Hive set ups?

[jnbgcpd]

I just wanted to see what everybody is running and why? I currently use a deep with a medium on top that is left there year round. Also what does everyone think is the best for the piedmont of N.C. The last few years we have never really got a good tulip poplar flow stored. It usualy is wasted building them up, but we also take them to the mountains for sourwood. I am thinking about experimenting with all mediums on a few. By the way we have all russians. Thanks

[Jesus_the_only_way]

I think a lot of the Beekeepers nowadays are running all Illinois. I am currently running 2 deeps for the body with shallows for supers. When I add more hives though, I will jump on the all medium bandwagon also. It just seems as if it would be much easier to have everything uniform in size.
Tommy

[jdb5949]

I just ended my first month actually keeping bees. I have the ultimate in lack of uniformity. I bought five TBH's from Scot McPherson. They are his special design, about the size of three deeps. To split, I have to cut and tie brood into my medium frames. I intend to expand into all mediums also.

[tecumseh]

tecumseh is old school. I typically overwinter in a standard depth (9 & 5/8inch) brood box and a Illinois super.

[Michael Bush]

http://www.bushfarms.com/images/TypicalHiveMyHive.JPG

In the picture, on the left is a "typical" hive as recommended in the books. From bottom to top it is: a bottom board, two deep boxes for the brood, a queen excluder, two shallow supers an inner cover and a telescopic cover. This is NOT what I typically run. A ten frame deep full of honey weighs 90 pounds. A medium full of honey weights 60 pounds. An eight frame medium full of honey weighs 48 pounds. The one on the right is one of my typical vertical hives. It's a slatted rack with some #8 hardware cloth for a bottom, four medium boxes for brood and honey (no excluder) and a migratory top with a shim on both sides to make a top entrance. Using all the same size frames greatly simplifies management as any honey can be used for winter feed and any brood found in the supers can be moved back down since the frames are all interchangeable. Leaving out the excluder helps prevent a honey bound brood nest and doesn't restrict the bees working the supers. It also saves having to have a bottom entrance because the drones can get out the top (no excluder to stop them).

[Hanginin]

Here in eastern n



Here in eastern North Carolina, I use a deep super with two shallows year round. I super above that for surplus honey with shallow supers. Have been looking for some half shallows that should work better for folks beyond 70.


Greetings from Hubert, NC.

[Ross]

I'm from the Michael Bush school, all mediums.

[Michael Bush]

Now I've converted to all eight frame mediums. [img]smile.gif[/img] About 50 lbs is all I like to lift. [img]smile.gif[/img]

[Troutsqueezer]

"In the picture, on the left is a "typical" hive as recommended in the books."

This photo illustrates one of the primary differences between those beekeepers who get down to serious bee business and hobbyists like myself. What I'm getting to is: My wife would throw a hissy fit if I put something that ugly in our yard.

[Michael Bush]

Maybe some day I'll find time to paint. [img]smile.gif[/img]

[GDH]

Michael....didn't you give a list of things you don't waste time and money on recently....including paint? Looks like picking up used bee keeping equipment might be in line as well, then skipping the paint, well then you have a seriously "old" looking apiary. As your signiture says..."Everything works if you let it."

Just rattling your chain a little.....

[Propolis30]

There not that bad Michael. I don't see any duct tape or caulk.

[junglebill007]

MB, maybe we should have an "Ugliest hive" contest! I know I'd have an entry!

I started out making deeps. MB changed my mind and saved my back by showing me the wisdom of mediums. Still have the deeps....they're bottom brood boxes now!