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I have some fruit trees that are very near my hives and want to have some fruit this yr. Can someone tell me the safe way to spray dormant oil and other sprays so that I don't end up killing my bees? Thanks.
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I have fruit trees and I never spray them at all. One method is to use dishwashing detergent because it breaks down the oil on the skin of the caterpillers and such and they die. If you insist on poisons while the tree is blossoming, be sure to spray them after dark when the bees are not out. Still I'm afraid it will get in the pollen and kill the bees. If the tree isn't in bloom, you probably don't have very many bees around anyway so it's not so big a problem.
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Thanks....kind of thought this might be the case. I may spray some dormant oil after dark but once the flowers come out....no more spraying.
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You can spray fruit tree's with Maverkick or Farm-x. It will not harm bee's.
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Thanks, Mark. I see you're from Oneonta, AL. I went to school in Oneonta, NY.
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You are caught between the possibility of losing your fruit crop to insect pests, or loosing you pollination bees from the insecticide. What to do?
In my opinion, spray for the wasp, and move your bees away for a couple of days. That way you will save the fruit crop and the health of the bees.
Ian
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Hey Mark ,
Fruit trees too. WOW, I have about 50 semi draft apples trees around 5 to 7 years old and im running into the same problem . I won't spray and haven't got a crop because of it. Tell me more about the two chemicals you used and what does it treat. is it only an insecticide or is it used also for a funguacide , Hope you have some answers for me how i can obtain a crop of apples along with the honey .Thanks
Your bee buddy
\ Walt
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Walt:the 2 chemical's mavrick &farm-x is really the same thing just sold by 2 company's.My spelling is probably off,but it's maditicide.which is a form of insecticide.IT will not harm the bees regardless of when you spray it.by the way just got off the phone with mr: mccary.talked with him almost 3 hr's. he recalled your order & ever thing is running o.k.with him except his paper work,so if anyone's invoice is late you'll get it sooner or later, mark
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Hi Mark,
Glad you heard from Mr. McCary, what a neat guy. As far as the paperwork, you can't hive it so it really doesn/t matter to me just another piece of paper for file 13. When you go down to see mr McCary ask him about Mavrick and what he thinks about it,please. We beekeepers in the north are getting antcy we had temps up to 60 for two days and now its back in the low 50's and even 40's, we need some heat from the south please send asap. Thanks
Walt
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Hi all: I have approx. 200 apple trees and also 6 hives. First never spray my trees when the bloom is on and when I follow the usual spray schedule I spray late afternoon or very early morn to minimize the exposure to my bees. Once the bloom is done the bees seem to lose interest in the orchard and spread out to surrounding areas. If you are concerned I would move your hives farther away. I have had trees and the bees this way for about 20 years. Good luck.
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Hi Karl,
Can you please tell me your spray program you use on your trees, Im in Ohio our weather is about the same. What chemicals do you use and how often. I have 47 apple trees semi-draft 5 to 7 yrs old. can you help me with a program you use. Thank you. Walt
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On this subject i have a fig tree that does not flower but produces fruit.
My dad sprays it for fruit fly but im wondering if any one has seen bees collecting the juice off the figs when ripe.
Is it wise to cover or close the bee hive for a day while spraying?
[This message has been edited by chiefman (edited June 08, 2003).]
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Personally, I would close up the hive the night before and spray as soon as the flys are active. Wait a few minutes and open up the hives. I think the spray in the air is the main threat.
I've seen bees collect any kind of frut juice they can get access to, but they can't pierce the skin to get to it.
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This topic is very important to me at this time because I found some kind of critter on my pear tree leaves. It's black, 1/2" long and has a big head. It looks almost like a tadpole. I took a leaf w/ one on to my county extention office. I'm wondering if spraying w/ garlic juice mixec w/ cyanne(sp)pepper would work?
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Russel,
It sounds like you've got Pear Psyllia (sp?). We get them on our cherry and pear trees here in the Pacific Northwest.
From what I understand dormat oil is really just Mineral Oil with an emulsifier added. It should be OK to spray while the bees are in their hives.
Greg
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Greg...et al,
Thanks for quick input. I was thinking also that since there are no flowers on the tree at this time...there shouldn't be any bee activity near the tree in the first place...so..it's probably ok to use the dormant oil.
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Russell: Re dormant oil, its name says it all! It needs to be applied in early spring prior to the trees budding out. I have been told to apply when you will have at least 8 hours of 50 degree weather after application. If applied to leaves already out it can damage the foilage.
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So what do I use to kill the little slimy critters on the leases?
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I'm not a farmer nor do I have personal experience with it, but a local organic farmer said good things about: Surround WP Kaolin Clay - Insect Repellent for use in orchards, fields, vegetable gardens.
See: http://www.extremelygreen.com/Produc...ct%20Repellent
for more information.
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Off topic, but could someone direct me to a list about fruit trees? I want to know if a seedling from a good producing apricot tree will necessarily resemble the parent tree. Thanks.
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Linc
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