Wooden Top Feeder Beespace Question

This is my first year keeping bees and I purchased a couple of wooden top feeders to start off a couple of new packages in 8 frame equipment. In no time at all the bees started building burr comb in the feeder entrance. My reading about beespace (3/8") says if more space is given the bees will build burr or bracing comb. That being the case, why do the manufacturers of wooden top feeders have an entryway of 7/8"? The feeders I purchased were from Dadant and had no screen, just the entryway, then over the board, and a little wooden raft on each side. I don't know if other manufacturers have a 3/8" entryway. How about you folks? What is your experience?

I have the same feeders but I don't worry about the burr comb ladders I did find out that after feeding them with sugar water or etc. I had to take the floats out because they give the small hive beetles a place to hide from the bees.

Interestingly enough, the entry gap was half filled with comb and BROOD. Also, my feeder leaked so I could only use one side for feeding. They built heavy comb in the unused side. Fortunately, we don't have hive beetles in Washington, yet. I would like to get or make one of the wooden top feeders with the screening on it so I can feed without disturbing the bees. The gap size, though, still confuses me. Why are the commercial ones so much larger than 3/8"?

Sorry. I can't figure out how to insert an image.

I'm not sure myself, I am still pretty new at this myself. I just take one day at a time.

Attachment 4328 I decided to figure out how to post a picture and revisit this topic. My hope was that someone that makes top feeders would reply and explain why the large opening is necessary.

Get the plastic one that Kelley's sells -- the center section has a screen over it 3/8" from the body, no burr comb on mine last year.

Holds 4 gallons, no drowning unless you leave enough space between the feeder and the cover for bees to get in.

Peter

I recently finished making two of these. I had it figured to be 3/8" space for the center entrance and then 3/8" between the cover screen the top rail they crawl over. I hate to say it, but my dad was right about that 'measure twice and cut once' stuff. I faileld to account for the 1/4" of kerf that i slid the bottom board into. I used a router to shave off some of the top rail, but it darn sure doesn;t look pretty anymore. Fortunately, few people will be seeing something inside the hive :) When i get my nucs instaleld and feeding I'll get some pictures of it to share. With luck, I'll not have burr comb up there.

Personally, I would welcome the extra harvest of wax.

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Originally Posted by psfred

Get the plastic one that Kelley's sells -- the center section has a screen over it 3/8" from the body, no burr comb on mine last year.

Holds 4 gallons, no drowning unless you leave enough space between the feeder and the cover for bees to get in.

Peter

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If you have 8-frame equipment, you can get them at Mann Lake.

http://www.mannlakeltd.com/beekeepin...es/page40.html

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Originally Posted by Jim Rieck

Interestingly enough, the entry gap was half filled with comb and BROOD. Also, my feeder leaked so I could only use one side for feeding. They built heavy comb in the unused side. Fortunately, we don't have hive beetles in Washington, yet. I would like to get or make one of the wooden top feeders with the screening on it so I can feed without disturbing the bees. The gap size, though, still confuses me. Why are the commercial ones so much larger than 3/8"?

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FatBeeMan's website, dixiebeesupply.com. You can buy the feeders or the plans to make your own. They are simple, easy to make, work great and don't drown hardly any bees. I used the ones you have from Brushy Mt. They're ok, but I redesigned them to be better.