Cold Processed Soap
The easiest basic recipe for cold processed soap and one I started with is:
24 oz. olive oil
24 oz. coconut oil
38 oz. palm oil
12 oz. sodium hydroxide
32 oz. distilled water
Here is a website that lists various suppliers of sodium hydroxide specifically for cold processed soap. You may be able to find 100% lye at a hardware store, just be make sure it is pure 100% lye.
http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/coldprocesssoapmaking/a/lyesources.htm
If you want to create your own cold processed soap recipe you'll need to use a lye calculator (if you don't already understand SAP values and such). Here is the one I like the best (just insert the oils you'll be using it gives the amount of water and lye necessary for saponification).
http://www.thesage.com/calcs/lyecalc2.php
Note: beeswax is on their list. Just enter the number of ounces in the box for each ingredient you intend to use and than calculate. Stay small with the beeswax though.
Beeswax in cold processed soap can be tricky. Beeswax makes soap harder (which is good) but diminishes lather. It also causes soap to heat up while it is saponifying and can cause a type of "soap" eruption. On page 6 of this pdf it talks a little about using beeswax in cp soap
http://www.tonitoni.org/soap/soap_the_bare_bones.pdf
The higher % of beeswax in your soap the more likely to have an eruption.
Honey is awesome in soap. I've heard honey leaches but to avoid that problem I mix mine with distilled water and it has never been an issue.
Honey colors a bar of soap naturally. I used it in this bar and it turned out a beautiful tan color as oppose to creamy white
http://soappixie.blogspot.com/2010/10/natural-colorant-follow-up.html
I use 2 oz of honey mixed with .5 oz of distilled water (helps it blend well) in a 2-3 lb batch of soap.
As for Lotion:
There are tons of recipes on the internet, some of which I've experimented with and love. Here is a favorite:
This one contains beeswax:
http://www.naturalbeautyworkshop.com/my_weblog/2008/12/rainforest-flow.html
This one is as basic as you get:
http://www.wabisabibaby.com/blog/2008/how-to-make-an-all-natural-lotion-with-only-3-ingredients/
Toss in some beeswax (about a tsp) and you'll have a good lotion.
General rule for formulating is:
12% oil phase
6% emulsifier
80% water
preservative (check with manufacturer)
1-3% essential oil (fragrance - check with manufacturer)
"The backyard beekeeper" by Kim Flottum has a basic cream recipe in it using beeswax.
Some recipes will say you can use beeswax as an emulsifier but my advice would be to avoid that. If the water and oil combine using beeswax, it is usually temporary. I've not had any luck with that. Beeswax & honey as additives for skin care are awesome but I always use a natural emulsifier to combine my oils and water.
Here is a beeswax lotion recipe that doesn't contain water (so no preserving necessary). But... without water it will feel greasy.
http://asonomagarden.wordpress.com/2011/09/19/how-to-make-an-easy-beeswax-lotion/
Here is a write up on formulating:
http://www.glenbrookfarm.com/makinglotions.htm
Any time you use a preservative and rely on it as such, you should have it lab tested. I don't use synthetic preservatives in the products we use at home. I only make small amounts so that we can use it quickly enough that we don't worry about bacterial growth. We oftentimes keep our products refridgerated without any preservative (in which case we must use the product up in a couple weeks). If I use GSE (natural) to preserve it we will keep it on the shelf (not in the bathroom) no longer than a couple months and ALWAYS use from a pump so we aren't inserting dirty fingers. Manufacturers will tell you what percentage of synthetic preservative to use in your product but if you intend to use it on others you should have it tested to make sure the preservative is effective. (Note: just because you can't see the bacteria doesn't mean it isn't there. Years ago I read that I could scrape the mold off the top and continue using the product. That is absolutely untrue. The microbes are invisible but still very unhealthy).
There is a book on the market by Donna Maria Coles called "Making Aromatherapy Creams & Lotions". In it Donna writes in depth about lotion & cream making plus includes numerous recipes.
If you want something nourishing for the skin that is super easy to make using beeswax and/or honey and avoids preservatives, try solid lotion bars. This one has a very basic, good recipe:
http://www.easternmobeekeepers.com/content/presentations/Lotion.pdf
Note: You can always substitute oils for other oils. The difference is going to be absorption rate and benefits. Some oils are greasier than others and some take a longer time to absorb into the skin. You can also substitute waters. Instead of distilled water you can use hydrosols. If you are using glycerin that would count as part of the water phase.
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