treatment, and I wrapped all of the hives with plastic wrap around the top super, shim, and inner cover to seal everything but the bottom entrance. I had huge mite drops, and the bees seemed to recover well after the pads were removed. It appears to me that having temperatures in the high 70's for the first few days is essential to have the pads be effective. My bees look very healthy right now, and I will use this method again as needed in the future.
Just when I think I got it going right, you guys interject things I just took for granted. I just presumed that the Formic Acid Pads worked for me. I didn't do a mite drop count....maybe I take it a step further and count mites....is it worth it?
I have been using formic Acid last two years with very good results.
Timing is everything. The most effective time is early August. That is the time that Varroa peaks and the bee population start shrinking.
You should take the supers and treat. If there is any honey flow, the bees will store it in the two deeps that they overwinter, so there is no need for fall feeding. After 21 days you still can put a supper and with some lack, you will get something.
Treating with formic Acid is a balancing act, compromise between bees and honey.
I think it is worth it.
I tried spring treatment with FA with mix results because of the low temps.
It's usually 100 deg. F in Idaho in august I would think you would fry a hive with mite away. I was told if it got over 85 deg. F for very long you would see brood loss and queen problems. That is why it can't be used as an early fall treatment in most of the U.S.?
Nick,
I called the company a day or 2 ago and was told by a rep that the ideal temperature range was daytime highs between 50 and 79 degrees F. The gal I spoke with said nightime lows didn't matter as the hive would be kept warm from the inside, and that the temps in the first week of treatment were the most important as that is the period in which most of the chemical was released.
I was curious about this as a Spring treatment for a friend of mines hives in Bend, OR but the daytime highs there are very erratic this time of year.
I think it works great here in my area. I've used it for both spring (late april early may) and late august early september fall treatments.
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