Fume Boards

[snuffybee]

what natural repelant can you use on your fume board to drive the bee's out of the honey supers? would cider vingar work? I know you can buy bee go and simlar products
but I was wanting to know if there was something else that would work.

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Kevin
snuffybee2001@hotmail.com
southeastern,Oh.

[Zeke]

i have heard it said (but havent tried this)
that oil of bitter almonds will work .
i use bee-go but am not very fond of it as
i always seem to lose a few bee's when i do .
so mainly i just use a smoker and brush
and i cover the super i am putting the frames i am putting in with a towel .
Zeke

[Hook]

Ever tru using a bee escape?

[Michael Bush]

I use one of those triangular bee escapes (I've tride the small ones and they don't work that well). Make sure there's no brood in the supers and put them on the escape. Wait a day or two and brush the remaining bees off on the entrance. I hate the chemicals!

[Cachebeeman]

I guess I would have to give another vote for using a bee escape. Since I only have a few hives to work with it is not that big of a deal. It just makes more sense to me to use as few chemicals as possible. But also to use the right ones for the right reason.



[This message has been edited by Cachebeeman (edited September 05, 2002).]

[Michael Bush]

I've smelled the chemicals for Bee-go etc., in fact I made them in Organic Chemistry class in college. I wouldn't want to expose my honey to them. I know the theory is they evaporate, but if you use that theory you could douse your hamburgers with lighter fluid when you cook them on the grill. They still taste like lighter fluid.

[BWrangler]

Hello Everyone,

I was a commercial beekeeper and using chemicals and a fume board was the most efficient way to remove honey. I have used gallons of the stuff. But some interesting side effects result.

Man, that Butyric stinks. In the lab it's called "stink". For the first week it stinks to the beekeeper too, but after that you don't even notice the smell because your bee gloves, the truck, the fume boards all stink.

You get the most amazing stares from people downwind while fueling or stopped at the traffic lights.

After awhile even your wife will be looking at you in a new way. Just a hint, softscrub removes most of the stuff to a tolerable level. Nope, bleach, ammonia, and other soaps don't work.

For a little fun leave the fume boards on the truck while unloading it at the honey house and get a surprise inspection by the local health officials who have been professionally trained to smell out such things.

And lastly, where do you put those things when your done? I hope you have a few acres of commercial property.

If you're a hobbyist like I now am, transporting that stuff in the back of your car and storing it your garage could add a whole new meaning to beekeeping. :> )

Dennis

[snuffybee]

Thanks for all your replies!, I tried the vingar on the fume board. It didn't work for me, I think that my hives being in the shade didn't help the vingar not enough heat from the sun, so I used the smoker and the bee brush. I'll maybe try the triangle bee escape,does any one know where you can find plans for making this,I know you can purchase them but i like building my own equipment. Thank agian for the replies

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Kevin
snuffybee2001@hotmail.com
southeastern,Oh.

[Hook]

Triangle bee escape plans are available from Dave Cushman. Check the links. There are several designs on his web site.

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Dale Richards
Dal-Col Apiaries
Drums, PA

[Hook]

I just finisher making the "vortex clearer board from David Cushmans web site. I think it will work pretty well. Its under beekeeping, clearer or escape boards. There are pretty many different designs, but I liked the vortex the best.
Now I am thinking about creating my own pollen trap design, with the escape built in as the exit. Not sure how, but I want them to have an easier time getting back out!


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Dale Richards
Dal-Col Apiaries
Drums, PA