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Table saw recommendations

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table saw
57K views 133 replies 44 participants last post by  windfall 
#1 ·
Anybody have any good suggestions for a table saw. Really need something fairly rugged, with a fairly large table yet not so large that it would require a large storage area. Seems like the choices go pretty quickly from light duty stuff that wouldnt stand up to huge high end professional quality equipment with not a lot in between.
 
#32 ·
Check out the Jet JPS-30. Great features/great price. Dados on table saws are real finger killers unless you know what your doing, and your setting up to make furniture. Pain in the butt setting them up. For making beekeeping equipment buy a good router and bench, thats really all you need. Then your set up to knock stuff out.
 
#36 ·
I picked one up last week. I haven't had a chance to put it through its paces yet, but I think it is weakest as a table saw...the other functions don't seem to suffer for being a combo tool. I would not want one as my only tablesaw.
the speed control mechanism is clever. Very well built...better than one would expect for a.combo tool.
Deknow
 
#37 · (Edited)
At the shop I use heavy duty equipment. at home I use a RIGID 10" direct drive table saw,
it tilts the right way, has a great locking fence, 110 volt. miter it comes with is great.
its the middle of the road on the light side. It folds for storage and is quite powerful for
the price of 499.00 at H.D.
If you use a good carbide blade, you will love this great table saw.
 
#38 ·
Mythomane, I just did a search for those cords but am not coming up with anything from "Common" sources. I do know for a fact they exist. They will give you a hernia trying to lug one around though. they even come in dryer outlet or range outlet configurations (there is a difference in the outlets).

I work for a University and having 220 power is as common as 110. and they go up from there with there power supplies. I see the 220 v cords all over the place. They are not intended for permanent power any more than any other cord. but they do exist and are used on any outlet that has 220 v.

In fact next time you are in the extension cord isle look for the replacement cord ends you will find one style that has one of the prongs sideways. That is a 220v cord end for a regular size extension cord. walk around in some buildings and you will see outlets that allow a regular plug end or one of these sideways ones to fit. plug in a wayside pronged cord and you are hooked up to 220 volts. It is not common for most people to ever need that so most don't even know about it. Not a lot of people own much that requires 220 volts to operate.
 
#39 · (Edited)
Daniel Y;730933 I work for a University and having 220 power is as common as 110.[/QUOTE said:
I don't doubt they have power like that at universities. Or factories or such. They have R&D and EXPERIMENTS to conduct. I bet the OSHA guy is not coming around checking the molecular accelerator every day, though. If they did nothing would ever be invented, let alone built. As far as construction, which is what I was talking about -- it is nice to have access like that if you are remodeling and I have a very few times needed access to voltage like that, but for construction purposes it is usually overkill or unnecessary. I have very few portable 220v tools. I have had to plug in a jackhammer to 220v more than once, but it has a very long cord anyway. And let me say I stand corrected on the fact that they do sell them online. Looks like I was wrong. I do not think I will be buying one though (thanks for the link, Barry) as its $400 for the 6/4 cord plus shipping, plus the ends you need. In my defense all you are really buying here is bundled wire. You are making the cord up yourself. Almost every crew I know has cut into an extension or we have had to work in the rain, etc. That is a lot of amps feeding through there. I just can't think of what I would hook up to it that I would need, unless it was Mafell/Euro stuff for a specialized tool. It would be easier just to use the generator which I have around anyway or my step-up transformer. I guess it would be nice to have for a rainy day -- if it wasn't raining.
 
#46 ·
I bet the OSHA guy is not coming around checking the molecular accelerator every day, though.
This is a very common assumption. In fact the fire department has three full time inspectors just for the University. OSHA has one full time inspector just for us, We have our own EH&S department that is housed in a three story building. And yes we do get dinged by OSHA. Last fine I heard of was $50,000 for a missing blade guard on a table saw no less.

In the medical and science departments they play with some of those things that horror movies are made of. We have a couple of the highest level health risk labs. I had to go in one the other day to do some work. you have to wear special clothes and gloves. then nothing that went in the room can come out. Not the clothes, not the broken equipment, not even the paper towel you washed your hands with after removing the gloves (Mandatory). It is all left in a bin in the room and burned. Lets just say in that place you do not trip and knock anything over. Lots of fun at times.
 
#40 ·
Mythomane; think welding, 220 volt table saws, pumps, etc, etc, etc, etc,. Ever do any commercial construction? Ever try to build a steel structure without welding? Every temporary power pole we put on a job has 220 available, residential or commercial, and inspected by the building department before they will turn power on. And the vast majority of our inspectors in FL are retired builders, electricians, plumbers, civil engineers. BTW, thank you Barry for the links. I usually just have my electrician provide or make up the extensions and pay him megadollars for them! ;)
 
#41 · (Edited)
I am sure there is all kinds of stuff that you need to build a walmart. That is not really my area of expertise, and I am not sure what that has to do with table saws. It was not my intent to get in a war over extension cords. My wife has just informed me that I am being insane and wasting my time. She is probably right. That said, my point was they are not readily available off the rack for common sense reasons which I have already laid out. I only know any of this because I wanted one a few years ago and had to splice one up, but ended up just using the generator. It was to run a giant hobart mixer in my backyard. Don't ask. Merry Xmas!

Here is a welding thread about the subject for anyone who cares:

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=11537
 
#42 ·
You can turn any 120V rated extension cord into 240V just change the plug and output plug for proper 240 plug assumong you observe current capacity (thickness, gauge)

Assuming you carry the same power, 240 V device cord will draw HALF the current of equvalent 120 device of same power. So 240 cord will carry LESS current and need nor to be as thick (gauge) as same power carrying 120V cord.

Commercial "240 V" cords are priced outregiously high taking adventage of common ignorance among public.

Remember the electric conduit in the walls (house wiring) contains of various thickness of the wire (gauge 14, 12 10 etc) according to the CURRENT of circuit/fuse capacity NOT the VOLTAGE.

Same KIND wire is used for both 120V and 240 circuits thickness (gauge) is dependent on current flow value (Amps) not the voltage (Volts).
 
#45 ·
I was in the same boat 4 years ago, I have a 20 inch grizzly planner and am plenty happy with than, I wanted a better than average table saw but not a $1500 dollar model. I went with the powermatic 120 v , it was about $750 . Great fence nice to be able to lightly lock it in place and not worry about the cut. I didn't want the big heavy cast model wanted to be able to roll it around. Couldn't be happier
 
#48 ·
My old Craftman has seen better days as well and I am also shopping for a new saw. Every time I get ready to pull out my wallet I think better of it and go get that blade sharpened again. Thing is I cannot seem to spend the money to get my cheap Vermont Dato “high speed” stack sharpened. I have cut a lot of Oak with the saw and it is getting tired. I upgraded the fence to a Delta fence, put melamine router table in the extended distance, and built a roll around. I hate to start over $1000 down and with fewer items. BTW the industrial power is 3 phase 208 volt and when we are building we run “spider boxes” 120/208 50 amps (like in the attached link, http://cepnow.com/?p=383 ) but we are not cutting studs and installing cabinets.
 
#52 ·
Just some info for many that woudl not kow. Carbide tip blades seldom become dull. They become dirty far more often than they dull. Try cleaning them up before you toss them and see if it does not restore their ability to cut.
 
#54 · (Edited)
A good place to get a good, table, radial arm, or miter saw, is to constantly check Craig's List. Lots of people get into woodworking, buy good stuff, never really use it, and will take a pitance just to get it out of the garage. I have 8 table saws, 4 thickness planers, one radial arm. All but one, bought from Craig List adds. There are literally hundreds listed on Nashville and Louisville Craigs List. Very cheap, never got a bad one.

To see what is available, go on Craigs List, click on Nashville or Louisville, (or whatever big city is near you) then click on tools. Then type in the search for saw and look what comes up.

Before someone asks why I have so many, Each saw is dedicated to an operation, no changing fence, or thickness on the planers.

cchoganjr
 
#57 ·
#61 ·
I'm new to the wood working thing, but did a fair amount of research and settled on this
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW744X...=UTF8&qid=1356229189&sr=8-1&keywords=dw744xrs
I'd suggest against the table saw listed. It's a very nice saw, and Dewalt products are usually well built, but for that money you can get something much better.

Here is a good guide to reading up on different types of table saws, their pros and cons: http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f12/...ns-making-sense-all-choices-part-1-3-a-43321/

What you have listed is a portable job site saw. Generally, it's good to use those when you are in transit alot, you need to toss a table saw into the bed of your truck and move on to the next site. If you are planning on having it be more stable, get a more stable table saw. More sturdy = safer, more predictable cuts, more accurate cuts.

Here is a good one that is in the same price range: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...aa5183&cj=true&cm_mmc=CJ-_-5738583-_-11210757

Much more sturdy, much better fence system. It will take up much more space though. If space is of prime importance and you don't care about the accuracy of the cuts (or the safety of the saw) then you are better off going with a $100-200 bench top saw.

Personally, I went with a cheapo $150 bench top saw to start with. I saw the folly in my actions (and cheapskateness) and went the much further route and now got a steel city cabinet saw: http://www.toolking.com/steel-city-35950g-10-inch-granite-top-cabinet-saw?CAWELAID=1410675964

But, to each their own.
 
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