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Thread: Apiguard

  1. #21
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    If you have two deep supers, do you put Apiguard on top of both at the same time? Or just one? Which one?
    “The keeping of bees is like the direction of sunbeams.” -Henry David Thoreau

  2. #22
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    hobie

    I think that you put apiguard on the top of the top deep or super.The apiguard is heavier then air so it wants to settle.

    My question is if you were to put your supers and apiguard on now and let the bees fill them would the thymol residues help control the v-mites in the winter? I have some extra supers and Im going to try it this year.Just wondering if anyone has already tried it?

  3. #23
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    I don't think the residues are strong enough to control mites through the winter. In fact, you need to do 2 treatments for it to be effective. What it does do is treat for mites through 2 bee brood cycles so the number of mites in the winter is extremely low starting out.

    That's correct about putting the Apiguard on the top box. The fumes settle to the lower boxes. Right now my brood is in the 2 bottom boxes, their winter honey box (not mine - I took off my honey!) is on top of the brood. The Apiguard is on top of the bee's honey.

  4. #24
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    Hobbie,
    You place the correct dose(see Ishi above)On the top bars of the top box.Gotta have a 1/4 clearance above the gel...

    Bourdeaubee,
    My understanding is that the thymol should vaporize fairly quickly,leaving little to no residue behind.I hope so...that is why I thought I would try it.
    So,I don't know the answer,except that I'm hoping that after using the stuff I don't HAVE any mites to control this winter. [img]smile.gif[/img]

    I treated 2 colonies today.
    One was a late split that I made with frames of capped brood that must have been loaded.It had a food chamber that wasn't full and therefore wasn't supered.
    The other the stronger half of a hive that I split last week(found swarm cells and a very full house and lazy acting bees)they got a new box to keep them busy,so they weren't supered either.
    Tonight when I stopped to look at things,Hive #1 entrance seemed normal.
    Hive#2 was clustered out on the front(68-70 deg.F),foragers waking about with pollen not making a beeline inside with their loads.Sound normal to those that have tried Apiguard?

  5. #25
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    Jun 2003
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    Pomfret, MD, USA
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    Dave W wanted me to describe "very, very, strong" so here goes.

    First, I only use mediums. For each of my three hives I use 3 mediums as the brood chambers, which is equivalent to 2 deep hive bodies. There are bees covering nearly every surface, of every frame, of every medium hive body. There are bees clustered under the inner hive cover. There are bees hanging out below the very bottom frames. There are bees on the outside washboarding. There is brood from the bottom of the hive, to the top of the hive, and almost all the way out to the sides.

    That's what I mean by very, very, strong.

    Wish

  6. #26
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    wishthecuttlefish . . .

    Sounds like you have MORE THAN a very, very strong hive [img]smile.gif[/img]

    A hive, w/ as many bees as you describe and a "natural" mite fall of only 20, may not need V-mite treatment at this time.


    >put apiguard on the top of the top deep or super . . .

    Apiguard goes on top of top BROOD CHAMBER(S). No "honey" SUPER should be on the hive while treating. Do NOT let bees store honey in your HONEY SUPERS.

    Remember, Apiguard is for treating VARROA mites. Since Apiguard contains Thymol, and Thymol is said to also kill T-mites, you MAY get "double-duty" using Apiguard.

  7. #27
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    Thanks, Dave. I did not know that Thymol also killed T-mites. Oh well, it's too late anyways, since I put the menthol on a couple weeks ago.


    Wish

  8. #28
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    Anyone using Apigaurd with top entrances? Seems like it should work eh??

  9. #29
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    I just put a tray of Apiguard on yesterday. It said to put it on top of the brood nest, so I put a shim above the second deep, put the tray there, and put the shallow (winter stores honey super) on top. I screened over the entrance in the shim, figuring if they could haul the Apiguard directly out, it wouldn't work as well. The cover was shimmed for ventilation.

    This morning, all the bees seemed to be in the "upstairs." There were no guards at the lower entrance (there are typically quite a few) and I saw a wasp fly in unchallenged. There were bees at the screened entrance in the shim, so I opened it.

    Have I done something wrong? Now I get to sit at work all day worrying that I have done them harm.

    [size="1"][ September 01, 2006, 12:00 PM: Message edited by: Hobie ][/size]
    “The keeping of bees is like the direction of sunbeams.” -Henry David Thoreau

  10. #30
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    hmm...., I think the fumes sink, so the bees may be escapeing to the upper chamber. I would move the Apigaurd to the top of the hive

  11. #31
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    Michael

    it's my understanding that Apiguard works by the bees draging it through the hive to get rid of it and spreading it as it goes
    I would think you'd always want to put it far from the entrance so they have to drag it all the way thru the hive

    here's some info

    http://www.dadant.com/Apiguard-openingpg_000.htm

    Dave

  12. #32
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    drobbins . . .

    >Apiguard works by the bees draging it through the hive to get rid of it . . .

    That's exactly what they do, but is that "how it works"?

  13. #33
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    >but is that "how it works"?

    no Dave, that's how it's spread thru the hive and it's why you want to place it as far away from the entrance as possible
    nobody knows "how it works"
    I tried to get mine to fill out little questionnaires on how they felt about the aroma of thymol but due to their lacking an opposable thumb they couldn't pick up the little pencils [img]smile.gif[/img]

    Dave

    [size="1"][ September 01, 2006, 03:23 PM: Message edited by: drobbins ][/size]

  14. #34
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    SIC'IM, Dave [img]tongue.gif[/img]

  15. #35
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    From the package info and what I've read, it works both ways... the fumes are heavier than air (which is why they say to close off your SBB), but they do drag it through the hive to dispose of it, and disperse it that way.

    I just never expected mine to abandon the brood nest. I may have severely hurt the efficiency of the Apiguard by opening the upper entrance, but I was afraid I was gassing the girls. Will just wait and see (and worry all the while) I guess.

    If my last remaining hive absconds, I'm going to turn in my hive tool.

    And, Dave, your mistake was the pencils. Everyone knows they need tiny ink wells to do calligraphy with their feet.
    “The keeping of bees is like the direction of sunbeams.” -Henry David Thoreau

  16. #36
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    Hobie

    I think I'd move it to the very top of the hive
    I just tried Apiguard one time but it seemed to work pretty well
    It's hot here and I still left the top cracked open

    calligraphy huh, who knew the little critters were so artistic [img]smile.gif[/img]

    Dave

    [size="1"][ September 01, 2006, 04:35 PM: Message edited by: drobbins ][/size]

  17. #37
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    I'll try moving it... but may have to wait. Ernesto is due to ruin our Labor Day weekend here on Lake Erie.

    You know, this "learning curve" stuff is really teaching me patience. If I don't die of worry first...

    -Sue
    “The keeping of bees is like the direction of sunbeams.” -Henry David Thoreau

  18. #38
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    Ahh yea, Ernesto
    enjoyed his visit today
    hopefully he'll leave you alone by Sunday

    Dave

  19. #39
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    Dec 2005
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    Newberg, OR USA
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    I too went with the apiguard this year. My lids have exactly 1/4 rim on them. They say that is what you need at least. Well that is how thick the little tin is. So added a empty western rim as also stated in the directions. Set the tin on the top of 2 story deeps.
    Did the 24 hour drop test to see if # doubled from the natural fall. It was also the coolest day we have had in months. It maybe squeaked 60 degrees that day.
    THe # was higher but not quite double.

    THe bees really haven't touched the stuff in the tin. There is just this menthol type smell. You can smell it when you walk within about 6 feet of the hive with it in.

    I will do the rest of the hives this weekend, Some of my lids have a taller rim on them. So I will not use the western rim on those hives.

    Question how important is it that they remove the stuff from the tin. Because of the 3 that have it on now. None of them seem to be touching what is inside. It has been only 3-4 days so far. :confused:

    Oh ya I also have screend bottom boards. But the trays are in just below the screen maybe 1/4 at most. I hope this counts as closed off.

  20. #40
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    >SIC'IM, Dave . . .

    Naw. I got what I wanted [img]smile.gif[/img] I knew he knew what he was saying, I just wanted him to explain it [img]smile.gif[/img]
    Didnt want some newBEE to think the bees were smearing this stuff all over "everything".

    I just wish he had given us some "numbers". [img]smile.gif[/img]

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