Ok! Do you guys glove up when messing with this stuff?
No, but llok out for sunshine and hot temps. Its 80+ in the hive... Try to keep them shaded if temps are going any higher. The problem is if you have DWV its highly contagious, and very bad for a hive, worse than the brood loss from MAQS..... if your real nervous, put your queens in a single frame nuc while you treat, then put just the queen back when done.. you get a break in brood and the MAQS perks.... then leave the singles as a walk away, or combine a cpl of them as walk aways.
What's the weather forecast for the next week? That's important if using MAQS. VERY temperature sensitive! Hopguard is not temp sensitive. MAQS can be hard on brood and queens if it gets too warm outside.
There is a how to in the diseases and pests section on the use of MAQS. It's a sticky and at the top of the section. I've used MAQS and will be using it anymore due to temp sensitivity and queen issues. I also don't think it's as effective as it needs to be. I used it side by side with another method last year in the same yard and the MAQS performed worse then the other method.
If you're seeing DWV AND the inspector is saying you should be treating, the obvious answer to your question is yes, you should treat. The same answer I gave several days ago.
Honey Luv Farm
Ok thanks. I think I'm going to use Hop Guard so it's not too rough on my brood.
I've noticed in beekeeping there are many different methods to achieve the same result. Some however work better then others. Some use powder sugar shakes to kill mites, some only to do a mite count, some use chems, some don't. Etc.
Even I will say "go ahead with the chemical assault" if the inspector told you to treat, AND you have DWV... If it were my personal hive, I'd still probably try other things, but it's not my hive & I'm not there to check on the progress of an "alternative treatment" in your hive, so I'll vote "treat" on this one (well, treat now, then look into other methods to keep the mite count down once treating gets them under control in the first place) ;)
I only saw one bee with messed up wings. It's not the whole hive.
And what's a brood break?
So your saying I need to move her out?
I'm only a few miles away from the original poster. I installed a local nuc about 6 weeks ago. In the first few days after installation, I saw 2 bees crawling around in front of the hive with DWV. I was pretty worried.
That hive is booming, and I've seen no more DWV. It's gone from a 5 frame nuc to 17 frames in that 6 weeks and it is chock full of healthy bees.
Maybe I'm just lucky, but I'm glad I didn't treat. It may be that the hive will die later in the year, and if it does I won't be surprised. I do plan to make the hive go through a brood break at some point before fall. I'm in the learning phase, and expect to lose bees. It's part of my self-education.
It's my impression, from the research I've done, that numerous DWV bees is often a sign of a hive nearing collapse from a mite overload, rather than a disease like the foulbroods that will get out of hand if ignored. Obviously that didn't happen in my case, at least not yet. According to Michael Bush, if I remember accurately, finding a bee or two with DWV is not something to get too excited about. The theory I find most plausible is that this is a opportunistic virus that primarily affects bees weakened by mites or other stressors.
Of course, I am a newbee, so I could be completely wrong. But it doesn't matter, because I'm not going to treat for mites. So we'll see. There has been no more DWV as far as I can tell, and the hive is booming. If it were an infection that inevitably kills a hive, the hive would not be thriving, or so it seems to me.