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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
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    I have pictures on my website now of the steps I'm using to cut ten frame boxes to eight frame boxes and ten frame SBB from Brushy Mt to eight frame SBB.

    It's down more towards the bottom of the page.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Devils Lake, North Dakota
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    Fantastic and thanks. I was wondering how to overcome the corner box joint issue.

    I am leaning heavily toward 8 frame myself, even if I will be pollinating. Heck I only have 70 or so older used 10 framers now.

    If almond groweres are accepting 1 deep and 1 medium as a colony, then 2 deep 8 framers should be accepted.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
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    Or three 8 frame mediums. [img]smile.gif[/img]
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    Devils Lake, North Dakota
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    If I didn't have 350 deep frames already small cell 1st gen I would switch.

    Got to live with deeps for brood me thinks.

    Sure wish I'd known/understood about shaving frames down before I put the nail in for wiring......

    So by getting an extra frame in you decrease the cell size on the horizontal axis?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
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    Actually by shaving them down I get smaller cells in diameter which, in turn, causes smaller cells on the horizontal axis. I think the bees make the decision of cell size based on the spacing and decisions on spacing based on cell size. Of course this circular rleationship relates to the fact that no one bee sees any of this through so they all take up where they believe the work left off and choose the size based on their perception of the intended use. Since natural brood combs are spaced 1 1/4" they perceive this is brood comb. Since 1 3/8" is usually not brood spacing in a natural sized comb hive, it is percieved to be something in between brood and storage. I would also make the casual observation that they seem to put less drone brood on 1 1/4" spaced frames than 1 3/8" spaced frames. Serious honey storage is usualy spaced 1 1/2" or more (often a lot more).

    I do run nine brood frames in an eight frame box and seven frames in an eight frame super.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    Devils Lake, North Dakota
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    I'm sold....

    Any ideas on how to shave the end bars with drawn comb? Tricks??

    Any ideas on how to remove the one wiring nail in the way without screwing up the wiring?? Staple perhaps in the side??

    Thanks

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
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    >Any ideas on how to shave the end bars with drawn comb?

    I've done it with a plane. I suppose it could be done on a table saw, but I haven't tried it.

    >Any ideas on how to remove the one wiring nail in the way without screwing up the wiring??

    Tough. Luckily the eight frame boxes will almost hold nine frames already. You might get by with just taking the 1/16th off of the one side without the nail and still get 9 frames in. They'd be spaced 1 5/16". Removing the nail AT ALL is a pain. Without messing up the wiring would be very hard.


    >Staple perhaps in the side??

    But how to get the wire wrapped around it in such a way that it will hold? The few I wired, I nailed below the spacer because I already knew I'd want to plane them down sooner or later.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
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    Devils Lake, North Dakota
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    I understand.

    I will shave only one side on the already in use frames as I go.

    Have you thought about putting together a pamphlet for a begining small cell beekeeper??

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
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    >Have you thought about putting together a pamphlet for a begining small cell beekeeper??

    Good idea. I did think about splitting the info out into a beginners guide, a guide for experienced beekeepers and an all around book. But maintaining them seperately might take more work.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Devils Lake, North Dakota
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    It would be great to have for starters, regardless of past beekeeping experience. I count myself as fortunate to have started on foundation at least.

    Thanks

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    White County, Arkansas
    Posts
    874

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    I agree Sundance! Michael that would be awesome. The following is IMHO... Initially I think it may be a bit of a hassle. Granted you may have to use different teminology for us rookies compared to all the old hands out there. But after you're done it shouldn't be too much to maintain.

    Either way Michael I think it would be awesome. Thanks!!! David

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Devils Lake, North Dakota
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    David....... I found the main hassle is the extra labor..... Lots of it dealing with waxing, wiring, etc.

    When, and if, I can afford it, I will be going with plastic frames and foudation units dipped in wax.

    But in the long run it pays big dividends. My state inspection in July showed zero mites.

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