Results 1 to 20 of 20
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Wetumpka ,Alabama
    Posts
    511

    Post

    ok I know a few treat with fgmo,how many of you treat and what do you use?Good points ,bad points?
    I have heard of people using it with peppermint and other things?
    I want to get away from the chemicals..
    If you build it they will comb it.<br />Tim Rolan

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    43,509

    Post

    I'm not doing it now that I've regressed the bees to small cell, but when I did, I used just FGMO in a Burgess fogger once every week or two. Not more than once a week and not less than every two weeks. I was pleased with the results.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Zanesville, Ohio
    Posts
    98

    Post

    I treat with FGMO/Thymol. Honey had not after taste with Thymol. Dan
    Glad to be a part of this fourm

  4. #4

    Post

    I just started fogging with FGMO/ no thymol at this time, I want to chech the results of the FGMO alone before adding anything else.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    New Brunswick
    Posts
    103

    Post

    I use FGMO in a burgess smogger. I add 15 drops of wintergreen oil to a litre of mineral oil and treat every weekend. As a peace of mind thing, I treated with Miteaway formic acid pads this fall and results were less than 20 mites in the highest count hive in a 48 hour period and hardly any after that. I SMOG INTO THE ENTRANCE FOR SEVEN SECONDS. i ALSO USE SCREENED BOTTOM BOARDS WHICH i LEAVE ON ALL YEAR.
    sterlingc

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Erin, NY /Florence SC
    Posts
    3,364

    Post

    I did not this year but plan to over the winter and again in the spring when we do nucs. I would use thymol because I convinced then NY State Senator Kuhl to sink $50,000 of NYS state taxpayer money into dyce lab in either 95 or 96 and the main focus was thymol. I don't know if it works for sure but at least I'll feel like I'm getting some return on my investment!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Lexington, KY, USA
    Posts
    504

    Post

    We use FGMO with a Burgess fogger once a week during the warmer months. We seem to be successful as the varroa have been kept at a manageable level. We keep Oxalic Acid as a back-up if needed. None of it we see as a Silver Bullet. Take care and have fun.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Jamesport Long Island NY
    Posts
    145

    Post

    I use FGMO with a sbb, worked well this season.
    I am starting a change over to small cell this spring so I hopefully will not need it soon.

    Bill S

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    133

    Post

    SBB and FGMO only. I fog once a week in the warmer months. I've had some hives do extremely well while others had to be treated this fall with Apistan. I still think fogging helps some. I tend to agree with others, If I was using thymol in the mix, I probaly would not fog while honey supers are on. I know that's up for debate, but I'm not taking that chance.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Wetumpka ,Alabama
    Posts
    511

    Post

    Ok anyone have any experence using it against small hive beetles?Here we are over run with them..One reason I have not put sbb on my hives.I figure I would have a beetle population explosion if the bottoms were open..
    Anyone add peppermint or any other essential oils,extracts?
    Any thoughts?
    If you build it they will comb it.<br />Tim Rolan

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    lewisberry, Pa, usa
    Posts
    6,081

    Post

    King Bee, I am not sure of these comments so take them with a grain of salt, and I ask more than I am suggesting.

    Are you sure SHB can get through a screened bottom? I use #8 screen and it just seems that beetles would not get through, but again, I am not sure.
    Even if they can, to me its got to be a little like wax moths. They will wait till a cool night and enter whenever they can. If you go out about 30 minutes after dark with a flashlight, you can see all kinds of moths and beetles trying to enter.

    I do not use checkmite inside for V-mites, but have use it for SHB the first time I seen them here, and I freaked. Using checkmite with cardboard was very effective. It killed them all within days. I used a strip on the bottom and one on the inner cover of two infested hives. (they were overcome with wax moths and the beetles moved in, due to queenless situation) I would think one on the inner cover from time to time would keep them in check. The bees do not come into contact with the strips and I guess the only concern would be for the bees cleaning up any dead beetles. Most died under the cardboard. In Pennsyvania we have SHB but they seem to do no damage at this point.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    White County, Arkansas
    Posts
    872

    Post

    I've been using FGMO cords since I hived my ferals in the end of July. Haven't fogged but my mite drop has not exceeded seven a day.

    David

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    lewisberry, Pa, usa
    Posts
    6,081

    Post

    Using the cords can tell you alot of the hygenic behavior of your bees.
    One hive will ignore the cords. Another may propolize the cords entirely, while another may shred the cords and carry the pieces out the front door. I prefer to split and monitor the ones shredding the cords. I think it says alot about the hygenic behavior of the hives when they do this.

    I no longer do the cords or fog.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Wetumpka ,Alabama
    Posts
    511

    Post

    The small hive beetles themselves aren't the problem,it's the larva stage where they leave the hive and enter the ground to mature.In this stage they could go through the mesh wire with ease..I would hate to give them any type of advantage..I also used check-mite this past summer with very good luck other than one late split that died.Would not want to use it if I had supers on though.
    Just looking for a better way...
    If you build it they will comb it.<br />Tim Rolan

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    A french guy living in Chester, UK
    Posts
    133

    Post

    BjornBee

    Have you noticed any race of bees doing better than another one?

    When did you stop the cords and fog?
    how are you bees?

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    lewisberry, Pa, usa
    Posts
    6,081

    Post

    louis1st,
    I stopped FGMO two years ago. Its not that it does not have merit, but I can not fog weekly and as a stand alone control, from my experience, it needs other controls.

    My main line of bees is russian. I will keep italians only for commercial sales, although they go through the same process as my russians. Its just I lose alot more of the italians. The russians, in conjunction with an entire IPM strategy is doing very good. I have built into my operation a level of exceptable loss. I personally feel many beekeepers spend much more money in time and labor, along with chemical costs or treatments like FGMO, than they would ever spend if just doing things correctly and splitting or buying new queens every year.

    I prefer the russian, SMR bred bees and NWC.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Palestine, Tx. 75801
    Posts
    485

    Post

    I use FGMO/Thymol once every 2-weeks. I've had problems with Black Flag Fogger. I just purchased the Burgess 1443 and will start fogging with Fgmo every other week since I can keep the Thymol/FGMO mixture in a pint jar, and the fgmo in a jar to use on the burgess. It was to much trouble with BF.
    jrhelliott@gmail.com

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    White County, Arkansas
    Posts
    872

    Post

    Hi King!

    Yeah mine shred 'em down and dump 'em. I was wondering if this may be significant, but figured it wasn't. Thanks

    David

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Mason, MI, USA
    Posts
    1,015

    Post

    I have used FGMO for 5 years and for the last year I have been using Thymol with it as per Dr Rodregaz.
    To help eliminate the doubt and cut down of FGMO/Thymol users I am currently running a 3 year test on FGMO/Thymol testing for residue left in the honey and in the hive woodenware. As of now I have only found Thymol residues as they occur normally in nature.
    Before I retired last year FGMO worked for me and I used no other treatments in the hives and suffered 10% or less losses out of 500 hives. Most of these losses were not due to mites.
    Clint
    Clinton Bemrose<br />just South of Lansing Michigan<br />Beekeeping since 1964

  20. #20

    Post

    I too have been useing FGMO to treat my bees and could say less then 5% loss. of my commercial operation. so the nay sayers say what you want. as beekeepers we must do what we feel is right treatment for our own needs.
    Don

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Ads