Making frames with Tight Bond III

I was using Tight Bond III to make some oak picture frames recently and had to take one apart, the glue was so strong it took pieces wood off at every joint. The glue is stronger than the wood (oak). I have also use Tight Bond II and Gorilla wood Glue with the same results.

With glue this strong is it even necessary to nail/staple the frames together?

Does anyone use only glue on their frames?

I made 100 foundationless deep frames with only glue for swarm boxes and they seem very strong and very quick to make. Should I test them to see how much weight the bottom rail can support? Anyone up for a competition nails vs. glue?

The glue is stronger, but using only nails allows you to replace any part that might be damaged, rather than scrapping the whole frame. I use both and try not to break stuff. (if it's worth doing, overdo it :))

:)

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Originally Posted by FlowerPlanter

With glue this strong is it even necessary to nail/staple the frames together?

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I haven have some rabbeted nuc boxes that are only help together with Tite Bond III...

I think you do. Just in case you don't get that glue in there correctly, those nails act as a backup.

A few brads in there will also help keep everything square while the glue sets up.

2 or 3 for me. I get 3 when I find it. HD only has 2 Lowes has 3. Or visa versa I forget. Dont know why they make 2 if there is 3.?

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Originally Posted by EastSideBuzz

2 or 3 for me. I get 3 when I find it. HD only has 2 Lowes has 3. Or visa versa I forget. Dont know why they make 2 if there is 3.?

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just a FYI that i found ;)


T III T II T
Strength* 4,000 psi 3,750 psi 3,600 psi
Open Time 10 minutes 5 minutes 5 minutes
Chalk Temperature 47° F 55° F 50° F
Viscosity 4,200 cps. 3,200 cps 3,400 cps
Exterior Use/ Yes** Yes*** No

I use the nails to hold the frame together while the glue dries, that way you can move them out of the jig and work on the next batch.

I use titebond III only, no nails on either boxes or frames. I clamp the boxes until the glue sets. So far no problem. No frame or box has failed yet (4 yrs old).

I use titebond III for frames and boxes. I use 3/16'' by 1 1/4'' crown staples on the frames, seems like overkill, but i would rather have them strong for extracting and moving hives. Boxes get nailed, just added support when we are moving them. i think you could get away with out the staples or nails if you wanted to.
Titebond III is also approved for indirect food contact, which makes it the go to glue for frames.

I used to glue (titebond III) boxes an nail them. Now I staple them with a 15 gauge 2" staple gun.
I staple and glue the frames With a sears crown 1/4 x 1 1/4 inch staples. I also staple the frames from the side under the top bar. Watch your fingers for the stray crazy staple. Going in doesn't hurt it's pulling it out that does. Haha.
You can also put a staple in the bottom bar to hold the foundation in an put a staple in the sides to hold the foundation straight. Works great.

There are times when equipment gets tossed around and that's when you may here the glue bond crack. That is one of many reasons I believe to use both nails and glue also when bees propolise frames together between boxes sometimes the glue and nails will come apart.

I feel like the nails hold the frames until the glue dries....

2 or 3 for me. I get 3 when I find it. HD only has 2 Lowes has 3. Or visa versa I forget. Dont know why they make 2 if there is 3.? 2 will wash out of your clothes, 3 wont. 2 is water resistant 3 is water proof. I use 3 on boxes 2 on frames, once you get that on your shirt it owns you

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Originally Posted by oldiron56

once you get that on your shirt it owns you

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That is why they invented the Good-will Store to get cloths you can ruin.

Good idea good will, another thing, TB2 can be unclamped after an hour or so where TB3 needs overnight

From the Titebond FAQ section:

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What is the clamping and drying time of Titebond Wood Glues?

For most of our wood glues, we recommend clamping an unstressed joint for thirty minutes to an hour. Stressed joints need to be clamped for 24 hours. We recommend not stressing the new joint for at least 24 hours. For Titebond Polyurethane Glue, we recommend clamping for at least forty-five minutes. The glue is completely cured within 6 hours.

http://www.titebond.com/frequently_asked_questions.aspx

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Thanx Rader, I never saw the stats, I just go by how it works for me, sometimes you can clamp up and 5 minutes later see that you didn`t align it right then try to break it apart, rut roe,

I switched from 2 to 3 a few years ago. 3 is food grade (i think)

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Originally Posted by Robbo

3 is food grade (i think)

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Indeed Titebond III is food grade, but so is Titebond II also.

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Titebond II Premium provides a strong initial tack, fast speed of set, superior strength and excellent sandability. It is FDA approved for indirect food contact (cutting boards) and is ideal for radio frequency (R-F) gluing systems.

http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx...b-217a38930fa2

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Titebond III is non-toxic, solvent free and cleans up with water - safer to use than traditional waterproof wood glues. It provides strong initial tack, sands easily without softening and is FDA approved for indirect food contact (cutting boards). The ultimate in wood glues - ideal for both interior and exterior applications.

http://www.titebond.com/product.aspx...-b53970f736af#

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:D