I am in search the dimentions on building a couple of 8 frame hives or even some plans to go by my mentor and i are going to build some this summer. If anyone knows where i should look please let me know.
The ones available from Brushy Mt., who has had the widest assortment of accessories over the longest period of time, are 19 7/8" by 13 3/4". The ones recently available (this year's catalog for the first time I've seen) from Mann Lake and Betterbee are 14". Western Bee Supply makes them in 1/8" increments from 13 3/4" to 14 1/4".
Mine are all 13 3/4". You make them just like a ten frame hive except 2 1/2" less width.
I would pick either 14" or 13 3/4". You might look at the accessories that Brushy Mt and Betterbee have and consider how far each is from your location to help decide. Both will work fine. You can squeeze eight frames with a beespace on the outside into a 13" box, so you have a lot of room to play.
The 14 1/4" boxes will hold nine brood frames or 8 wider honey frames. Smaller sizes require the frames to be trimmed down a little if you want nine in the brood nest.
I trim my frames to 1 1/4" wide and put 9 in the 13 3/4" boxes. But yes, you can squeeze nine standard frames in a 14 1/4" box with adequate beespace on the outsides. So it seems a 14 1/4" box should be called a 9 frame box. Right?
You can put nine into the brood box(es) and then 8 into the ones above for honey storage.
9 gets you closer to natural spacing of the brood comb resulting in more even comb building.
8 in the uppers allows them to draw out the comb some for honey storage and is lighter to pick up than a ten frame.
Box sizes:
We got a hold of some very old cypress 8 frame bodies from the old Kelly outfit, all 13 3/4".
One word about outside dimensions. Not sure which supplier, but I have seen 7/8" thick material somewhere which would change the inside dimension slightly or if holding the inside would make the outside a 1/4" wider when compared to 3/4" thick(today's standard).
We are building our new 8's to 13-3/4" using 3/4" thick stock because it matches our existing 8 frame stuff.
>I'm confused. Why make 8 frame boxes and put in 9 frames? No sarcasm intended.
The weight of the box full of honey is directly proportional to the width of the box, not the number of frames.
If you take a 10 frame super and put 9 frames in it it weighs virtually the same full as it does with 10 frames in it. The bees just make the comb thicker. If you put 8 frames in a ten frame super, it still weighs virtually the same. They just make the combs even thicker.
If you shave the end bars down to 1 1/4" and put 11 frames in a 10 frame brood box, you get more brood. The box still weighs about the same.
If you shave the end bars down to get 1 1/4" and put 9 frames in an 8 frame brood box you'll get a box that is significantly lighter than a ten frame box and you get more brood.
If you put 6, 7, 8, or 9 frames in an eight frame super, it will be virtually the same weight regardless. You just get thicker or thinner combs and you get a lighter box than a ten frame box.
The reason for a skinner box, it will always weigh less than 50 pounds. The reason for more combs in the brood nest, more brood, smaller cells, less bees needed to keep the same amount of brood warm.
I have seen measurements from 13 3/4 and 14 1/4 so I went smack dab in the middle. That way if i buy larger, its stil fits without too much over lap. If I buy smalled, I don't over lap too much.
It gives me a 1/4" fudge factor between manufactures, and a comfortable 9 frame fit.
The only ones with a fixed size seem to be 13 3/4" or 14". So Right in the middle of that is 13 7/8". That would probably be a good choice.
Mine are already 13 3/4" though.
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