I do not use box joints. I use half blind dovetails, but I would think that you could lay out your box joint so that a pin on the side board fills end of the frame rest.
Edit to add link: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...QEwAQ&dur=1125
If your frame rest is 5/8" deep, and the pin from the side board is 3/4", you should have no problem.
Second, reverse how the fingers and notches are cut in comparison tot he PDF you find on this group. The top of each side becomes a finger rather than a notch. the top of each end becomes a notch. You can then cut the rabbit end to end and when assembled that top finger closes the end of the rabbit.
I use the same dado set that makes the box joints to make the frame rest. The same dado also makes the side groove in the bottom board, and the rabbet around the board that makes the top, if you are using metal covered tops. A good dado set does a lot.
They're just plans, so do what suits you.
Daniel Y... Barry...Let me see if I understand what you are saying. If you make the top sides a finger, and the top of front/rear a valley wouldn't that make the sides weaker since you would be nailing the side into a 3/8 piece of wood, (front and rear minus the rabbet), vrs nailing from the front/rear into the side which is 3/4.
That's correct Cleo. You want the full top finger to be on the front and back pieces, not the sides.
Barry..Didn't we have this same discussion last Winter when someone posted that Kelly was changing their box joints to the front/back valley and the sides with fingers.
I am editing this post. I found the photo of where I made a nuc last Winter, using the front/valley, sides/fingers concept.
Now I am missing something because if the wood joint is solid (laminated) all the way from the top to the bottom why would one way of cutting fingers be any weaker than the other? Your still prying on solid wood correct?
I may have to see if I can get that jig on sale. If it is 42 lbs the shipping may hurt.
minz..It all has to do with the top joint. The point where most people pry apart boxes. On the front/finger joint you are nailing/gluing a 3/8 thinckness into 3/4 inch of wood, (the half cut on the side). On the front/valley joint you are nailing from the 3/4 side into a 3/8 inch of wood (because the rabbet has been cut away from the front. I don't recommend prying apart boxes by prying from the end, rather pry from solid wood along the edge, whichever joint system you use.
Look at the photo above, you will notice I had to use a # 4 nail because it is going into a 3/8 thickness at the top. If everyone did their prying along the sides, it would not make much difference. But, if you pry from the end, you are prying against 3/8 inch vrs 3/4 inch. Hope this has been confusing enough. If not I can try again. HA!!
You can nail the top finger from the top edge of the box downward without loosing any material for it to bite into. I pin all 8 corners of my boxes this way. pre drilling helps with keeping the wood from splitting but you should be doing that anyway. You can also somewhat toe nail the finger from the side. just angle the nail downward so it is driven in below the frame rest. I prefer from the top down method myself.
That's true. I normally try to pry the outside frame loose by using the 2d frame and pry from the middle, rather than against the side of the box.