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Thread: Honey Supers

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
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    Twig, Minnesota USA
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    66
    I need some suggestions on how to get my bees to move up into the honey supers verses bounding up the hive bodies. I have had five swarms this year because of this issue.

    Each hive has two hive bodies that are full of brood, pollen and honey. So, I have added the supers, which are new and need to be drawn out. But, instead of moving up into the supers, they have over crowded the brood boxes and swarmed.

    I have only been able to catch two of the five swarms...

    Any ideas!? Any suggest!? Please let me know.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    ATL, GA, USA
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    70

    Post

    Do you have a queen excluder on? If you do I would take it off. You might consider feeding with a top hive feeder or hive top ziplock bag method, as sugar will motivate them to go up. You might also consider using honey-b-healthy on the honey supers' foundation.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Twig, Minnesota USA
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    I meant to say that in the first posting, no queen excluders are being used. I have thought about feeding on top, but I guess I figured, with all on the inbound nectar they wouldn't take the sugar. It's worth a try. Besides, I'm getting tired of climb 40 feet up in small diameter poplar trees... Can you just picture that... a 250+ man climbing up a 4-5 inch diameter poplar tree... No! I didn't really, those are the swarms that got away. Thanks for information.

  4. #4
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    NE Calif.
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    The hives that swarmed probably wont have enough bees left to pull foundation.If there is a good flow still,you should put a couple of frames of brood right in the center of the super to bait them up.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
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    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
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    Logger Mike is right except that requires using the same frames in the brood chamber as the honey supers. That's one of the reasons I like having all the same size. You can just pull some of the honey out of the brood chamber and move it up to the supers or even put an excluder on and a frame of brood above it to bait the bees up into the supers.

    All one size helps solve a lot of problems.

  6. #6
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    Jul 2000
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    Twig, Minnesota USA
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    Logger... Our flow hasn't kicked off yet. As to the numbers of bees, the population seem to be strong yet... surprisingly! I am using medium super, so baiting in that matter will not work for me. Thanks though!

  7. #7
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    Jul 2000
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    Twig, Minnesota USA
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    Mike... I am beginning to see the advantage for having the same size equipment for brood and supering. Hmmmmmm
    I will try the brood above the super...

    Oh, by the way... our flow hasn't really kicked in yet, but the bees are bring in enough to bound the brood boxes.

    [This message has been edited by TAWoods (edited July 14, 2003).]

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Neodesha, Ks
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    623

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    I think that I have seen this used before. Take 2 shallow supers and staple them together and they will take the deep frame. Is this right?????????? Maybe that would help in this case.

  9. #9
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    Two shallows is about 11". One deep is 9 5/8". But for a short while you could put two shallows on (without the staples) and leave a frame of both out and put a deep frame of brood down between. Worst case is they build an inch or so of comb on the bottom which you can scrape off.

    I REALLY don't understand why anyone would want different size boxes. (And I have every size made). I am going to try to convert all of mine as I go. Add on to the shallows and cut down the deeps.


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2000
    Location
    Twig, Minnesota USA
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    Big Grin

    Mike... so what size are you using. You said you are adding to the shallows and cutting down the deeps...so does that mean you are using mediums? Maybe I didn't understand. :0

  11. #11
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    Yes. I'm going to all mediums except for an experment in Dadant Deeps (11 5/8")

  12. #12
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    Put all the brood in the bottom box.Put an excluder over that,then the foundation.Set the deep of honey on top.The bees hate this seperation and will rapidly pull the foundation(if there are enough bees AND lots of nectar)Check the top deep in 1 week for queen cells as the bees up there may feel queenless and start cells (you cant get all the brood in the bottom box just most of it)Sometimes this will work Ha Ha!

  13. #13
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    Jul 2000
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    Twig, Minnesota USA
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    Big Grin

    Mike... How are your bees doing in the winter? I see you live in Nebraska. Do you have them in two or three medium per colony? just curious!

  14. #14
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    Aug 2002
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    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
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    I'm multiplying and regressing, so I've done a lot of splits. I started with 20 hives that I bought that were in two medium boxes coming out of winter. I bought five packages. Between swarms and splits I have now lost track but I think as of today I'm up to about 45 hives. I don't know how many will be strong enough to overwinter, but I plan on putting weak ones on top of double screens on top of strong ones to get them through the winter.

  15. #15
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    The strong ones I will plan on four mediums for the brood nest. The smaller splits will be whatever size I get them to, but I was actually hoping to overwinter some nucs.

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