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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    El Dorado County, CA
    Posts
    605

    Post

    im going to be making about 1200 top bars this winter and cutting the guides in seems like the way to go. is a router the tool of choice? is a table model required or will a hand type work? does a router work for rabbits? as a side note i got my first table saw and air stapler this year and wish id done it sooner.
    all that is gold does not glitter

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    45,925

    Post

    I cut my triangular guides off of the corner of a one by and nailed and glued them to the top bars.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    1,525

    Post

    What happened to the popsickle sticks?

    Hawk
    KC0YXI

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    El Dorado County, CA
    Posts
    605

    Post

    ive used with succes popsickle sticks,hemp cord and shaping with the table saw. what im going for now is 1) a bit quicker production and 2) bars that are one piece with no glue nails etc. i have this notion that i might present bars of comb straight from the hive similar to the days when people would get their honey in the frame. i think i miss spelled rabbet above. and a hand held router is probably called a plunge router. im also wondering wether a router is good for dove tails. i got an inexpensive table saw and realize to late dadoe blades are not reccomended. those pop sickle sticks are covered in wax and bees [img]smile.gif[/img]
    all that is gold does not glitter

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    45,925

    Post

    >i got an inexpensive table saw and realize to late dadoe blades are not reccomended.

    I have a Dado for a cheap saw, but it will only adjust to about 5/8" or so. It's a wobble blade. [img]smile.gif[/img]
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Evansville, IN, USA
    Posts
    2,837

    Post

    I cut top bar "blanks" w/ a saw.

    Staring w/ 1x12 pine boards, rip strips desired width of TB (mine are 1-1/16").

    Cross-cut strips in desired length (mine are 19").

    I use a hand-held (not plunge) router attached to a "router table" (see tool catalogs - mine is homemade) for the following.

    Using a straight-cut router bit same width as end-bars (mine are 5/16"), cut each end of "19" blanks" to accept end-bars. (6 cuts reqd)

    For regular "foundation-reqd" bars - on saw, rip "rabbet" for foundation. I use 2 cuts (passes) and save scrap for attaching foundation.

    For "tappered" bars, on saw, rip angles on both sides of top bar bottom instead of rabbet.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    El Dorado County, CA
    Posts
    605

    Post

    thanks for the input! this coming season i might try somthing differant. the idea is to spend the time putting guides on only about the fist 15 or so bars. i believe that its good during build up to insert blank bars between combs to keep them straight-those bars dont need guides the comb guides them.
    all that is gold does not glitter

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