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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Southern Oregon
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    1,168

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    I am looking for a simple entrance regulator for small mating nucs. The disc type seems ideal but hard to locate and expensive. Any suggestions
    John B Jacob www.oldsolbees.com

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
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    How about drilling a round hole for the entrance and stapling a piece of 1/8" hardware cloth on when you don't want them getting out. It's cheap. You can reuse the hardware cloth. The only ongoing cost is the staples. Or put it on with a push pin and move it out of the way when you don't want it.

    Since I went to two frame mediums for my mating nucs, I just put a frame of open brood with the bees, a frame of honey with the bees and shake in an extra frame of bees and don't bother to close it at all. The open brood keeps enough bees there. So my nucs are free flying all the time.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  3. #3

    Post

    Better bee sells the disk kind for around $2.25 each.........I love them....they are located at www.betterbee.com Good luck

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Hamilton, Alabama
    Posts
    1,232

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    The best nuc entrance is a homemade device made by cutting a 4 inch square out of 1/2 inch exterior plywood. Then use a drill with a hole saw to cut a three inch hole in the center of the square block. Then cut out a 1/2 inch chunk from one of the sides of the block. Staple a 4 inch square piece of screen wire over the block of wood. Nail the block over the entrance to the nuc. The bees in the nuc will find and use the entrance at the side of the block where you cut out the 1/2 inch chunk. Robbers will attempt to enter through the screen wire and will rarely find the true entrance. If you need to close the entrance, put a block of wood in the 1/2 inch hole. The screen wire still lets the bees get air.

    Fusion

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Southern Oregon
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    Thanks for the tips all. The ones they have at Betterbee are the ones I liked, but the price is a bit excessive, and they did not have many in stock. There are some suppliers in Engalnd who may have better prices. I like the disc entrance due to its adjustble nature, multitude of available colors, and its slim profile will still allow the boxes to be packed tight for moving. I use 4-way, two frame,shallow mating nucs. Perhaps I could build them from some aluminum sheet. I need about 600 of these little buggers.
    John B Jacob www.oldsolbees.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Central OK, USA
    Posts
    26

    Post

    JBJ: For mating nuc entrances, I used the small round plastic disc used as washers to hold dow board to metal studs. These can be purchased from your local building supply. Screws come with the disc. I removed approximately one fourth of the disc with a utility knife. I drilled a five eighth diameter entrance hole in the wood. For ventilation in the nucs, I drilled a two inch hole and covered with number eight wire. The disc and screw cost approximately three cents each. Works great for me.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Berkey, OH, USA
    Posts
    1,487

    Post

    Jerry where do you drill your ventilation hole?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Southern Oregon
    Posts
    1,168

    Post

    Okiebee, sounds like a great option. What is dow board? What exactly should I be asking for at the Hardware store? I am also wondering where to put the screened ventilation holes?
    John B Jacob www.oldsolbees.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    46,747

    Post

    My problem is the discs (from Betterbee and Beeworks) are too big for a 2 frame medium nuc. They are too tall and too wide.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Southern Oregon
    Posts
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    Post

    Michael, Are you using 2 frame singles or 4-ways?
    John B Jacob www.oldsolbees.com

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Salem, Oregon
    Posts
    457

    Post

    JBJ,

    Are you the guy written up in the Medford paper and Bee Culture?

    Pugs

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Southern Oregon
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    Indeed, although I believe it was the Grants Pass paper.
    John B Jacob www.oldsolbees.com

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
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    Post

    >Michael, Are you using 2 frame singles or 4-ways?

    Yes, and yes. Also 2 ways. I have single 2 frame nucs (2 frame is the one on the left, the rest are 3,4,5,8 and 10 frame medium nucs:

    http://incolor.inetnebr.com/bush/ima...rtedWidths.JPG

    Here are the 10 frame boxes divided into four 2 frame nucs facing each of the four directions:

    http://incolor.inetnebr.com/bush/ima...MatingNucs.JPG

    And I have five frame nucs split down the middle for two, two frame nucs in each. These is one on the left in the background of the previous picture but you can't tell.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Southern Oregon
    Posts
    1,168

    Post

    Michael, thanks for the pics. Sounds like your 4-ways are very similiar to mine. I am surprised the discs were to big. It was my undersatnding that they would fot fine if you positioned the entrance hole properly. Are you using standard western frames?
    John B Jacob www.oldsolbees.com

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
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    >I am surprised the discs were to big. It was my undersatnding that they would fot fine if you positioned the entrance hole properly.

    They are taller than the medium box. On the single two frames they are also wider. If the cover was made flush with the edge then they could stick up past it I suppose.

    >Are you using standard western frames?

    There seem to be several definitions of "western". Mine are standard 6 1/4" deep frames made for a 6 5/8" deep box, which I would call a medium. I run all mediums for brood and honey.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Salem, Oregon
    Posts
    457

    Post

    Michael,

    Out here in the boonies of Oregon, what everyone else seems to call a medium, is called a Western. There are : Shallow, Western, Semi, and Deep. In dimension, they are 4-5/8", 6-5/8", 7-5/8", and 10-5/8" high.

    Why they are called different names out here I don't know.

    Pugs

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
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    I believe I've heard Western used to refer to both the 6 5/8" and the 7 5/8". To make matters worse, I've sometimes heard 6 5/8" boxes refered to as shallows. Makes me want to pull my hair.

    Here's what I was taught:

    4 3/4" (sometimes 1/16" differnece) EXTRA Shallow
    5 3/4" (sometimes 1/16" difference) Shallow
    6 5/8" Medium (sometimes called "Illinois" or "3/4")
    7 5/8" Not generally talked about, but I've heard it called a Western.
    9 5/8" Deep (sometimes a "Langstroth Deep")
    11 5/8" Dadant Deep (sometimes called "extra deep" or "jumbo")

    I think we should scrap the whole thing and call them:

    #1 = 11 5/8"
    #2 = 9 5/8"
    #3 = 7 5/8"
    #4 = 6 5/8"
    #5 = 5 3/4"
    #6 = 4 3/4"

    But I don't think it will catch on.

    It even gets confusing just using the measurments because the frames are always different from the boxes. So calling a frame for a 6 5/8" box a 6 5/8" frame isn't right because it's only 6 1/4".

    And then some of them make a deep that is a full 9 5/8" and some make one that is 9 1/2" and some make one that is 9 1/4". And then the rabbet could be 5/8" or 3/4" and the frame could be 9", 9 1/8" or 9 1/4".

    Maybe we should band together and create a standards organization. [img]smile.gif[/img]
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

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