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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    The Hudson Valley, NY
    Posts
    297

    Post

    I'd like to build some migratory lids.

    Are plans available online, or can someone just describe the critical dimensions?

    Is there some accomodation made for bee-space above the frame tops, so the bee there are not cruched when the cover is put on?

    Thanks, Patrick

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    45,925

    Post

    Depending on the frames and the frame rests and the boxes, some boxes end up with 1/4" beespace at the top. This is adequate. Some end up with less and then bees get squished. I end up with some migratory covers with a spacer glued and nailed around the edge and some without for that reason.

    My favorite are to take some 3/4" Exterior plywood and cut it 16 1/4" by 21 5/8" and cut two one by twos 16 1/4" and nail then on edge for cleats. The plywood warps less than anything else. Otherwise you need to make them out of tongue and groove pine.

    I also make some lighter ones (that blow off eaiser) out of 1/4" laun. They are nice for hiving swarms and such because they are lighter in weight and easy to carry around. The laun plywood is exterior glue also and stands up well to the weather.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    The Hudson Valley, NY
    Posts
    297

    Post

    Thanks for explaining that. It seems like it is most desirable to have 1/4 inch free above the frames.

    I'm asking because this winter I'd like to put my hives up against each other in groups of 3 or 4 to preserve warmth for over-wintering. The telescoping lids get in the way.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Córdoba, SPAIN
    Posts
    1

    Default Re: Migratory Lid Plans

    More pics from the web (dimensioned)

    migratory flat wooden cover.jpg

    Material List:

    pine
    2 - 3/4 x 2 1/4 x 16 1/4 (14'' 8 frame) - gooved 3/4 x 1/4'' deep
    2 - 3/4 x 2 x 16 1/4 (14'' 8 frame)

    marine plywood (or equivalent timber)
    1 - 3/4 x 20 7/8 x 16 1/4 (10 frame) (x 14 - 8 frame)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    660

    Default Re: Migratory Lid Plans

    This is mine, see the link for more information. It can be used as a top entrance and also as a base as well, I just use a hive mat with them (sheet of vinyl placed directly on top of the frames with a gap around the outsides).

    http://www.beesource.com/forums/show...ottom-entrance

    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Rockford, MI
    Posts
    2,538

    Default Re: Migratory Lid Plans

    Pat,
    You can always take 1 1/2" to 2" foam board insulation and sandwich them in between the hives. If desired, you can top the hives with plastic covered plywood to keep everything dry.

  7. #7

    Default Re: Migratory Lid Plans

    A lot of the ones I saw at Miles to go was just the same size as a box with a piece of 3/4 or 1" wood ran around the border of the 3/4 plywood. The nice thing about this is you could use it for a candy board.
    David

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Cookeville, TN, USA
    Posts
    4,006

    Default Re: Migratory Lid Plans

    If you actually build a spacer (bigger than bee space) that you can't remove into your covers the bees will surely fill it with comb in the spring.

    I Make mine out of Advantech and instead of cleats I use square blocks attached so that just the corners touch the hive body - thus giving hive beetles one less place to hide. The advantech is very durable and warp resistant, but if not protected from the weather it will dish slightly upward over time and hold water. I cover them with trim metal which seems to keep them fresh forever.
    Since '09-25H-T-Z6b

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    SW Missouri
    Posts
    55

    Default Re: Migratory Lid Plans

    Quote Originally Posted by David LaFerney View Post
    instead of cleats I use square blocks attached so that just the corners touch the hive body - thus giving hive beetles one less place to hide.
    Could you please elaborate?
    Or better yet, "a picture is worth a thousand words".
    I'm getting ready to build some migratory covers and would rather do it right the first time.
    Thanks.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Cookeville, TN, USA
    Posts
    4,006

    Default Re: Migratory Lid Plans

    You know I looked for a picture when I posted that, because "a picture is worth...." Went through my mind - but I don't have any. I will try to take one tomorrow and post it.
    Since '09-25H-T-Z6b

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Jefferson Co, TX
    Posts
    599

    Default Re: Migratory Lid Plans

    Matt - I saw that picture the last time you posted it. Went and grabbed what was left of my last sheet a plywood and made some of those for myself for testing. Excellent Idea is my conclusion after a week of field testing.

    Need to make a few more.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Brasher Falls, NY, USA
    Posts
    26,788

    Default Re: Migratory Lid Plans

    westernbeekeeper has a thread he started today "100 Migratory Covers" or something like that.
    Mark Berninghausen "That which works, persists."

  13. #13
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Cheyenne, Wyoming, USA
    Posts
    1,693

    Default Re: Migratory Lid Plans

    Here it is: http://www.beesource.com/forums/show...=1#post1021759 Hopefully you can find it helpful!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Cookeville, TN, USA
    Posts
    4,006

    Default Re: Migratory Lid Plans

    Quote Originally Posted by plcnut View Post
    Could you please elaborate?
    Or better yet, "a picture is worth a thousand words".
    I'm getting ready to build some migratory covers and would rather do it right the first time.
    Thanks.


    That is an 1 1/2" feeder shim above the dovetailed super - not part of the lid. The blocks are securely glued. SHB have to go somewhere else to hide.



    Advantech works well for this - plywood probably would not, because it would be too prone to warp.

    I like a little bit of overhang all around, but I have a few that are flush on the sides too. It will all work.
    Since '09-25H-T-Z6b

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Brasher Falls, NY, USA
    Posts
    26,788

    Default Re: Migratory Lid Plans

    Overhanging migratory lids make loading pallets of hives on a semi cumbersome.
    Mark Berninghausen "That which works, persists."

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Cookeville, TN, USA
    Posts
    4,006

    Default Re: Migratory Lid Plans

    Of course to actually be migratory lids for migrating they need to be flush. For me the key feature is that they don't require an inner cover.

    I have some that are flush on the sides too, but since I don't move hives like that, and I like overhangs because I imagine they keep everything dryer - most of mine have them. The point of the picture is the blocks instead of the usual cleats. Not a big deal, just something I came up with, tried, and decided I liked. So I shared it.

    I also really like the built up feeder hole, and the metal covering. I like those features so much that I went to considerable effort to modify all of my various covers to incorporate those two things. I even put the built up feeder holes on all of my tele covers - right over the hole in the inner covers. And put metal skins on lids that already had built ups - pretty tedious until I figured out how to go about it. That is actually one in the bottom picture that has had metal added after the built up.
    Since '09-25H-T-Z6b

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