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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Seattle, Washington State
    Posts
    4,398

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    So as I understand it, if you graft, you need a doner hive that has the queen that you want to use which is of course queen right

    than you take and graft from a frame and place it into a cell builder hive that is queenless.

    Than, when the cells are capped, do you place them in a finishing hive???

    I am foncused on the process.

    Anyone help?
    Chef Isaac..Culinary Arts and Honey are a sweet mix! http://www.sweetascanbeehoneyfarm.com & http://www.adoptahive.info

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    45,949

    Post

    You can use one hive as all three, as I outlined in the previous thread. You get the larvae from that hive, isolate a portion of that same hive for the queenless cell starter, and reunite it as the cell finisher, all in the same hive. But if you want to rear a LOT of queens, you might want seperate facilities (starter, finisher etc).

    The Jay Smith method and the Marla Spivak method both use a "swarm box" for the starter. You set up a deep five frame nuc with a lot of ventilation (screened bottom and some other vents down low) and a large wet sponge in the bottom and two frames of nectar (open nectar, not capped honey) and two frames of pollen and shake it FULL of bees. Put it in the basement for 2 hours. Then do your grafts and put the grafts in the box and put it back n the basement overnight. Then transfer the started queen cells, bees, frames and all into the hive you orginaly took them out of above an exclduer so the queen won't go there. This also can use just one strong hive.

    You can also just make a strong hive queenless overnight and put the newly tranfered larve in the next day and just leave them there until you're ready to put them in mating nucs (on day 13 or 14).

    The trickest steps, in my opinion, beyond doing the appropriate timing, is the cell builder nees LOTS of bees and adequate honey and pollen. By lots of bees, I mean packed to overflowing.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Seattle, Washington State
    Posts
    4,398

    Post

    Do you have to use a floor without a floor or can you use an inncer cover with the whole screened?
    Chef Isaac..Culinary Arts and Honey are a sweet mix! http://www.sweetascanbeehoneyfarm.com & http://www.adoptahive.info

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    45,949

    Post

    You could use an inner cover with the notch up or some other way to give the top box an entrance. It's just easier to pull the bottom out of the FWOF when you want to make it queenright again and they aren't hard to build.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    hidalgo county texas
    Posts
    303

    Post

    a link with a little for you to think upon on queen rearing chefhttp://members.aol.com/queenb95/genetics.html#anchor521928

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