"If you let your supers set. Sure SHB will soon get.
Stack'em high and taken them fast, for in time they won't last"- Tim Ives
You're a poet, and I didn't know it.
Tim: Do you think that providing top entrances is important in 'pulling up' the bees and expanding both the broodnest and honey stores vertically?
I could always just offset a top super and find out, but I want to hear your thoughts on this.
Perhaps you could give Tim a 'guest forum' in the TFB forum?
We're not going to get very far on this way off topic thread.
Note: make sure the middle frames get drawn. I have lost a couple hives in winter due to bees getting stuck on oneside. But that was also before I started wrapping hives.
WLC, by giving the bees undrawn in the middle this will help deplete wax builders on strong hives. If the hive seems slow to build thenadd drawn in the middle. I use undrawn to slow a hive down. Drawn to speed a hive up.
Spring/summer they'll use all entrances provided. A lot of bees coming/going.
Would the same kind of space/arrangement considerations apply to honey supers as well?
For example, would moving up two drawn honey medium frames into the next upper honey super do the same thing as moving up two brood frames?
I color code supers, yellow drawn, tan new and gray borrowed (which I lose half the honey out of 200 to the guy with bobcat). But get to use his honey house till I get mine up and running(another project in my free time..lol).
I'm really glad Tim is here. Makes it a little harder for folks to call him a liar to his face, it appears.
Whoah! You have been away a long time, then you come back with so much anger.
Lucky I'm here too, makes it a little harder for you to get away with something like that.
Doubt Tim has a problem with anything I said, but if he did I'm sure he would rather discuss in person, than have the lackey do it for him.
Looks like we got us some instigators here.
First Dean accuses me of calling Tim a liar, which never occurred, and then this.
By the way, I do have 3 deeps working on one hive, and I'm ready to pull up some more drawn medium frames into the supers to make 7 supers on top.
The other hive just got a new queen and had some issues.
For those more interested in bees than personal argument, it is mid winter here, and I have set up some hives according to the Tim Ives method. My hives winter in 2 deeps, but I've found some very strong ones and given them another box. Done maybe 8 or nine hives. They will be managed this season the Tim Ives way.
Not saying anything silly like I'm a convert, our flow patterns are different and don't know if the method will fit here. But I'll try anything once.
I presume you'll be doing the same raldridge?
I've been up in the North Country, living in a tent with no internet. I come back and check the thread and you're still whining about stuff I didn't say over a month ago. Maybe you'd care to list a few of the incorrect assertions I made about Tim's approach to beekeeping?
I didn't think so.
I'm sure Tim would be surprised to know he has a lackey. Are you unclear on the purpose of this forum? I brought him up because Randy Oliver mentioned him as a successful treatment-free beekeeper. I tried to relay some information about his methods, from my correspondence with him and other sources, because he was not a member here and I found his approach interesting. I thought other members might find it interesting too, which is apparently correct.
You know, if you get upset every time a new beekeeper has an opinion, you'll be upset constantly.
When I spoke in NJ. There was a beekeeper Ed Vaeth that had several 3 deep hives(100% survival). He was pretty much doing what I was, pre 09' pulling a split dropping the 3 rd down then supering. This year he supered up earlier what he could then split the rest. Get on FB, follow what's going on there in NENJ...
It's just kind of annoying, finding out that you're still nailing yourself up on that "rhaldridge don't gimme no respect!" cross. Yeah, it's true, but you get what you give.
Perhaps you should refrain from making stuff up. I'm still waiting for that big list of things I said about Tim's methods that you claim were incorrect. Of course, we all know you aren't going to come up with anything like that, because everything I said came from Tim himself, from Randy Oliver, and from various web authors who wrote about Tim's methods, after direct observation of his yards.
I'm not planning to follow Tim's methods in every respect, even though I believe that his is a very good system, judging by the results he gets. I'm more interested in making bees than making honey. But I like a lot of the concepts he uses. No treatment, no sugar, big brood nests, survivor genetics-- all good ideas, as far as I can tell.
For example, I now have a couple more hives in the North Country, but when I go back in a few weeks, I'm getting a nuc from some Mennonite beekeepers there who have been treatment free for some years now. I'm going to put it in a horizontal hive similar to what I have here in Florida, because those hives are doing phenomenally well. These horizontal hives are the equivalent of three deeps, and can be supered. Mine are set up so that I could put 9 medium supers on each without any super being more than shoulder height. It seems an interesting experiment to me-- no ladders needed. Also, the long hives are really cheap and easy to build, and even easier to inspect.
But you go on with your name calling and your snark. I guess you're too set in your ways to change.
"He as much as called Tim a liar. As you may have noticed, his groundless surmises were completely wrong in every respect."
That"s not true!
I was right on the money!
"...everything I said came from Tim himself, from Randy Oliver..."
You're using the guy with the ladder and the 'beewasher' as references?
Regardless, non of it has anything to do with treatment free beekeeping. So Tim caught some swarms. The rest is a common beekeeping practice in that neck of the woods.
No 'fat bees' required.