Not hard research data yet but I am convinced that the Screened Bottom
Boards help with management against Small Hive Beetles. When I received the
project hives from the Paducah area they had SHB. So far this year I have
seen less that 10 beetles, and I have not used any treatment except the
good old "squash them with the finger when you see them" method. SHB thrive
in dark, dank areas and this is exactly what regular wooden bottom boards
provide for them. Anyone using SBB will see how clean the screen area
is. I further believe that ants contribute greatly to keeping this area clean. Nature working together.
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If a job is worth doing - Then do it well
[This message has been edited by Rob Mountain (edited September 08, 2004).]
The SHB don't like the fresh air and light from the SBB. But they will actively run upwards to the top of the hive (and darkness). I know many beekeepers here in the south have given up on inner covers because of this. They will also remove the tenth frame, this reduces the amount of cracks and crannies the SHB can hide in.
I'm new to SHBs and am looking desparately for solutions. The problem may be overstated, but looks serious to me. Do the screened bottom boards seem to work?
You got SHB in Louisiana?? Hmmmm I didn't think they had made it there yet.... I'm waiting for the sure fire answer for the problem myself.... just continuing to read and evaluate for now. Haven't seen any here in Central MS yet that I know of.... but I know its just a matter of time...
If SBB is good for the bottom, and you remove inner covers( I use a migrator cover alone already) I wonder if the chemical patch you staple inside the hive would still be good to put on the inside of the top cover?
SHBs have only been a problem in the south and only in tropical areas even though they have been found in many parts of the country. They just dont seam to build up a strong enough population to do any damage.
One reason may be the colder temperatures, but they also think it may have to do with the soils moisture content. I know that many of you may see SHB from time to time but unless you live in the south or warmer tropical areas you should never really have problems with them.
What I have found to be most beneficial to the hive is giving the bees room to work so they can keep the SHBs out of the hive. Keeping in mind of bee space some of the beekeepers I know have went to using only nine frames in all their boxes (even the brood box) this lets the bees move freely between the ends of the bars to keep SHBs from hiding there, and as BILLBEE said many also remove the inner covers. This is another place where the SHBs will hide waiting to lay their eggs.
I guess many of you have read about the bee putting the SHB into prisons, but it actually works a little different. The SHBs use small spaces to hide. The bees try and keep them there, and when us beekeepers go through our hives they are turned lose. If you open up spaces like the end bars and inner cover many of these spaces are no longer there. The SHBs will have fewer places to hide and are run out of the hive by the workers.
Do the hive beetles enter the hives at night, and sneak in front entrance, or under the top cover, generally? What would be the largest mesh screen to keep them out?
They sound like a nightmare!!
I have found that my nucs fair far better than my other hive's, screened bottoms don't make alot of differance, sometimes they make it hard to treat, they help with mites but not so much with the beetles. Some hives can take care of the SHB on there on and other, well you no the out come.
I just installed my new Dadant SHB trap last week. I'll be checking my hives in a few days to evaluate its effectiveness. Hoping to see lots of drowned SHB's AND mites!
I was at a Beekeepers meeting last night. One of the entemology students from the University (Here in Lincoln) said he sees SHB all the time but they aren't a problem and a beekeeper from Columbus, NE said he's seeing them.
If someone knew what set them off for sure a control measure would be possible. Pulling honey late this year and noticed a hive that had 500 or more in the honey supers at the top, but with no apparent problems, of coarse could go back tomorrow and the hive could be a loss.
Moving the hives will break the life cycle of the SHB. The larvae enter the ground to morph into the adult. When you move the hive, the newly emerging adult doesnt have a place to lay new eggs.
Having moved hives up from western Kentucky a year ago to Frankfort KY I had SHB. With no treatment besides SBB, I am now SHB free.
Location is very vital; in South Africa the original home of the SHB we were most affected by SHB in areas where we had sandy soils.
Yes, moving ones hive will certainly break the cycle but most small beekeepers are static. However moving also means spreading the little beasts further and wider. Ask me about how the am Capensis the Cape Honey Bee was spread throughout Southern Africa.
A few SHB are not a problem. I know that they scare the bagingers out of most small beekeepers but dont panic, SBB, SHB Traps, and ground drenches will do the trick. Strong hive are also less likely to be bothered by SHB. Good management will ensure better results, and are also less susceptible to SHB. Weak hive are always a danger to ones bee operation.
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If a job is worth doing - Then do it well
[This message has been edited by Rob Mountain (edited October 17, 2004).]
I agree the SBBs are a great help with the beetles. About 3 weeks after I installed my packages in mid-April, there were hundreds of SHB larva on the bottom board inserts. I quickly disposed of them, but I think they would have overtaken the hives (or any weaker hives for that matter) if they hadn't fallen through the SBB. It may also have had something to do with the fact that there was no comb only foundation in the hives.
Once the colony population was up, the bees took care of any beetles that were in the hive. Now I only see an occasional adult in the hive, but the adults don't do any damage, only the larva that develop from the eggs they lay. As long as the bees (with the help of the SBB to pass through any beetle larva that fall to the bottom boards) can take of the larva, I don't think they're a big problem. But if for whatever reason, the hive becomes weak and less populous, look out -- they could overtake a hive very quickly.
[This message has been edited by GaSteve (edited October 22, 2004).]
If ants are such a problem, why dont you take care of them? Ants will find their way into any crack in your wooden ware.
I cant speak for Dadant but the ones form Kelleys work just fine. I have never had a bur comb problem with then either.
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If a job is worth doing - Then do it well
[This message has been edited by Rob Mountain (edited November 12, 2004).]
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