7.5 grams to 100 ml water

[tony350i]

Hi,

Before I try it I would like any feed back from anyone that has fogged with oxalic acid crystals and water for v mite control.

I got this but I was hoping there is some more feed back from this method
http://www.beesource.com/cgi-bin/ubb...=000339#000000

7.5 grams to 100 ml off water has been used, but I think I will use 2 grams to 100 ml so there is less chance off over dosing and see how it goes from there.


Tony

[size="1"][ November 12, 2006, 02:39 AM: Message edited by: tony350i ][/size]

[Finman]

.
If some method is tested numerous times, is it worth to find your own trick?

.

[Michael Bush]

>Before I try it I would like any feed back from anyone that has fogged with oxalic acid crystals and water for v mite control.

I'm not aware of anyone who has fogged with oxalic acid crystals and water. Evaporating crystals and trickling oxalic in water are the only two methods I know of with maybe a variation of spraying instead of trickling the solution.

[Finman]

.
I thought same what Michael says.

Trickling formula is 100 ml water + 100 g sugar +7,5 g oxalic acid. That juice makes bees "dirty" and acid spreads on bee bodies.

The measure of oxalic acid has tested what is effective.

.

[Michael Bush]

Your link is where the concept was discussed, but I still don't know of anyone who has tried it and I would stick with one of the two proven methods, myself.

When evaporating you don't use NEAR as much oxalic as when trickling. I don't know what happens when you put it in water and evaporate it. You may overdose them with that much.

[Axtmann]

I don’t think it works with water. When you put saltwater in a pot and the water evaporates salt I still in the pot. The water evaporates approx at 100° C / 212F° and OA evaporates approx 185°C / 365°F.
IMO when you mix OA and water and heat it up fast enough that both evaporates the same time, the hot water steam kills your bees.

[D. Murrell]

Hi Guys,

Please don't get me wrong. I'm not trying to trash anyone's ideas. But I'm rather concerned by this idea of fogging oxalic. What is the purpose for it?

Has fogging food grade motor oil failed? Did adding thymol fix it? It it too labor intensive?

If the fgmo method failed and oxalic works why combine the fogger with oxalic acid? Are there problems with oxalic's distribution, labor required, cost, etc.?

If so, then what should be the first question that's asked? I think it should concern the safety of the operator, especially with oxalic, which is far different than fgmo or thymol. Mess up with oxalic and you will never do it again, I promise you!

I think the cost alone, of the safety equipment necessary to protect someone using an oxalic fogger would discourage it's use. And the risk of contaminating the area outside the hive is significant. If anyone is thinking of fogging oxalic without the proper safety equipment, let me know what you think when you, your children and/or neighbors get out of the hospital!

Second, when proven methods of using oxalic are safe, readily and cheaply available, why use something else? It's just so easy to do it right. And once you've tried oxalic the right way, the fogger will become nothing more than a beekeeping boat anchor. It just takes too much work and causes too much disruption for the results that are achieved. Give it or throw it away. One less thing to mess with :&gt


Regards
Dennis

[tony350i]

You all give some good advice, so I will go for the trickling and play safe.
I donÂ’t want to loss my almost regressed bees trying a method that hasnÂ’t been tested.

Thanks
Tony

[Finman]

Tony, you are in England and if you use national hives, they are smaller than Langstroths.

Find out how much you give oxalic liguid into frame gaps.

And final result you see after 10 days.

[tony350i]

Yes I do use national hives but with 12 brood frames.

So I need this https://secure.thorne.co.uk/images/shop/syringe3.jpg

And this https://secure.thorne.co.uk/images/shop/oxalic.jpg

And when I order it they should be able to tell me how much to use.

Thanks

Tony

[size="1"][ November 13, 2006, 05:07 PM: Message edited by: tony350i ][/size]

[jamiev]

I trickled one hive last week with the 3 % OA in sugar/water soluution/ 5 ml between each frame. I used the formula and application method as advised on this forum. There are hundreds if not thousands of dead mites on the bot board. Its been really warm today ..50's ! Bees seem to be doing ok too.
i agree with Finman. I would not deviate from this tried and tested method. Plus trickling is easy.. no special equipment needed!!

[Sundance]

Just how cold can you do the trickling in
degrees F???

[jamiev]

I did trickling in 47 degrees; F That may be the coldest I would try. Any colder I presume would be bad for the cluster trying to stay warm . I only trickled the top two of four mediums. I also did a quick application to the next med down (3rd from the top) but I did not do all of the frame openings as I did not want to completely remove the chamber above it. Bottom was is empty anyway.
I thought I was lucky to get these warm days here on Dec 1 st, but that was not the last of warm weather...it is high 50 s today if you can believe it. This is extremely warm and very unusual for Dec in Upstate NY. A few bees are still flying in and out of all three hives.

I counted mites at 12 days after trickling.
835 + - dead mites on the bottom board. At 14 days there are about 40 more.

[Finman]

.
I disturbed my hive yesterday near freezing point when I changed the inner cover. After that I measured the hive temperature and it was 109F (42,8 C)