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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Greenville, TX, USA
    Posts
    4,376

    Post

    This one has been posted before, but when I searched for it, it was no longer posted on the web. Simple 2x4 construction.
    http://www.myoldtools.com/Bees/incubator/

    Now, somebody tell me, is 3/16" too wide to contain a new queen?

    [size="1"][ March 19, 2006, 12:28 PM: Message edited by: Ross ][/size]

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    46,104

    Post

    1/5" (#5 hardware cloth) will contain a queen. That's 3/15ths so 3/16ths should do fine.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Osceola, Iowa south central of state
    Posts
    248

    Post

    I have never seen this before and don't understand it. Can you explain more please.

    Bill

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Greenville, TX, USA
    Posts
    4,376

    Post

    When you use a system like the Jenter system (or others), you have to be very careful or the first queen to emerge kills all your hard won queen cells. If the weather is bad or you just don't get the cells out in time, boom. With the incubator bar, you transfer the cells when capped into the bar and put it back in the hive. The queens emerge in the holes in the bar. The bees can feed them through the slots. The other option is to place the cells directly in a nuc when capped. Sometimes the nucs tear down the cells and start their own.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Osceola, Iowa south central of state
    Posts
    248

    Post

    So you drill holes in the 2x4 and then put in screen wire in the holes? Then the queen cells in that?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Greenville, TX, USA
    Posts
    4,376

    Post

    No screen needed as long as the slits are less than 1/5". Otherwise, yes.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Osceola, Iowa south central of state
    Posts
    248

    Post

    ok Ross, i see now more of what you mean, but the drilled holes have to come very close to the outside of the wood for the bees to reach the queen to feed her then right?

    I need to go back now and look at the picture agian. Ok just looked again. It sure does not look like the nerse bees could reach the queen without getting into the groves to me. also, did a couple of the holes get too close to the edge on the back? it looks like it cut out.

    Thanks for the help.
    Bill

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Lima, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    722

    Post

    I use something very similar. To give them more access to the queen and to make it easier to see, I drill the holes and then cut off the sides of the block covering it with #8 hardware cloth. Plus the blocks I use are actually built up out of two pieces. The bottom portion has a larger hole and the upper part is smaller to fit a jzbz style queen cell cup. see http://www.honeyrunapiaries.com/stor...rame-p-66.html
    for a picture.

    With queens I intend to use for II, I use a wire mesh cage that has a groove to fit the pin on the cell cup. Then I just put it in a simple banking frame

    Either are fairly simple to make yourself with a table saw and small drill press.

    -Tim

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Greenville, TX, USA
    Posts
    4,376

    Post

    Yep, missed on one hole. The workers can pass through 1/5 of an inch, but the queens can't (like a queen excluder). I haven't widened all of my grooves yet to meet that standard.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Chapel Hill, N.C.
    Posts
    37

    Post

    Any problems with acceptance while introducing virgin queens? If so how do you alleviate the situation? Do you get many mangled/injured queens by packing them in?

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