the comment that you must crush and strain foundationless is wrong.
are you at 100 hives at this time?
if not getting there will answer many of your questions.
Type: Posts; User: stangardener
the comment that you must crush and strain foundationless is wrong.
are you at 100 hives at this time?
if not getting there will answer many of your questions.
i have an early organic gardening encyclopedia that lists anise hyssop as the wonder honey plant. they write that it was said that an acre could support a hundred hives.
when i make nucs with a bottom and an entrance i make them all 5 frame deeps. since i have both deep and medium equipment i can use them for either. i have no problem giving the bees clustering space...
bread knife and scratcher.
[QUOTE=Michael Palmer;744709]
I now use a double box with solid divider, or with a feeder where the top fill holes have been closed with duct tape. Four frame nuc boxes are added on top of each nuc...
just recieved a maxant extractor. everything went great and they paid the postage.
hello beesohappy,
where in the el dorado foothills are you placing hives?
good for you! it's what i've done and i feel quite successful. all my bees didn't die and they're even expanding.
another thing i've done is i've stopped grafting from limited hives i decided were...
mite control or not queen right splits are an important part of my management technique. i'm making up for (below average) losses, building numbers and requeening without buying queens that i've...
thank you for the chuckle!
california is a big place with alot of differant weather.
for those who have used the flanged 1/8" tube, do you think a drilled out .22 casing would work?
my internet does not support movies so i only read text on the web page. i'm glad you were able to move away from the acid.
when i read your original post i did not realize you were the author of...
thanks for the link. i was disappointed to see the formic acid treatments.
maybe i market queens that that are mite resistant and winter with a very small cluster.
how bout addressing the original posters question as a local view point might be helpful?
i'm blessed in that i've never seen the bees do anything wrong or make any mess.
unless it's just to conserve work?[/QUOTE]
ya just to conserve work. i also don't think it's necessary to completely break up an entire hive that's just a single medium.
if i was to go through all...
if your interested in powder sugar dusting for mites i suggest reading the write up on the country rubes website and also on randy olivers scientific beekeeper site.
a queen right split is similar...
yes rubber bands. size 64 is good. remove one of the more complete frames and replace it with an empty. cut the removed comb enough to center it in the frame and use three rubber bands to hold it in....
Can someone please tell me why this thread is in TFB?
a beekeeper has 10 hives and makes 10 splits in july. come the first of the following april said beek has 5 of the original hives and 5 of the nucs. the nucs are transfered to the original hive...
i haven't used the stuff made from sawdust (particle board)have used the stuff made from bigger chips (osb).
i've got 20 that are about 6 years old. just painted them again and figure they'll be good for another 6 years.
i call what cozybldr described a queen right split. i don't automaticly take the comb with the queen on it though it's a bit quicker. i take the queen and shakes of bees and sealed ready to hatch...
use a comb of drawn in the center spot if you have it.