rabbited hives

[bluegrass]

I tried to make a medium super with rabbited joints instead of box joints. The outcome is great. I think I will do more this way as it is alot easier than box jointing and seems to be as strong.
http://s14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...128/Bee%20box/
I tried to post a link, if the pictures don't come up let me know and I will re-do it.
anybody wants to try this and needs the wood demensions just shoot me a pm.

[size="1"][ January 30, 2007, 04:52 PM: Message edited by: bluegrass ][/size]

[balhanapi]

Hi bluegrass, looks like you cut the rabbet only on one side, does this type of rabbet joint hold as good as (or better) than cutting the rabbet on both sides i.e on both the pieces to be joined?
Nice clean work though.. [img]smile.gif[/img] and looks easier too..

[bluegrass]

It feels good to me. Cutting rabbits on both pieces takes too much fine tuning of the router. I have tried it but, my router table is not that precises. I was looking at the "you build it" plans on here and seen that the five frame Nucs are only rabbited on one side, so I figured why not for the super? I think I might use dowels in the future to peg the joints instead of screws.

[size="1"][ January 30, 2007, 05:33 PM: Message edited by: bluegrass ][/size]

[Michael Palmer]

>does this type of rabbet joint hold as good as (or better) than cutting the rabbet on both sides i.e on both the pieces to be joined?

Check the Newsletter Archive/
March 2006/Shop Notes
www.vtbeekeepers.org

[Sundance]

Running a rabbet on one side has the advantage
of less end grain exposed to the elements. My
limited experience says it is very strong if
used with a quality glue.

[balhanapi]

Thanks Michael, It was informative! esp with sketches alongside, it makes much more sense..
You explained it nicely.

[greenbeekeeping]

Hi. I have alot of old homemade boxes that I have aquired over the last few years. Those boxes seem to be holding up as well as standard box joints. I agree with sundance's comments on the grain and glue.

Matt

[George Fergusson]

That's how I do them Bluegrass. I actually do mine on a table saw. Don't have a router. Actually I do, I just don't have all the bits I need.

[Michael Palmer]

You use a dado blade George? Stackable or adjustable? I had an adjustable dado once. It lives in Lake Champlain, now. Good place for it.

[bluegrass]

I used a 1/2 inch dado bit. I set the fence at 3/8ths and then just had to lower and raise the router from 5/8th to 3/4. Worked out well. Alot easier than the box joint as my router table and tablesaw is rolled into one. When I have the box joint jig set up I am unable to use the tablesaw, but with the rabbits I can use both as needed.

[TwT]

I just a use a adjustable dado blade for mine, I only cut one side also, the frame ends ....

[Sundance]

I run an Oldham stackable dado and like it
quite a bit. I have a router but the table
saw is faster for me.

[wayacoyote]

Bluegrass, I agree. I've used rabbets to date, until my girl's father helped build a box joint jig for his shop.

The only drawback I've seen are it can by a bit tricky (IF you don't pay attention) to get the sides flush. But with glue, I've found them to be sturdy enough.

Waya

[mwjohnson]

I visted a friend recently who has kept bees for over 50 years.
I just noticed for the first time that he makes his boxes with just one rabbet,for the frame rest.
He butt joints the end pieces between the side pieces...
I liked it for it's quick and dirty appeal [img]smile.gif[/img]

>I set the fence at 3/8ths and then just had to lower and raise the router from 5/8th to 3/4.Worked out well.<

That's great.
I think I woulda locked up my cutter height, either router or saw, and then just reset my fence...but then it's just a personal preference thing.

Have fun!

[flathead]

Rabbets for me.

We use a dado set-up on a table saw.

http://zacharyfarmsllc.com/rabbet_joints.htm

[odfrank]

I just renovated some rabbit joint deeps, nailed, made from fir, 30 years old, in excellent condition. They have not been outside all of those years.

[bluegrass]

"That's great.
I think I woulda locked up my cutter height, either router or saw, and then just reset my fence...but then it's just a personal preference thing."
My router fence is the type that screws hold it in place once you set it up. It is easier to adjust the depth with the adjuster ring on the router than it is to loosen up the fence and move that.

[bluegrass]

I switched up and did a double rabbit today; it is easier to get the box square that way. The down side being that the frame rests cant be cut all the way across like with a one sided rabbit.

[ekrouse]

After juggling hammer, nails, and framing square I build a nailing jig for supers a couple of years ago. Basically it is an oversized piece of 3/4" plywood for the bottom with about a 1" stip glued and screwed to the base on two sides to form an "L" (that's what keeps it square). The other two sides have a thick wedge (think 2" wide triangle) glued and screwed to the base. After gluing up the boxes, put them in the jig and tap a couple of smaller wedges between the boxes and the glued down wedges (triangles). This snugs up the boxes and holds them in place while you nail them together (I use a Senco pneumatic nailer/stapler). For the sake of being perfection, I use a couple of pipe clamps on the top of the boxes before nailing to get that extra snug fit.

-Eric

[Atlas]

Bluegrass,
Your hand hold slot looks a little narrow. Do you think you will get a good enough hold when the supers are full of honey? I know my hands would not fit in those slots with gloves on, how about yours? You might consider taking anther pass with the router to widen the slot. Or maybe not, what do you think?