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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    Evansville, IN, USA
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    Greetings . . .

    As spring approaches, I am thinking about storms. How much weight do you use on top of your hives? Do hives blow over? Is it necessary to fasten the supers together, until they are propolized?

    Thanx
    Dave W

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    brown county,indiana,usa
    Posts
    571

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    i think a brick is probably good,i've had a few lids blow off', but none with bricks on them yet.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
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    I've had several whole hives blow over in the wind. I've had lids blow off with three or four bricks on them. Mine all have one concrete block on the lid. It's heavy, but it doesn't blow off. Of course that kind of wind only comes along two or three times a year.

    I am tired of the weight though, and am considering using screen door hooks and eyes to hold them on instead. It works better on a migratory cover or any cover that is flush with the sides.



    [This message has been edited by Michael Bush (edited March 05, 2003).]

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Marion, North Carolina
    Posts
    423

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    I use ratchet tie down straps. You get them in lengths from 10' long straps to 18' long straps. You can put as much pressures from top to bottom as you like. I strap mine from top to bottom with the strap going around the actuall hive stand. The hive cannot blow over.

    The straps cost anywhere from $10 to $18. They generally come 4 to a pack. I have different colors to help aid in keeping track of my hives. They generally come in yellow, green, blue and red.

    Thesurveyor

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    crown point, NY, USA
    Posts
    971

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    We have many stone walls in my area that have been hear for...........???? a long long time. I just use large stones from these. Just don't like to shuck out cash for everything its tough enough to make beekeeping profitable. You what you got.


    Clay

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Evansville, IN, USA
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    Thanx to everyone for the info.

    I like the hook-and-eye idea. For my single (maybe 2) hive(s), I dont think cost would be a problem.

    CLAYTON - It saddens me to learn how you weight your hives. I hope you remove the stones w/ respect, and replace them when your finished.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
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    I recommend if you use the hook and eye method you use careful measurments to put the hooks on the lid in the very center of the length of the lid and in the same location up and down. Then you put the eyes also in the very center and where they are snug. That way if you move a lid or a box to a different hive it will still fit. A few extra screw eyes (cheaper than the pairs of hooks and eyes) around will handle when you add a super or take one off. I've also considered the cinch latches like the old trunks or guitar cases have, but they are more expensive than the hooks and eyes.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2002
    Location
    Dousman,Wi.U.S.A.
    Posts
    209

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    If concerned about winds you might also give some consideration on placement of hives. If you have areas accessible that are in natural windbreaks that will help reduce the wind problem, also help the bees fly in a more protected area. I use a single brick and have never had a problem. All depends on where you are in this country and the strength of the winds.

    [This message has been edited by Karl (edited March 05, 2003).]

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    The Scenic Flint Hills , KS
    Posts
    5,159

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    I should be knocking on wood, in four years I have never weighted down or had a top blow off.
    I guess I never gave it much thought other than seeing it in the reference books.
    I think that I will solve that problem before it becomes one. The best solution for me would be to make bungee cords that will go over the top from handle to handle. No heavy weight to heft, no hooks to snag, and no measureing for eye holes. Bungees can be made for less than a buck too.
    Thanks for giving me the idea!
    Bill

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    oneonta al.
    Posts
    848

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    I've never had a top to blow off either,but be sure you set it on something solid.I've had them to fall over,had one today,luckly I found it in time,they can sure get top heavy when you go 3& 4 high..

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
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    3 or 4 high? Mine end up 6 or 7 high. Or are you just counting supers? I end up with four or five supers on top of two deep brood boxes. You end up trying to take down a sixty or so pound super on your tip toes.

    We get winds that take some of the shingles off the roof a couple of times a year here. No problem blowing off a cover. Occasionally it blows down the several whole hives. What a mess! And worse it's always during a rain storm and always in the dark.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Location
    crown point, NY, USA
    Posts
    971

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    Dave W.,

    I like the hook-and-eye idea. For my single (maybe 2) hive(s), I dont think cost would be a problem.


    reply:

    Increase the #'s and cost starts to become much more of a concern.

    CLAYTON - It saddens me to learn how you weight your hives. I hope you remove the stones w/ respect, and replace them when your finished.

    reply:

    I rather thought some one would say this. But you shouldn't be saddened because of me. I actually use rocks from areas where skidders (logging here) have trashed out nice stones walls. There is no way to repair so I pick up the stones and give them a home on top of hives. Crown Point (where I live), and Ticonderoga have some very old stone walls from the roots of our country going right back to Revolutionary War and French and Indian War period. I just try to pick up the mess and put some to use to adorn the top of colonies.


    Clay


  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    brown county,indiana,usa
    Posts
    571

    Post

    i've become adept in scrounging really nice hardwood pallets,the make nice sturdy bases,big enough that grass doesn't clog the entrance,and provide a better place for leaning frames or sitting smokers or hive tools.if you ask, alot of businesses don't care if you take them.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Evansville, IN, USA
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    2,837

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    Greetings . . .

    CLAYTON - You are right! Today, I checked the price (at Lowes) for some 1-1/2 solid brass, hook-n-eyes. They was two per pkg and cost $1.97. A dollar (simple math) per hook.
    Using two hooks per three bodies, top cover, base, and four honey supers does get expensive ($17.73+tax).

    SORRY! I misjudged you. I should have known that anyone who is a beekeeper, whould do the right thing when placing a rock on there hive.

    Thanx
    Dave W

    MICHAEL - You are right! They were half the price of brass. As you know, brass will not rust. I thought the small hooks would be hard to paint, but the plated steel might be the best buy.

    [This message has been edited by Dave W (edited March 07, 2003).]

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
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    46,318

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    The galvinized screen door hooks are usually much cheaper than the brass ones.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Marion, North Carolina
    Posts
    423

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    Sounds like my ratchet tie down straps are not too bad. You can get four for 12.95. That would be 3.23 per hive. The stones are definately cheaper, but you have enough heavy things to lift already without adding to your troubles.

    Thesurveyor

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