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  1. #61
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    4,898

    Post

    Feeding? What is feeding? My bees feed themselves. Just make sure the front door is open and they fly off and collect their own food, nectar and pollen. It's dogs, cats and livestock you feed, not bees.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    The Scenic Flint Hills , KS
    Posts
    5,159

    Post

    But Frank, we don't live in the promised land of milk and honey!

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    crown point, NY, USA
    Posts
    971

    Post

    Frank there very often is snow on the ground when installing package bees here. With a split or nuc I can do as you propose as I feed honey anyways. But having no establish hives in dadant hives puts me at a loss to do this. Nor do I no anyone selling dadant sized nucs.

    I wonder if the jumbo dadant could ever be popularized here in the US?


  4. #64
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    crown point, NY, USA
    Posts
    971

    Post

    Well I just wired my frames. I tried 3 different configurations to see what I like. All measurment s start at the top of the top bar and go down.

    first try was spacing 1 3/4- 5 wires- too far apart for me

    second try was 1 1/2- 6 wires- didn't like iteither

    third try was 41mm- 6 wires- I have a winner!

    When in doubt go metric The rest of the world does


  5. #65
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    4,898

    Post

    Clayton, are you threading six continuously? You must be ambidexterous. I have a hard enough time with four even after three decades of practice. Did you get some deep foundation from Dadant?

    I admit it, I do occasionally feed nucs and swarms drawing comb. The reason I was being sarcastic, is because we only get 20 inches of rain here, no snow, the temps rarely go below 40, the bees probably fly 350 days a year, our flow of Eucalyptus starts at Halloween, speeds up March thru June, is a bit slow in July and August, but is OK in Sept. and Oct. Last year a few hive made a medium of surplus Oct. thru Feb. If there was still open land available here, it would be the land of milk and honey for commercial beekeeping.

    One more suggestion: my jumbo inner covers have a very wide upper lip. With those I can use Langstroth size supers above the inner cover for jar feeding covers. For supering with Langstroth supers, I just cover the gap with a board. I only have 31 wide mediums for my 12 jumbos, so I always have to finish the season with Langstroth supers on top. I have a few Cobana jumbo supers and the jumbo hives work on them great.

  6. #66
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    4,898

    Post

    I posted a picture of my apiary in 2002, in the Yahoo group "Buckfast Beekeepers", with several of my jumbo hives stacked up with a great crop. One did 400 pounds. The jumbos regularly stack up right along or better than the Langstroths, even though they are wider and therefore have more honey. I there a place to post pictures at Beesource ?
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/buckfastbeekeepers/

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    crown point, NY, USA
    Posts
    971

    Post

    odfrank,

    >Clayton, are you threading six >continuously? You must be ambidexterous. I >have a hard enough time with four even >after three decades of practice. Did you >get some deep foundation from Dadant?

    Yes, continuously. I gotta admit it is a little tougher than wiring Lang hives. I can wire the 4 wires for a lang deep pretty well. But the 6 wires in these jumbo frames is a bit more challenging. But I can deal with that knowing that its a single brood chamber and I have to only do 12 frames per colony instead of the normal 30 frames I have to do with my lang hives with my 3 deep box setup.

    Do you have bee escapes built for these hives? How do you harvest?


  8. #68
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    46,212

    Post

    >Do you have bee escapes built for these hives? How do you harvest?

    I have a regular triangular bee escape with an board added on to the side to make it wide enough. Haven't used it on this yet, but have used it on a DE hive which is also square. The DE hive also required a stip of plywood on each end to make it shorter.

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    crown point, NY, USA
    Posts
    971

    Post

    odfrank,


    >Did you get some deep foundation from Dadant?

    Naw, I think I will make my own (4.9mm). I hope my dipping vat is wide enough or I'll have to get creative.


  10. #70
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    4,898

    Post

    I have used a gas blower since I started. Obnoxiously noisy but effective. A bit problematic late in the season after robbing has started. I bought a triangular escape board last year and used it on some hives in a dense residential neighorhood. Worked great and plan to make or buy a few more. Want to make the same kind on my extracting room windows. Future projects #974b and #975

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    46,212

    Post

    Well, so far these are my results with the Dadant Deep hive. I started them in a five frame nuc. I also started another package at the same time in a five frame medium nuc. I have expanded as necessary since and the Dadant deep has filled 10 frames and the medium has also filled 10 frames. Which puts the Dadant deep hive at about twice the sucess of the medium one. Of course this is only a sample of one of each size and hardly scientific in the long run, but I'm impressed so far. Especially when you consider I put small cell plastic in the Dadant deep and I have cut and scraped and thrown away a good portion of their work. I gave up and the plastic and am putting foundationless frame in instead.

    Despite all of that they have still filled twice as much spaces.

    I moved them into a 22 frame box today. It's the length of two 10 frame boxes (32 1/2")

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Ridgeway, VA , USA
    Posts
    72

    Post

    Where can I find some deep foundation for the dadant jumbo deep frames???
    In small cell.

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    46,212

    Post

    >Where can I find some deep foundation for the dadant jumbo deep frames???
    In small cell.

    You can't find ANY foundation in Dadant Deeps in the US that I know of. The small cell comes in any size you want as long as it's standard deeps. I just leave the 2" gap at the bottom or use a triangular comb guide all the way around and a steel rod in the center for support.

    BTW my double wide (32 1/2" 22 frame) Dadant deep hive swarmed before it filled it past frame 15. I was hoping it would do better than my other horizontal hives at not swarming. But not so far. It started as a 2# package in mid April and filled 15 frames and swarmed on Saturday. Not bad for three months work.


  14. #74
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    4,898

    Post

    Dadant and Swienty have normal cell size foundation for jumbo deep frames. With samll cell you'll have to splice or leave a gap for the bees to complete. I would splice, or you might end up with a lot of drome comb.

  15. #75
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    4,898

    Post

    "I gave up on the plastic and am putting foundationless frame in instead."

    Michael, I TOLD YOU SO. Why doesn't anybody ever listen to me? Thirty years you've been keeping bees and still wasting your and your bees time with plastic foundations. Tsk tsk...

  16. #76
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    46,212

    Post

    I never had that much problem with Rite Cell or Plasti Cell or DuraComb. It's that they aren't regressed and they can't rework plastic. But that's why thei don't like plastic in general, I think, because they can't rework it.

  17. #77
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Ridgeway, VA , USA
    Posts
    72

    Post

    odfrank,

    Are you suggesting not using any foundation
    or just not using plastic foundation?

    And are you using the foundationless frames
    with the regressed bees?

  18. #78
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    46,212

    Post

    I am using foundationless frames and regressing bees. Frank can explain what he's doing, but I'm pretty sure it's wood, wax and wire. The three "W"s.

  19. #79
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    San Mateo, CA
    Posts
    4,898

    Post

    Like Michael said, wax wood and wire. I have used several plastics over 35 years of beekeeping and found all of them inferior to wax. I use vertical wired with four horizontal wires. My small cells have not thrived. I have used Brother Adam size hives since 1978, and now have most of my hives on Jumbo frames, but many in Lang dimension boxes.

  20. #80
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    46,212

    Post

    I did some foundationless Dadant Deeps. They were an angled top bar, angled pieces on the end bars, an angled piece on the bottom bar and a 1/16" welding rod horizontally at the halfway point.

    The welding rod worked well and didn't disrupt their cell building hardly at all and provided a lot of support.

    The side angled pieces worked well and cause good solid attachment pretty much from top to bottom.

    The bottom, angled piece was ignored by the bees and the comb was not attached to the bottom at all.

    They worked well, but I won't bother with the bottom piece next time.

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