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Thread: Mineral Oil

  1. #1

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    I find there's a lot of different grades of Mineral Oil . :confused: What grades are you using and where are you buying it at?
    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Food Grade
    small amounts=Droug store, the stuff that makes you GO.
    Ed, KA9CTT profanity is IGNORANCE made audible
    you can`t fix stupid not even with duct tape

  3. #3
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    Search on here and you'll find many descriptions of what kind of oil to use and what kind not to use. But, as honeyman says, the stuff at the drug store that is used as a laxitive works fine.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  4. #4
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    Alpharetta, GA, USA
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    I'm using FGMO bought from the Walmart pharmacy dept. Back when Dr Rodriguez was still posting I even asked him if this was the right grade and he confirmed that it was.

  5. #5

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    Thanks for the Infomation . [img]smile.gif[/img]

  6. #6
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    -Hey Little John-NC, I get mine from STE.com. Someone you can contact is Sam Perez Phone number is (800)967-1931 x.25. I buy it by the 5 gallons The name of it is Crystal Plus 70FG.If you talk to Sam Perez super nice guy will tell you how it was tested for bee mites and about the viscosity that was tested for mite use. Little John weather you use it from the STE. company or not still do yourself a favor and call Mr. Perez about the testing. Take care JJ

  7. #7
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    I have 5 gallon and will sell it to you by the quart or gallon if you want to drive over to Greensboro.

  8. #8
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    Just don't buy it at the farm store. That's too heavy of a viscocity
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  9. #9
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    Missouri
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    How do you use it to control mites?

  10. #10
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    The most common method is to put it in a CLEAN propane insect fogger and fog it. There are variations including using cords with FGMO and beeswax and honey on them and adding thymol to the FGMO.

    The POV section USED to have Dr. Rodriguez's articles on it. Apparently he had them removed. There are in the old bee magazines. You can read all the old postings here on this forum.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  11. #11

  12. #12
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    With all due respect to the FGMO crowd, I prefer canola oil, largely due to the work of Bob Noel and Jim Amrine at West Virginia University.

    To it I add 5% thymol, and .5% each of wintergreen oil, pachouli oil, tea tree oil and eucalyptus oil. This works out to be approximately 1 tsp of each oil per quart of finished product, figuring 192 teaspoons per quart. I chose these oils for their anti-fungal and anti-viral qualities.

    A quart of canola oil weighs 30 ounces, and 1.5 ounces of thymol weighed on a digital postal scale yeilds a 5% thymol solution.

    As for mixing the thymol, I prefer to fill a quart jar 1/2 full of oil and heat it in the microwave until very warm to the touch (be careful), about 1-1/2 to 2 minutes (and yes, times will vary).

    I mix in the thymol crystals, stir until dissolved. It doesn't take really hot oil to dissolve the crystals.

    I add my other oils and fill with room temperature canola oil and screw on the lid to keep the container air-tight until I'm ready to fog.

    Again, at great risk of irritating the FGMO crowd, this is what works for me. I've fogged and counted mites in both treated and untreated hives. The plain FGMO just didn't work for me, as evidenced by my mite counts. Maybe I was applying it wrong.

    I never tried the cords, but I also find great benefits from canola oil-soaked shop towels laid across the top bars of the brood nest. If the bees will chew them up (some just propolyze them), it seems to be an added benefit.

    These are my thoughts and opinions. You are welcome to disagree without any uproar from me.

    Grant
    Jackson, MO
    Beekeeping With Twenty-five Hives: https://www.createspace.com/4152725

  13. #13
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    Well, be that way. If I'm not going to get an uproar, why should I waste my time disagreeing with you?

    What works is what I agree with. It may be one thing for one person and something else for others. By the time all our methods overlap each other, maybe we will have a truly resistant bee.

  14. #14
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    >With all due respect to the FGMO crowd, I prefer canola oil, largely due to the work of Bob Noel and Jim Amrine at West Virginia University.

    I doubt you'll get any disrespect for it. It's just that FGMO being inert doesn't turn rancid and Canola sometimes does. If you're worried about being organic, wouldn't it be better to not use a Genetically Modified plant oil?

    >To it I add 5% thymol, and .5% each of wintergreen oil, pachouli oil, tea tree oil and eucalyptus oil. This works out to be approximately 1 tsp of each oil per quart of finished product, figuring 192 teaspoons per quart. I chose these oils for their anti-fungal and anti-viral qualities.

    And these will probably help with the vegatable oil turning racid.

    >Again, at great risk of irritating the FGMO crowd, this is what works for me. I've fogged and counted mites in both treated and untreated hives.

    So how does the Canola fog? Is it more flammable? Does it clog up the fogger more?

    >The plain FGMO just didn't work for me, as evidenced by my mite counts. Maybe I was applying it wrong.

    Certainly plain FGMO doesn't have the knock down power that the oil and thymol does, but if you use it regularly it keeps knocking down some mites. You have to have about 25% efffectiveness in order to just keep the mites at a constant level during brood rearing. You have to have more to reduce the numbers any at all, before brood rearing stops. No treatment is very noticably effective during brood rearing.

    >I never tried the cords, but I also find great benefits from canola oil-soaked shop towels laid across the top bars of the brood nest. If the bees will chew them up (some just propolyze them), it seems to be an added benefit.

    Same concept except the cords last a bit longer.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  15. #15
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    So how does the Canola fog? Is it more flammable? Does it clog up the fogger more?
    Rob Koss

  16. #16
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    I mix the canola oil as I use it. It doesn't get rancid, or really doesn't get the chance. I haven't had any flammable problems. Advice was always to hold the fogger level.

    Clogging? Yes, it does clog after a while. The tip to my fogger screws off and I clean it out.

    And uproar? Previous opinions set off unexpected reactions from some people. My opinion of the beesource forums is to share thoughts and experience, as opposed to ascertain the "rightness" of anyone's practices. You all sound rather level headed and sensible.

    And my position is not to disagree with FGMO. I just use something different. If FGMO is your thing, then more power to you!

    Grant
    Jackson, MO
    Beekeeping With Twenty-five Hives: https://www.createspace.com/4152725

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