Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    England
    Posts
    3

    Big Grin

    Hi all,
    I am currently studying product design at A-level. In my final year i am required to design & create a device to lessen the strain on beekeepers backs.
    I need to conduct a survey, as i do not know many beekeepers i thought i would ask lots of people all over the world! Do you have the same problems with lifting? Would it be easier if a device was used to lift the hives? Are there any ideas you have come up with to help solve the problem? Or even found some existing products on the market?
    If you can help me in any way it will be a great help, e-mail me or leave a post.

    Many thanks

    David

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Hookstown PA USA
    Posts
    581

    Post

    Well, there is the TBH. Not that I came up with it of course. When my back gets tierd working my Langs I play with my TB until I am recovered enought to go back to them.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Golden, CO
    Posts
    171

    Post

    Large commercial operators have their fork lifts and boom trucks. A hobbyist with just a few hives in their home yard could probably build a swinging boom lift for handling and moving supers or whole hives.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    The Scenic Flint Hills , KS
    Posts
    5,159

    Post

    There is a device called a Backsaver sold here. It is a two pole, (2x2), bolted on one end to form an 'A' and has a chain with aluminum hooks to attach to the handholds.

    It is used to lever the box up and offset them onto a lid or platform on the ground.

    I find it too cumbersome to mess with, perhaps when I get older it will be of use. For now I will just move heavy frames one at a time, the lighter boxes are not a problem yet.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2000
    Location
    Liberty Hill, TX, USA
    Posts
    50

    Post

    One thing I did to make supers lighter was to make them slightly shorter. How much shorter? Well, what I did is designed my own supers that take exactly half a sheet of brood foundation. This way I only have to buy 8 1/2 inch foundation - the size for my brood chambers. When I need super foundation, I just slice them in half.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Central Square, NY, Oswego County
    Posts
    814

    Post

    I use medium suppers for everything. They are not to heavy, next I have the hives on stands and they are 16 - 18 inches off the ground. Saves on bending over all the time.
    Dan

  7. #7
    jfischer Guest

    Post

    My dad had first knee surgery on both
    knees, then spine surgery, so he could
    not lift much of anything. What I did
    was buy one of these $99 mini hydraulic
    hoist cranes:
    http://www.cumminstools.com/browse.cfm/4,125.html

    ...and attach it to a custom mounting
    plate that attaches to his lawn tractor's
    trailer hitch. This allows him to lift
    supers and brood chambers at whim, place
    them on the ground or in the bed of his
    pickup truck, and never lift more than 10 lbs.

    The homebrew part of the design is a pair of
    "ice tong"-like pincers that grip tighter when
    subjected to a weight load, and grip the mix
    of store-bought handholds, home-made 1x2 grip
    bars, and other kludges used in our motley
    mix of woodenware.

    The "Backsaver" was demoed at EAS 2000 or 2001,
    and I found it to be inappropriate for an older
    person, given the height and the cantilever force
    exerted by a super at a 45-degree angle. (For
    those who don't understand the problem, try picking
    up a cinder block, then tie the cinderblock to a
    garden hoe, and lift the cinderblock from the end
    of the hoe handle.)

    How to improve it?

    The hydraulic crane is overkill for this
    application, and is far too heavy itself.
    (We hang it from a very sturdy hook in
    the garage ceiling, and use the crane itself
    to lift the crane up off the garden tractor.)
    What is needed is something lighter, perhaps
    simply thinner steel.

    The hydraulic cylinder itself is also overkill.
    Cut some cost by using a smaller one.

    Few people are going to pay a machine shop
    to make, nor design and dimension plans for,
    an adapter flange that attaches to a garden
    tractor trailer hitch. This is the real
    design problem, and I'm not telling how
    I designed my solution, as I don't want
    to cause you an ethics problem.

    Even if one cannot cut much cost from a $99
    crane, a kit consisting of an adapter plate and
    a set of jaws for lifting supers would certainly
    be of interest to most beekeepers, as none of
    us are getting any younger or stronger, and few
    of us have the money for "commercial-grade"
    lifting solutions. For those who do not own
    a lawn tractor, perhaps one would want to
    attach it to a car or truck trailer hitch.


  8. #8
    cadetman Guest

    Post

    The crane is great. If mounted on a flat bed..... how high could it raise the hives? How far out will it reach ?


  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    McMinnville, TN, USA
    Posts
    716

    Post

    Do some searches on here for long hives. They were mostly started after seeing or using a TBH. Of course you would have to modify them to your standard boxes. I am going to make a shelf to put my hives on so I no longer have to sqat down to get to them. Because of a back injury my lower back does not bend and I have a weight limit of 50lb. All my hives can be driven close to and the ground is fairly level. A cheap effective mobile/hand lifting device would come in handy. It would need large wheels to make it easy to push. If it is hand powered the gear ratio would have to make it easy to lift. If it was hydralic it would need to be easy to jack as I have a floor jack for lifting car I no longer can use as it is a 3 pump to 15 inches of lift.

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