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What to do with drawn frames?

8K views 22 replies 10 participants last post by  Mr.Beeman 
#1 ·
Do you guys keep your drawn out frames that aren't being used for next year, or do you use new foundation each year like fat bee man recommends? I don't like all the warning labels on the PDB, don't really like the idea of using it on supers that my kids will be eating from. But it seems like a big waste to scrape all that wax from drawn foundation.
 
#2 ·
So FatBeeman starts from scratch each year? Bees have to rebuild all their comb? That must make for a major hit on his honey yield. I probably have comn that is 20 years old and still being used every year. Guess I'm a deadman.....
 
#7 ·
I can tell ya what not to do, do not just bring in the house, I had one hive fail, took the frames of drawn comb out and brought everything in the house, and after a few days, well maybe a week or better, I had myself quite a few Wax Moth larvae enjoying themselves, those nasty thangs, I recommend taking the frames of comb freeze em for a bit and store them. Probably in the shed, in the hive body an offset them as you stack em. Unless you like watching those nasty maggot looking things eat away your frames and everything else that come in contact with. shewwww
 
#8 ·
On a small scale I would recommend freezing them for 48 hours then taking them out and turning them on their side in the sun... not close together so the breeze can blow through them... this works... well... pretty good.
 
#15 ·
If you only have a few hives, place five spaced frames in each super,(or deep brood chamber) and stand super on the end. Stack the supers. Only down side with this method is that you need more supers because you are only putting 5 frames in each one. Let the bees clean the supers before stacking, or in my case, I just let the bees come into the shed and continue cleaning as they wish.

As long as there is adequate light between frames, wax months do not bother them. If you don't have that many empty supers, any way you can space them in the light will work. One option is to build a small rack to hold frames in the light.

cchoganjr
 
#17 ·
besides bees i am a refer mechanic,a refer is designed to maintain cargo temperature, hot or cold. it takes a lot longer to solidly freeze a load than you would think. you need to load on pallets to allow air circulation. a canvas air tunnel on the trailer roof helps. in warm weather a full load in cardbooard boxes, food in plastic cups, can take up to a week to freeze solid. plan on something like a gallon an hour of diesel if running wide open continous run. a few pallets of empty frames in supers would be real frozen in a day or so thes time of year in the northern US.
 
#19 ·
I now have all my drawn frames in supers and hive bodies stacked and separated with bed slats (I use whatever I have on hand :rolleyes:) and a few small boards like 2x3's. Put another couple spacers on top of the top box and put the lid on. Fresh air and cold temps keep everything nice and dandy, dry and moth-free. :D
 
#21 ·
how long it takes to freeze up a load solid depends on the outside temperatures and how directly the cooled air can contact the frames. if it is 80 degrees F., it takes a lot longer than if it is 40 degrees F. outside. if the load is in shrink wraped boxes it takes a lot longer. at say 55 degrees out side and the load is only half what will fit in the trailer it should be frozen solid in a day or so. so maybee25 gallons at $4 would be $100 at most. the load air temperature will be down to frozen food range [10 degrees ] in less time, a few hours, the unit will then idle and save some fuel. yes it costs money to run a refer.
 
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