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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Germantown, TN
    Posts
    23

    Post

    Has anyone built a miller type feeder. I have seen the plans for it on this site. However, I would like to see some actual pictures of it. I feel like I have the general idea of it, but would like to be certain. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    North Alabama, SW Kentucky
    Posts
    1,914

    Post

    I have not made one yet, but intend to soon. Here is a link to one that I like a bit better and will give you another view.
    http://website.lineone.net/~dave.cushman/natsplit.html

    The only real difference in the two that I have seen is where the holes are shown to be cut in the plywood or masonite base.

    I think Dave suggests putting some #8 screen down where the bees will be feeding to prevent them from drowning or from getting over into the syrup container when it is dry.

    I intend to cover the entire top with #8 mesh to prevent bees from robbing when I fill the feeder. I can still pour syrup through the mesh.

    The trick, of course, will be to get tight, water-proof joints. I think Kelley includes some sealant with theirs. Tight joints and water proof glue should help. I have also heard people suggest turning it upside down over a hive to let the bees propolise the joints. But I can't do that this year as I need them quickly.

    I have seen plans for a feeder which the bees entered on one end instead of the center. I like the center access better because it is right above the cluster, and you only have to fill one side if you want.

    Let me know if you come up with any new ideas to add.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Bartonville, TX USA
    Posts
    456

    Post

    I have used 2 part epoxy to create a waterproof barrier that lasts for many years. It is messy to work with but you can roll it on. With wood it will penetrate and form an extremely strong container that is resistant to most everything. Be sure and allow to fully cure before putting in hive. It will gas for a few days while it fully cures. Also a good idea to scrub it out with a scratch pad to remove what they call the amaline haze or something like that - it is a haze of chemical that migrates to the surface during curing.

    When your done you have a very 'inert' strong waterproof box that will last for 30+ years. Better than plastic, easier and cheaper than sheet metal.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    North Alabama, SW Kentucky
    Posts
    1,914

    Post

    WF,
    This is off topic, but would that 2part work for sealing a wood-strip canoe? The plans I have call for using fiberglass cloth over the wood on inside and out. I want to keep the canoe light, however, and my Dad insists that I will loose that with fiberglass.

    I want to make one big enough for me and the dog to camp with. Then I also have some plans for a tiny 1-person kayak type stream runner. I thought about wood-stripping it too to protect against rocks in our variable streams.
    Thanks
    Coyote

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Lexington, KY, USA
    Posts
    504

    Post

    Hi Gone2dlake et al,
    I have built a Miller Feeder just as shown in the plans here. I did coat the inside of both end troughs with epoxy (Bondo at Wal-Mart)and it worked great. I think I did two coats though. Make sure that you get the two parts mixed well otherwise you have some sticky spots! I did put #8 screening in the troughs but had to do it again and solder some strips down the sides as the girls did find a way in the trough and drwoned. Now it works well. I modified the inner cover by cutting 3" holes and glued on some plexiglass to see the levels. I also have some holes that fit a funnel for filling and have little wooden covers over them, kinda spoon shaped with a screw in the "handle". It works as I have a nice neighbor who is afraid of them but still looks out for them during our absences. Hope this helps, take care.

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