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Thread: Lure Placement

  1. #1

    Post

    Just curious, but how is everyone setting out their nucs and 10 frame hives out. Most are posting that they have them up to 8ft off the ground? Do you build a stand to attach to the tree, hang it with a rope? I have a couple I need to get out, but couldn't figure out how everyone did it.

    Thanks
    If you see me runnin' you'd better keep up!
    http://hillshivery.blogspot.com/

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Troupsburg, NY
    Posts
    4,072

    Post

    From what I've read, most are taking a length of rope and tieing it to the trap and then throwing it over a branch, pulling it into postion and tieing it to another tree. Seems simple enough, and I suspect the closer to the branch you get it the better. About nine feet off the ground seems to work the best.

    peggjam
    "I reject your reality, and substitute my own." Adam Savage

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Jackson, MO
    Posts
    1,858

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    I built my own 6-frame nuc boxes out of 1x12's and yes, they're a little deeper than normal. I build them with a fixed bottom and I screw on a 1/4" plywood top.

    On the side, I screwed on a 1x4 about 20" in length, with a 1" hole drilled in toward the top of this 1x4. The 1x4 sticks up about 8" above the top of the box. The plywood top is flush with all the sides of the box so this 1x4 does not interfere. Exact measurements are not that critical.

    I nail a stout, 8" nail into a tree or fence post and hang my swarm trap on the nail, through this 1" hole. It's a good choice to find a fairly level spot to climb the ladder, and straighter tress obviously work better.

    The traps have a 7/8" hole drilled in one end for an entrance. When I catch a swarm, I come back to the trap site late at night or early in the morning, climb my ladder, plug the hole and take down the trap. As long as I'm in the area, I hang a fresh trap in it's place.

    Back in my bee yard, I set the trap on a hive stand and allow 2 or 3 days for the bees to orient themselves. With my cordless drill, I remove the screws, transfer the frames to a regular brood box and feed to give them the advantage.

    I've had some places, like sheltered ravines or creek banks, where traps were hung at shoulder level and they caught swarms just fine.

    I've also come to the generalized conclusion that swarms ought to be requeened before the next season, and these swarm queens can be easily used to raise daughters with one of several methods.

    Grant
    Beekeeping With Twenty-five Hives: https://www.createspace.com/4152725

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Nehawka, Nebraska USA
    Posts
    46,341

    Post

    I climb up a ladder to get them in the tree and tie them at a junction of a strong limb and the trunk. I tie them to the trunk and to the limb with old plastic baling twine or a rope.
    Michael Bush bushfarms.com/bees.htm "Everything works if you let it." ThePracticalBeekeeper.com 40y 200h 37yTF

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