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Thread: SHB trap?

  1. #1
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    OK my ferrel bee's have been in my hive for around 13 day's now. On the fourth day I went back just to check on them. When I lifted the outter cover I saw around 12 or so SHB's I mashed all of them . Last night I moved them to their new home. This mourning I did a inspection and saw some SHB's on the cloth that I tied some of the brood comb from the tree where they were located. My question is this. Which is going to be the best trap. The hood trap or the west beetle trap. I was thinking of filling the west beetle trap with DE instead of oil. Would the west trap also combat the varrola mite's?

  2. #2
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    If you have a screened bottom board, just put DE in the tray. I bought six of the west beetle traps and have not used them. For a "blow by blow" account of my experience with SHB and new hives check out this thread in the Beekeeping 101 forum:

    SHB Woes
    "The UNKNOWN, huh? That would be SNORBERT ZANGOX over in Waycross."

  3. #3
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    Hey Bubba!
    I lived in Maplesville in 1978-9! My papa was the pastor at the Church of God out of town on the Highway. I've not visited since then, but really enjoyed tubing on the creeks around there.

    I don't know about DE for adult SHB. Those buggers are tough. With the oil, anything that falls in (adult or larva SHB, varroa, ants, small dogs, etc) will drown. DE as you probably know, scapes the exoskeleton and causes the animal to die from dehydration and infection. It will definately work for thin-skinned fells, but I'm not sure on the adult guys. Also, the oil keeps anything from climbing out. DE won't, in and of itself, do this.

    Waya
    WayaCoyote

  4. #4
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    Hey WAYACOYOTE

    Wow small world. I live just about a mile and a half from the university church of God. I am origionally from lawley "just about 15 minutes from where I currently live".I ordered a west SHB trap from Brushy mountain a few hours ago.I guess that I will just use the oil instead of the DE.Imight just try to lyme around the hive for any straggelers that make it out.

  5. #5
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    Waya

    >I don't know about DE for adult SHB. Those buggers are tough.

    I have tossed out thousands of dead adult SHB when I change the DE in the SBB trays on my hives. I have watched them fly into it when I was putting the tray in and they are almost immediately disabled by its effects (they just lay there on their backs wiggling there feet). The havoc it causes to their respiratory system when they "breath it in" is far more detrimental to them than the "scrapes". I just make sure that it is deep enough (at least 1/4") so when they fall into it, they are instantly covered in it. It is a whole lot less mess and hassle than the oil.

    >Also, the oil keeps anything from climbing out. DE won't, in and of itself, do this.

    By my experience, what goes into the DE, never comes back out, even the larvae. They "tunnel" around in it for a short way but still succumb pretty quickly. The key is it must be "fluffy" and deep so that they are immediatly covered in it. Some insects that have longer legs and can just run through it will not suffer the respiratory effects, I have not observed this to be the case with SHB.
    "The UNKNOWN, huh? That would be SNORBERT ZANGOX over in Waycross."

  6. #6
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    Thanks, Gene,
    That's great feed back.

    Bubba,
    The Alabama State Apiarist visited us when I was in Hunstville in 2003. He talked about using GuardStar and mentioned that the ground within 18 inches of the hive openings must be treated. I'm assuming that's about how far the SHB larvae will travel when going to ground to burrow. The question arose about SBB's, and he replied that they will give the SHB more exits and so all the ground under the hive must be treated out to a distance of 18 inches.

    With the SHB trap, I'm not using SBB's since I'm sure the dropped varroa are dying with these as well. But I do have a plastic sheet (shower curtain) under my SHB hives to keep any larvae from going to ground to mature. A side benefit is that the grass is kept down.

    Waya
    WayaCoyote

  7. #7

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    Adding to what Gene said. DE MUST be in a powder form. If rain seeps in and gets it wet DE somewhat gels/solidifies it will no longer be effective and must be replaced.

  8. #8
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    I ordered several of the hood traps recently. Was having an shb problem with a package. Installed the trap in the package and it seemed to knock them down enough until the package has gained some strength. The trap is small fits on a brood frame and I believe the spillage is limited and leveling the hive I don't think is as important as with the west trap because of size of trap. But the west trap would of course cover a larger area.
    I tried the Hood trap first because of expense. I have only used the trap in this one colony and therefore my experience with it is limited . I have not tried the DE but plan on putting lime around my colonies. Univ of ga. guy told us the distance around the hive ( shb pupate area), I believe was about one meter or so with the highest concentration within the 1 ft range (some even further out).
    Here is a link with the results where I used the trap:

    http://www.beesource.com/cgi-bin/ubb...c;f=3;t=000712

    [size="1"][ May 14, 2006, 07:30 AM: Message edited by: sc-bee ][/size]
    sc-bee

  9. #9
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    Well my west trap came in today. I went out to the hive at dark and what did I see :mad: A bunch of SHB larva crawling out of my hive onto the cement pad. So I mixed up some premethrin and soaked the ground then I poured some canola oil on the cement pad. The poor little devils marched to their own death's. [img]smile.gif[/img] [img]smile.gif[/img] I plan on installing the trap tomorrow afternoon. Does anyone have any timeline on how long it takes a larva to be ready to leave the hive?

    [size="1"][ May 16, 2006, 02:37 AM: Message edited by: Bubba ][/size]

  10. #10
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    Hope you have better luck than I did last year!!! You may want to try and take out larvae infested frame(s) and freeze for 48 hrs. Clean up if honey fermented. Thaw and return to hive if bees strong enough to clean up frames.
    Here's a link on lifecycle:
    http://www.ento.vt.edu/~fell/apiculture/hivebeetle/

    [size="1"][ May 16, 2006, 03:05 PM: Message edited by: sc-bee ][/size]
    sc-bee

  11. #11
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    [Does anyone have any timeline on how long it takes a larva to be ready to leave the hive?]

    Eggs 14 days to pupae
    Source: http://creatures.ifas.ufl.edu/misc/b...ive_beetle.htm

    Doesn't anyone read anymore or do we all just ask questions and hope someone knows?
    There is always more than one way to skin a cat, that's of course if you're into eating cats.

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