PDF "box Joint' file

[DonShackelford]

It's $148 bucks now! I'll stick with box joints on the table saw BUT I hope it goes on sale again. Nice reason to buy more tools!

$20 is deducted for orders over $100 at checkout. It is still $128.

[ralittlefield]

Using a box joint, does the frame rest rabbit have to be done with a router after assembly?

No, you can cut the frame rest before you assemble the box.

[DonShackelford]

No, you can cut the frame rest before you assemble the box.

I guess I'm a little confused as usual. If I cut the frame rest all the way through the end boards, then put it in a box joint jig, will there not be an open gap?

[ralittlefield]

I do not use box joints. I use half blind dovetails, but I would think that you could lay out your box joint so that a pin on the side board fills end of the frame rest.

Edit to add link: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...QEwAQ&dur=1125

If your frame rest is 5/8" deep, and the pin from the side board is 3/4", you should have no problem.

[Daniel Y]

I guess I'm a little confused as usual. If I cut the frame rest all the way through the end boards, then put it in a box joint jig, will there not be an open gap?

One, not if you cut it double blind. that is short of each end by 3/4 inch.

Second, reverse how the fingers and notches are cut in comparison tot he PDF you find on this group. The top of each side becomes a finger rather than a notch. the top of each end becomes a notch. You can then cut the rabbit end to end and when assembled that top finger closes the end of the rabbit.

[DonShackelford]

One, not if you cut it double blind. that is short of each end by 3/4 inch.

Second, reverse how the fingers and notches are cut in comparison tot he PDF you find on this group. The top of each side becomes a finger rather than a notch. the top of each end becomes a notch. You can then cut the rabbit end to end and when assembled that top finger closes the end of the rabbit.

Thanks Daniel, I knew there had to be a work around. I normally cut the frame rests on a table saw, so leaving the ends uncut would be a pain.

[Cleo C. Hogan Jr]

I use the same dado set that makes the box joints to make the frame rest. The same dado also makes the side groove in the bottom board, and the rabbet around the board that makes the top, if you are using metal covered tops. A good dado set does a lot.

cchoganjr

[Barry]

One, not if you cut it double blind. that is short of each end by 3/4 inch.

Second, reverse how the fingers and notches are cut in comparison tot he PDF you find on this group. The top of each side becomes a finger rather than a notch. the top of each end becomes a notch. You can then cut the rabbit end to end and when assembled that top finger closes the end of the rabbit.

Cutting a double blind dado is what the plans call for. Reversing the pin order will give you a weaker corner when prying against the first frame and top corner pin. Made according to the plans, you have a top pin with a nail/screw in it verses a "floating" pin.

They're just plans, so do what suits you.

[Cleo C. Hogan Jr]

Daniel Y... Barry...Let me see if I understand what you are saying. If you make the top sides a finger, and the top of front/rear a valley wouldn't that make the sides weaker since you would be nailing the side into a 3/8 piece of wood, (front and rear minus the rabbet), vrs nailing from the front/rear into the side which is 3/4.

cchoganjr

[Barry]

That's correct Cleo. You want the full top finger to be on the front and back pieces, not the sides.

[Cleo C. Hogan Jr]

Barry..Didn't we have this same discussion last Winter when someone posted that Kelly was changing their box joints to the front/back valley and the sides with fingers.

I am editing this post. I found the photo of where I made a nuc last Winter, using the front/valley, sides/fingers concept.

New Box Joint.jpg

cchoganjr

[minz]

Now I am missing something because if the wood joint is solid (laminated) all the way from the top to the bottom why would one way of cutting fingers be any weaker than the other? Your still prying on solid wood correct?
I may have to see if I can get that jig on sale. If it is 42 lbs the shipping may hurt.

[Cleo C. Hogan Jr]

minz..It all has to do with the top joint. The point where most people pry apart boxes. On the front/finger joint you are nailing/gluing a 3/8 thinckness into 3/4 inch of wood, (the half cut on the side). On the front/valley joint you are nailing from the 3/4 side into a 3/8 inch of wood (because the rabbet has been cut away from the front. I don't recommend prying apart boxes by prying from the end, rather pry from solid wood along the edge, whichever joint system you use.

Look at the photo above, you will notice I had to use a # 4 nail because it is going into a 3/8 thickness at the top. If everyone did their prying along the sides, it would not make much difference. But, if you pry from the end, you are prying against 3/8 inch vrs 3/4 inch. Hope this has been confusing enough. If not I can try again. HA!!

[Daniel Y]

You can nail the top finger from the top edge of the box downward without loosing any material for it to bite into. I pin all 8 corners of my boxes this way. pre drilling helps with keeping the wood from splitting but you should be doing that anyway. You can also somewhat toe nail the finger from the side. just angle the nail downward so it is driven in below the frame rest. I prefer from the top down method myself.

[Barry]

minz..It all has to do with the top joint. The point where most people pry apart boxes.

For me, it's more noticeable when trying to pry the frames away from the side. That's where one is pushing against that top pin.

[Cleo C. Hogan Jr]

That's true. I normally try to pry the outside frame loose by using the 2d frame and pry from the middle, rather than against the side of the box.

cchoganjr