Found an article on using UV to kill Nosema spores so I would assume it would destroy other bacterial spores as well.
I know SNL, I figure biology of bacterial spores is similar and the mode of action of UV is pretty tough to resist. I will look into it more deeply, but one article did mention AFB spores viable up to 70 years.
The following quote was taken from Richard Taylor’s “The How To Do It Book Of Beekeeping”:
47. How To Sterilize Hives
“…..The equipment having been scraped, stack three hive bodies (five or six if you are dealing with shallow supers) upside down on an old bottom board. Sprinkle kerosene (never gasoline) lightly on the inside of this stack, especially the corners. Now crumple three or four sheets of newspaper and drop them in. Next drop a rumpled sheet of paper that is burning well. The stack immediately becomes a roaring chimney. After a few seconds slap a board or old cover over the stack and with a stick block the entrance below, instantly suffocating the fire. The hives are now sterilized and need only be aired out to get rid of the kerosene odor. They should not be scorched heavily inside only thoroughly singed.
The advantage of a torch is the flame is hottest at it's tip so it should sterilize (term used loosely) without as much destruction. The con is it might take longer but if you used a weed burner like what was shown in the link I don't think time would be an issue.
I can see where the flaming chimney would be used by an Apiary Inspector for its convenience. Perfectly understandable.
When did that happen?
I have used the stack and burn method in the past. I never felt like it gave an 'even' distribution of heat for sterilization purposes. I like the weedburner (did 400 5 frame nucs and a bunch of used pallets with it this summer).
This looks like the Harbor Freight one Ace referred to. http://www.harborfreight.com/propane-torch-91033.html
Looks like it would do the job .I think I will pick one up for a backup.
Okay, here is what Wikipedia says:
And here are they sources they cite:Quote:
Because of the persistence of the spores (which can survive up to 40 years), many State Apiary Inspectors require an AFB diseased hive to be burned completely. A less radical method of containing the spread of disease is burning the frames and comb and thoroughly flame scorching the interior of the hive body, bottom board and covers. Dipping the hive parts in hot paraffin wax or a 3% sodium hypochlorite solution (bleach) also renders the AFB spores innocuous. It is also possible to sterilize an infected hive without damaging either the structure of the hive or the stores of honey and pollen it contains by sufficiently lengthy exposure to an atmosphere of ethylene oxide gas, as in a closed chamber, as hospitals do to sterilize equipment that cannot withstand steam sterilization.
Bacillus spores are basically like little seeds. Once conditions are right, they will pop off their hard shell and start growing again. They are also the reason that pressure sterilization was invented. They are hard to kill.Quote:
13. Dobbelaere W, de Graaf DC, Reybroeck W, Desmedt E, Peeters JE, Jacobs FJ (August 2001). "Disinfection of wooden structures contaminated with Paenibacillus larvae subsp. larvae spores" J. Appl. Microbiol. 91 (2): 212–6. doi:10.1046/j.1365-2672.2001.01376.x. PMID 11473585
14. Robinson. Gas Sterilization of Beekeeping Equipment Contaminated by the American Foulbrood Organism, Bacillus larvae. The Florida Entomologist. JSTOR 3493642
15. . JSTOR 3493642
So, burning, dipping in wax or bleach, or exposing them to EtO would all work. I think it might be a little hard to get your hands on some EtO, but maybe that is just me. :popcorn:
Some States used to have ETO Chambers. Some were on trailers so they could be taken to where equipment w2as in need of sterilization. ETO is carcinogistic, so it went out of common usage.
I'm surprised Wikipedia didn't mention irradiation.
Rader Sidetrack, I am NOT a bee inspector. If my wording is incorrect or confusing please state the proper wording for my post. I will edit it and be eternally grateful.
I took a portable propane heater to mine and it was a time consuming experience. I have a weed burner as well but never tried it on used boxes. That Harbor freight weed burner really howls when you pull the trigger! I was going to do some the ‘Lauri’ method and will need to break that bad boy out again. Anybody know how the glues (Titebond) hold up to that heat?
What is the best way to disassemble a glue joint?
The key to the disassembly of glue joints is weakening the bond. For Titebond Original, Titebond II and Titebond III, raising the glue joint temperature with a heat gun or a blow dryer will reduce the glue's strength. Steam from an iron may also work.
I was going to mention a bleach dip but it would probably be hard on any metal in the hives.
It's just a guess but I think it would be a really long wait to get the bleach smell out of the equipment too.
Bleach oxidizes quickly and you would need to rinse first as well I would imagine but the salt left behind might be good for the bees w/o rinsing but it would corrode any metal somewhat. I would think wax dipping would be good except the boxes are painted already and I would think uneven absorption might cause issues.